oil leak!!!

**denegrader** · 05-15-2011, 11:31 PM

Now after monitoring my oil leak probably not the rear main seal i say im at 500 miles and not yet 1/2 qt. used yet
guestimating it to be about 1,000 miles needing 1 qt.
now how bads this?
Now i do believe it is the oil pan after all after wiping it and seeing little seep drops mostly at the rear pan area.
Dont think its rear main seal cause wouldn't it be all over clutch?
Well got buyers remorse now.
This thing has started bickering between me and significant other as she put deposit w/out asking me if she should.
My strategy always was look at a car leave think about it period.
Well on the spot her and lady owner quiet as i abandoned my strategy to avoid another argument, i also declined to look at car but since she already put down deposit complicated things.
Now it sits in carport at the heart of our fued.
i figured at 74,000 miles judging by rest of car would ve been like new.
Now is it cause these LS1'S are only a 3 year old design compared to a 5.0 engine and all bugs were never worked out???
Now i find out lotta oil leak issues w/ these ls'1s???

Im in a pickle!!!
Her mech said oil pan gasket.
I priced it here in cali said 5 hours labor $781.00 out the door.
Question - back to ole 240 k mile 5.0 @ sell the beauty or
Bite the bullet pay for pan gasket sell the ole 5.0??????
Sell it and realize a 10 year old used car will always need something.
????

wat you guys think any thing?

**mark21742** · 05-16-2011, 05:30 AM

If its not that bad and you don't forget to keep checking on your oil level you should be able to put it off for awhile. I'm betting that its not your rear main looking, but its your pan gasket where it meets up with the rear cover

**denegrader** · 05-16-2011, 08:09 AM

well looks like near the back at the back of pan where it meets the r.m.s. cover.
a mech stated pan gasket. bolts are tight.
i aint even checked labor hours here in cali for that,
it seems to be about 1/2 qt 500 miles.
a real bitch as even though car looks new and 74,000 miles to me sounds low
aint no gaurantee sumpin aint going out or out ya never know till after ya got the damm thing.
i hate suprises and am on fire!!!!!!

Originally Posted by mark21742

If its not that bad and you don't forget to keep checking on your oil level you should be able to put it off for awhile. I'm betting that its not your rear main looking, but its your pan gasket where it meets up with the rear cover

**pajeff02** · 05-16-2011, 08:23 AM

Originally Posted by mark21742

If its not that bad and you don't forget to keep checking on your oil level you should be able to put it off for awhile. I'm betting that its not your rear main looking, but its your pan gasket where it meets up with the rear cover

^^ This.

Same type of leak that you described. Rear main is completely dry, but the joint between the pan and block is wet -- bolts are tight.

**denegrader** · 05-16-2011, 09:08 AM

nice pic thax ,yeah guess so there is space between to remove the two pan bolts going into the r.m.s. cover?
you can see em with the b.h. still attached?

Originally Posted by pajeff02

^^ This.

Same type of leak that you described. Rear main is completely dry, but the joint between the pan and block is wet -- bolts are tight.

**pajeff02** · 05-16-2011, 09:49 AM

Take out the bottom two bellhousing bolts and then the pan bolts.

**mark21742** · 05-16-2011, 01:59 PM

get a nice size peice of tube steel (1.5"x1.5") and cut it so it can lay acrossed your front shock towers.
suspend your motor from the bar, drop your front suspension and then you can get the pan out

**pajeff02** · 05-16-2011, 03:41 PM

Originally Posted by mark21742

get a nice size peice of tube steel (1.5"x1.5") and cut it so it can lay acrossed your front shock towers.
suspend your motor from the bar, drop your front suspension and then you can get the pan out

What do I attach to on the engine?

**oldmano2z** · 05-16-2011, 04:14 PM

denegrader, you could bolt some chain to the front of pasenger head and pull the power steering pump and chain it there. also turn one makes a pully to replace stock one and you will not have to pull your pully to take off your pump anymore. also the cross member will hold the back up. the pipe deal across the shock towers is a brilliant idea!!!!just goes to show you a bunch of smart people out there!!

**oldmano2z** · 05-16-2011, 04:22 PM

one more thing to relieve some crankcase preasure use a vent at your oil fll tube that will slow the leak also the more it breathes the less it leaks.

**JayTA98** · 05-16-2011, 05:05 PM

Originally Posted by oldmano2z

one more thing to relieve some crankcase preasure use a vent at your oil fll tube that will slow the leak also the more it breathes the less it leaks.

I heard about these breathers. How do they work, where do you get them and it is a plug and play kinda of deal or does something else has to be done to use them?

**mark21742** · 05-16-2011, 05:44 PM

Originally Posted by oldmano2z

denegrader, you could bolt some chain to the front of pasenger head and pull the power steering pump and chain it there. also turn one makes a pully to replace stock one and you will not have to pull your pully to take off your pump anymore. also the cross member will hold the back up. the pipe deal across the shock towers is a brilliant idea!!!!just goes to show you a bunch of smart people out there!!

no I'm just lazy and had to drop the oilpan on my GTO a few times and didn't want to shook everything off the motor to get a few inches of extra room lol

**sutie** · 05-17-2011, 05:57 AM

cargo straps around the headers, attached to a cherry picker, lower the 6 K-member bolts and lower it 4-6 inches, slightly raise the motor....out comes the pan!

**pajeff02** · 05-17-2011, 06:57 AM

^^ I understand that it can be done this way, but it is not something I would ever do on our car.

**sutie** · 05-17-2011, 06:59 AM

under better sercumstances, i wouldnt either...but i make do with what i got!

**oldmano2z** · 05-17-2011, 07:38 PM

I have bought a new oil cap, drilled a hole in it and i bought a small breather element and adapted it to the screw on oil cap for about thirteen dollars. as opposed to fifty dollars for a billet one.that helps with crank case ventalation

**JayTA98** · 05-17-2011, 07:46 PM

Originally Posted by oldmano2z

I have bought a new oil cap, drilled a hole in it and i bought a small breather element and adapted it to the screw on oil cap for about thirteen dollars. as opposed to fifty dollars for a billet one.that helps with crank case ventalation

pics?

**denegrader** · 05-18-2011, 12:05 AM

nice money savin tip thanx ole mano

Originally Posted by oldmano2z

I have bought a new oil cap, drilled a hole in it and i bought a small breather element and adapted it to the screw on oil cap for about thirteen dollars. as opposed to fifty dollars for a billet one.that helps with crank case ventalation

**oldmano2z** · 05-18-2011, 03:51 AM

its wed. i'm still learning to post correctly but today i'll go to advanced auto parts today and get all the part numbers for materials needed to make this vent.

**fxgs** · 05-18-2011, 10:32 AM

Originally Posted by JayTA98

pics?

Not the greatest pic, but I replaced my oil fill cap with a breather and if you look at the left rear of the photo you will see another smaller breather.
This one is attatached to a hose at the rear of the drivers side where the pcv system originated as I have deleted it.