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Thread: New cam

  1. #1
    Snake Eater
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    New cam

    Hi, in about month or so I plan on purchasing this cam http://texas-speed.com/item_detail.asp?ProductID=1272. I have no idea what the lift does and what lsa means.. would this cam be to much for a daily driver? any info regarding would help a lot. thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Redphoenix1998's Avatar
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    That's gonna be a choppy cam and for streetability it'll be alright. I'm running a 230/224 on a 110 and it's choppy as hell!

  3. #3
    member since may 2000 nhraformula's Avatar
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    2000 nhra edition formula

    its a bit much for a daily driver
    2000 nhra edition formula
    a few bolt ons, 379 rwhp
    11.96 @113.25

  4. #4
    Story of My Life!! BIG D's SS's Avatar
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    My buddy has a cam about the same numbers and it has a bad ass lope and pulls hard. Good driveabilty.

  5. #5
    Katech
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snake Eater
    Hi, in about month or so I plan on purchasing this cam . I have no idea what the lift does and what lsa means.. would this cam be to much for a daily driver? any info regarding would help a lot. thanks!
    Lift is basically the distance the cam opens the valve. LSA is Lobe Separation Angle; the distance (in degrees) between the intake lobe and the exhaust lobe. Our torquer cam is an excellent street cam. We installed it in a stock CTS-V and it made +40lb/ft of torque and +14hp on the chassis dyno.

  6. #6
    Snake Eater
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redphoenix1998
    That's gonna be a choppy cam and for streetability it'll be alright. I'm running a 230/224 on a 110 and it's choppy as hell!

    Okay, what do you mean by choppy?

  7. #7
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    Pewter Metallic
    1999 Trans Am

    My cam is a .595/.601 with a 232/236 duration and a 114 lsa. Great for street driving, have no problems with drive-ability at all and I still have the stock stall converter. With the cam and tune I picked up 56 hp and 18 ft/lbs of torque.--Tony

  8. #8
    Impounded eddierox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snake Eater
    Okay, what do you mean by choppy?
    Much like the idle of a hyperventilating Pro Stock or even top fueler.

    Anything under 114 LSA (113,112,110) will require an edit of your computer.
    This is edit is critical and you will blow a motor very quicky if not professionally done.

    If you do not know what you are doing, do not even attempt this swap.
    There is much much more to this than just a cam swap like the good 'ol days.

    The safest way to go is a Z06 cam.
    It will give you up to 50 more HP safely and much much better driveability as if your car came came from the factory this way .. just like a Z06.

    Most of the advice you're going to get here are from hot rod heads who started out exactly like this cam swap .. then go on to spend thousands & thousands of dollars .. ending up turning their daily driver into a Friday night special only waiting to break something expensive ... and this is what this cam will do to your vehicle .. that is after you install the necessary springs, lifters, retainers, heads, modded Throttle Body & MAF, an LS6 manifold, custom exhaust, trans, body & chassis and especially differential reinforcement .... am I forgetting anything?

    I like see'g these modded vehicles for sale for ridiculously high prices disguised as their "labor of love" and it "pains them" to sell it ..

    Total BS .. the car became a nightmare ..

  9. #9
    Snake Eater
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    all right, well i was planning on purchasing cam+any other parts needed from TSP. As well as getting one of their dyno tunes done professionally. Thanks.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Redphoenix1998's Avatar
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    My car isn't that fun to drive on the street. Yeah it sounds badass, I've heard people tell me they thought I was an old 60's chevelle till they saw the car. But it is a pain in the ass to drive. The cam makes great power but starting it when it's cold it takes a bit of cranking. The idle on startup is a little crazy till she warms up.

  11. #11
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    Much like the idle of a hyperventilating Pro Stock or even top fueler.

    Anything under 114 LSA (113,112,110) will require an edit of your computer.
    This is edit is critical and you will blow a motor very quicky if not professionally done.

    If you do not know what you are doing, do not even attempt this swap.
    There is much much more to this than just a cam swap like the good 'ol days.

    The safest way to go is a Z06 cam.
    It will give you up to 50 more HP safely and much much better driveability as if your car came came from the factory this way .. just like a Z06.

    Most of the advice you're going to get here are from hot rod heads who started out exactly like this cam swap .. then go on to spend thousands & thousands of dollars .. ending up turning their daily driver into a Friday night special only waiting to break something expensive ... and this is what this cam will do to your vehicle .. that is after you install the necessary springs, lifters, retainers, heads, modded Throttle Body & MAF, an LS6 manifold, custom exhaust, trans, body & chassis and especially differential reinforcement .... am I forgetting anything?

    I like see'g these modded vehicles for sale for ridiculously high prices disguised as their "labor of love" and it "pains them" to sell it ..

    Total BS .. the car became a nightmare ..
    LOL, I post sometimes to just see what kind of funny respones I get, so eventhough I'm laughing, I agree with you. But, you are almost saying not to mod anything?

  12. #12
    Senior Member Redphoenix1998's Avatar
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    I do agree with Eddierox on a lot of things. For one, I would not want to buy a car with a ton of mods because there is always a missing component ie. engine has 450 rwhp but the tranny and rearend are stock. Well, after a few passes, one is going to break. Or a big cam was installed with no supporting mods in the motor like hardened pushrods and lifters and proper valvesprings. Some guys with big cams run stock springs and wonder why they threw a valve. There are a lot of things that have to go into a cam install. Since you are planning on a big cam, do it right the first time and install dual valve springs with titanium retainers, hardened pushrods and lifters and save yourself a bigger headache

  13. #13
    Snake Eater
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redphoenix1998
    I do agree with Eddierox on a lot of things. For one, I would not want to buy a car with a ton of mods because there is always a missing component ie. engine has 450 rwhp but the tranny and rearend are stock. Well, after a few passes, one is going to break. Or a big cam was installed with no supporting mods in the motor like hardened pushrods and lifters and proper valvesprings. Some guys with big cams run stock springs and wonder why they threw a valve. There are a lot of things that have to go into a cam install. Since you are planning on a big cam, do it right the first time and install dual valve springs with titanium retainers, hardened pushrods and lifters and save yourself a bigger headache
    Well that's pretty much what I plan on doing..

  14. #14
    Local Bum TARZAN's Avatar
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    Cobra, Z28, GN, F250

    I'm cnsidering the Torquer V2 cam....tell us a little about your car, and what EXACTLY you want from it....

    -Will

  15. #15
    Snake Eater
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    Quote Originally Posted by TARZAN
    I'm cnsidering the Torquer V2 cam....tell us a little about your car, and what EXACTLY you want from it....

    -Will
    01 TA:
    magnaflow exhaust
    pacesetter lt's
    tsp ory
    tsp airlid.

    I would like to go sfc's next and then cam. am i missing something?

  16. #16
    Senior Member Redphoenix1998's Avatar
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    Well considering you've got the supporting mods for a cam, might as well get your suspension and chassis going. If I were you though, I would definately start looking into a 12 bolt rear end. As far as suspension, you've got it right with the SFC's. It should come in at top of your list of things to do next. Then you can work with your rear suspension to get you some traction such as LCA's and a panhard rod. But yes look at a rearend

  17. #17
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    mystic teal
    2001 Z28 Hardtop

    Did the guys @ TSP recommend this cam to you? I see you're located in TX, hopefully close to TSP so you can have them tune it once it's in, they'll no doubt have the most experience in calming this stick down to where it is a subdued daily driver. Are you a stick or auto? If you have an auto trans you better plan on adding a higher stall converter along with this cam if you don't already have one. A stick car oughta have something higher than the stock 3.42's in order not to compromise the cams characteristics.

    In summary, it's a good cam choice with the correct tune AND supporting hardware (gears and/or torgue converter). If you're just looking for a starting point for motor mods I'd go somewhat smaller, tamer. TSP got a couple that'll fit that scheme. Just my .02!

  18. #18
    Snake Eater
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbojbob
    Did the guys @ TSP recommend this cam to you? I see you're located in TX, hopefully close to TSP so you can have them tune it once it's in, they'll no doubt have the most experience in calming this stick down to where it is a subdued daily driver. Are you a stick or auto? If you have an auto trans you better plan on adding a higher stall converter along with this cam if you don't already have one. A stick car oughta have something higher than the stock 3.42's in order not to compromise the cams characteristics.

    In summary, it's a good cam choice with the correct tune AND supporting hardware (gears and/or torgue converter). If you're just looking for a starting point for motor mods I'd go somewhat smaller, tamer. TSP got a couple that'll fit that scheme. Just my .02!
    No they didn't recommend it to me, i just took a pick because i'd like a big cam... i've heard a lot of good things about this cam although it is a bit big for daily driving-- many stated they had no problems.. i drive a m6 w/ stock 3.42s..

    should i go with 1.sfc's, 2.cam w/ any other necessary parts +tune, then 3.panhard rod +lca's? thanks all

  19. #19
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    mystic teal
    2001 Z28 Hardtop

    Do you have T-tops, if you do then I'd go w/sfc's....not too expensive and definitely a noticeable difference in aggressive driving scenarios. You have probably heard this before but I'll repeat anyway.....our stock rear ends are very breakable ESPECIALLY in a M6 car. I'm at this junction also, if you are going to launch the car hard in any instance, parking lot burnouts or dragstrip visits, even going thru the gears hard you're on borrowed time as far as rear gear/axle longevity. If you can control your launches (i.e. feather or slip the clutch so as not to shock the drivetrain) then first thing I'd do on a M6 car would be put in a 4.10 ring and pinion set. You might as well get a piggy bank that will hold $2k+ and start saving for that 12 bolt or 9" rear setup. The cam can happen anytime in there but if you are dead set on a larger cam as opposed to a more streetable one then the 4.10's will make that large cam more useable. PHEW............. my hands are CRAMPING!!!!!
    It all depends on how you are going to drive it, if you are going to push it hard, take it to the strip then start thinking rear end BEFORE any of the other suspension control items. If you are going to auto-x then go for the suspension stuff (and a rear end girdle) and a smaller cam. You are lucky in that you live in an area with pretty many performance shops that can do anything you need done. There ain't nottin' hear in middle-TN!

  20. #20
    Impounded eddierox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcamp001
    LOL, I post sometimes to just see what kind of funny respones I get, so eventhough I'm laughing, I agree with you. But, you are almost saying not to mod anything?
    I'm saying you need to mod just about everything once a monster cam is installed.
    When I say do not attempt this if you do not know what you are doing, it means you need to look at every single thing.
    To begin with and most importantly are the rest of the engine internals.
    If the factory wants to install a 600 lift cam at any LSA they would certainly build the engine with say all Eagle forged components to handle the way increased HP.
    But they don't.
    There is no such thing as 400+ HP from the factory .. excepting of course the Z06 which has mods done at the factory such as the big LS6 oil pump to go with its LS6 block that is a much more bullitt proof block.
    The rest of the z06 is also done up properly from the M6 to rearend.

    Now SLP adds their components to the LS1 camaro at the factory but it all adds up to under 400 HP.
    This is why you see such things on an SLP car such as Torsen or Auburn differential in addition to the big SLP exhaust & SLP suspension.
    But notice how you never see an SLP car come from the factory with SLP CAI, MAF, cam & head package, SFC, LCA, Torque Arm & etc. .. they want you to buy it afterwards .. and usually you don't know this until your camaro doesn't run right or needs the extra stuff but most likely when you break something.
    Now once in a great while you see an SLP car come from the factory with over 400 HP .. it is one of the those rare factory SLP with everything on it as described above .. price? about $35k now as I just saw one on ebay.
    Of course it didn't even have one bid but it did have the SLP plaque on the dash and on the front left head designating it as such.
    So the point here is, if the factory does this at an exorbitant price .. this is what you will be doing once you mod ..
    Or you can just live with a car that stresses every single component on it everytime you punch it waiting for something to break ..

    This also means driveability.
    Everyone on here so far has talked about hard cold starting and actually driving a big cam camaro on the street .. it evetually becomes unpleasurable after the initial expected euphoria of the swap.

    .. don't get me wrong about the cam change .. even I adore the looks and sounds of a rappityy cam .. but only at idle .. after that the camaro just wants to blow something up on itself ..

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