Max Rpm

[Phlash_riot]

So i was doing some light reading and found out that we can get our engines to put out 7000RPM... rather we can build them to handle it??? What do you need beside i would assume forged pistons and connecting rods????

What about 6800RPM is that the same or less work?

How high could you get the things? Is it worth it?

Just curiosity killing the cat

[mrr23]

let's see

valvetrain upgrades (valve springs, titatnium retainers, pushrods, lighter valves (not absolutely necessary)
forged crank is nice addition, but not absolute necessity
rod bolts (if you use stock rods)

[Killer_bluebird]

valve springs, titatnium retainers, pushrods are a must. Rod bolts will buy you some extra insurance especially in earlier LS1 as they are known to fail. Run 1/2 quart extra oil. Most spun bearings are due to lack of oiling either during acceleration or High cornering forces.

How high could you get the things? Is it worth it?

I have my limiter set at 7K. Is it worth it? Not on a stock cam.

[LS2Tuner]

So i was doing some light reading and found out that we can get our engines to put out 7000RPM... rather we can build them to handle it??? What do you need beside i would assume forged pistons and connecting rods????

What about 6800RPM is that the same or less work?

How high could you get the things? Is it worth it?

Just curiosity killing the cat

The #1 determining factor is the camshaft..........It will decide if your going to make high rpm horsepower.If you are running a stock cam all your doing is wasting time trying to rev it that high, it's p[ower band is done way before 7000 .......But there is a trade off when you run a "big" cam in a street driving car......You'll need a "loose" convertor not to mention you'll bottom end tq. will be by by.
If it is something you street race alot it can benefit you because your low end tq. is gone which causes tire spin....
That is why with a nitrous grind cam they will loose 35 ft. of tq. to gain 8 h.p. at 6500rpm.

Most people don't know but 95% of the time your gaining more tq. than h.p........So that is creating soooo much low end tq. it doesn't benefit you cause with a street tire or even a 10.5 tire you can't "hook" that much tq.; there fore you run a "big" cam or a Nitrous grind to help bleed off some low rpm cyl. pressure.

Many engine builders have done extensive testing on tit. retainers.......And from researching all there testing I haven't seen proof that it is worth the $......Unless your on a unlimited budget than go for it.Pushrods do flex I've personally seen testing on that and I always spend $ on SmithBrothers....... At least 0.80" wall thickness and if your buzzing the shit out of it or a kit over 200h.p. I'd run 0.120" wall pushrod.
Also if your planning on buzzing it invest in a good set of rockers..
Fordged pistons won't help on the rpm deal thay are actually heavier than a hyp. or cast piston....Rod ratio will help determine max rpm....Basically the longer the rod the easier it is on everything to rpm.
Hope I helped I tried to put it as basic as posible to explain.

[nhraformula]

So i was doing some light reading and found out that we can get our engines to put out 7000RPM... rather we can build them to handle it??? What do you need beside i would assume forged pistons and connecting rods????

What about 6800RPM is that the same or less work?

How high could you get the things? Is it worth it?

Just curiosity killing the cat

a C5 Z06 has a ls1 bottom end and those motors spin up to 6800 i believe.
my car spins up to 6800 also. that rpm is still what alot of people call safe. going higher all bets are off.