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Thread: LS7 Lifter Question
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12-06-2009, 10:23 PM #1
LS7 Lifter Question
What up LS1's. OK I have the LS7 lifters for my 98 LS1. I know they're direct replacements BUT do I need to replace my stock lifter trays??? Can I re-use my stock trays? Thanks.....Also I purchased 7.350 hardened Chromoly Pushrods to compensate for the height difference......
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12-07-2009, 06:12 AM #2
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12-07-2009, 06:18 AM #3
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
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- Shepherd, Michigan
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blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
ok after some research ..i found that no modification needs to be done with the trays..however they are about 6 bucks a piece and since you drive a 98 it would be wise to swap them out as the plastic is almost 12 years old and will be worn out.
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12-07-2009, 08:01 AM #4
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12-07-2009, 08:06 AM #5
Right......yeah, I actually over revved my vehicle about a week before my project started and realized I had not only bent a pushrod (possibly) but also worsened the condition of my springs. When i checked my pushrods one of them seemed a little crooked........also what's the stock rpm we should be able to take our vehicles??? I hear websites say over 6,000. If that's so I'm glad I have the new 224R cam and 918 springs because mine would give out (valve float) around 5900.......
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12-08-2009, 12:26 AM #6
if I remember right stock rev limiters were set bewteen 6,000-6,200.
in a week I'll be spinning mine to 7,500
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12-08-2009, 07:43 AM #7
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12-08-2009, 07:51 AM #8
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
- Location
- Shepherd, Michigan
- Age
- 36
- Posts
- 11,770
blacker than wesleysnipes- 98' trans am
i will try to speak for mark i could be wrong..but a upgraded valve-train is the biggest thing..along with rod bolt ...hardened pushrods, retainers, locks, springs, lifters ...you get the idea..all of those should be addressed in order to rev that high..if not ..you are asking for float and some french kissing between the valve and the piston top
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12-08-2009, 07:59 AM #9
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12-08-2009, 08:24 AM #10
- Join Date
- Feb 2006
- Location
- MD
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- 577
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12-08-2009, 08:36 AM #11
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12-08-2009, 11:03 AM #12
said just like I would have lol
the stock springs and cam run into valve float possibilities as low as 6,200 rpms.
asfar as rod bolts, ordered Katech bolts the other day for $199. the Katechs are a drop in replacement, with the ARP bolts you should/need to have alittle machine work done to the stock rods.
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12-08-2009, 11:11 AM #13
that sounds about right, with my 220/224 .570/.580 112 and ported heads I found it ran best shifting at 6,500.....but I'd think stock heads/intake combo would be dropping off quick by 6,500rpms.
getting everything back together this week/ weekend and want to start on a sheetmetal intake.....that just might give me a few 100 more rpms
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12-08-2009, 11:14 AM #14
only problem with super high rpms is that my tach only goes to 7k lol time for an aftermarket tach too
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12-08-2009, 07:01 PM #15
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12-09-2009, 12:37 AM #16
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12-09-2009, 05:35 AM #17
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12-09-2009, 06:02 AM #18
yes 98-99 are weaker and I'd never recomend anyone to spin 7,000rpms without rod bolts.
now for the honesty......
I was doing the cam, oil pump, timing set upgrade.....while unbolting the pickup tube I dropped not only the bolt, but my 10mm wrench down into the ouk pan.......had to unbolt the oil pan to get the bolt and wrench out.
so, its only 6-8 more bolts to drop the K member and pull the pan completely out at this point.
tes I should have upgraded the bolts anyway, but I'm this far into the job already and would be a fool not to lol
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12-09-2009, 06:08 AM #19
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12-09-2009, 11:21 AM #20
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