LS series LQ9 6.0L cam options

**Gary Willard** · 01-29-2007, 08:42 AM

I know this is an LS1 forum, but I'm having difficulty finding actual LQ9 links.
I just purchased an LQ9 6.0L LS series V-8 and I would like to switch cams. I don't intend to race this thing, but I want it to run decent. I know NOTHING about cams and simply want to swap it out for something that will give me a decent sounding lope, but yet keep it streetable. Any detailed suggestions would be appreciated. Links to the 6.0L LQ9 engine mod's would also be helpful.
Thanks in advance,
Gary

**mrr23** · 01-29-2007, 11:10 AM

the LQ9 motor is still based on the LS series GEN III motors. so, cams for the LS motors are the same as the LQ motors. is this going in the olds?

**Gary Willard** · 01-30-2007, 06:11 AM

As the owner of an Olds' I'm a little ashamed to say "yes" I'm planting a Chevy engine under it's hood. I'd love to keep it all Olds, but I couldn't pass up 345 HP and 380 ft/lbs of torque AND all accessories from a 2000 mile engine, wiring harness, and computer for $1500.00 (with warranty). My budget drove the decision. I'm thinking that I'll be very happy with it though!!

**Gary Willard** · 01-30-2007, 06:12 AM

Talking LS cams then, do you have any input as to what cam set up I should be looking into?
Gary

**fourohsicks** · 01-30-2007, 06:29 AM

comp cam 281 xer.I also have an 82 cutlass and I am also puting a 6.0.You will have to notch the frame and use a camaro oilpan.As for mounts use Chevy smallblock mnts with adapters from car shop inc. . com.

**Gary Willard** · 01-30-2007, 08:54 AM

Cool! A fellow Old's guy

I haven't had the chance yet to drop the new engine down in the car yet. In fact, I won't have it in my hands until Friday. I figured I'd make it all fit no matter what. I'm doing a frame off resto on my 83' H/O. From researching, I knew there would be issues. Did the truck oil pan interfere? Where was the frame notching required? I was thinking that I may end up having to notch the frame near the accessories area. I'm a little concerned of my existing hood clearance as well. These engines have a pretty tall intake system on them. I'd like to keep my stock H/O hood if possible. A big road ahead of me, but I know it can be done and I'm dedicated to make it work.

**mrr23** · 01-30-2007, 04:47 PM

something in the 210-220 intake and 218-228 on the exhaust side will do nicely. depending on how big you go, will determine if you need a higher stall converter.

**Gary Willard** · 01-30-2007, 05:35 PM

If I remember right, my stock 83 H/O had a 2600 RPM stall that came with the special 200-4R tranny. Are there any good books on how to change a cam in an LS series engine, or would you suggest having it done? I'v seen them do it a couple of times on the Power TV/Muscle Car show, and it looks like it is a MAJOR ordeal to do in comparison to a good old fashion SBC cam swap. Finding a good book or video reference would be something for me to check into I guess.

**87Z-ya** · 01-30-2007, 05:43 PM

Its in my opinion easier to swap the cam in a ls series engine then the old small block. Where did you get a LQ9 for 1.5k? I would buy one right now for that.

**Gary Willard** · 01-30-2007, 05:56 PM

I got EXTREMELY lucky at Dahmer Power Train, Inc, Lee's Summit, MO. It's a legal transaction too! The company had this engine sitting on the shelf for a while and they are currently starting to stock the shelves with new 07' crate engines. They needed the shelf space and called me (after I was in there looking for an LS1) about going to an LQ9 6.0L H.O. After checking it all out, I found that this was the deal of a life time for me. They started out asking $2850 for it two months ago. It IS a 2000 mile used "GM test" engine, but everything is certified, checked, and warranted (12 mo/12K) with an available 3 year 36K mile warranty for another $300 if desired (from the date of installation). They are a great group of guys down there. I would highly recommend them to anyone. Their LS1's are currently on sale for $3300.

**Mr. Luos** · 01-30-2007, 06:06 PM

Looking for a street cruiser with some power or a cam that will scream at the track??
Maybe I missed it, but what heads? The stock LQ9 heads??

**mrr23** · 01-30-2007, 06:09 PM

Originally Posted by Gary Willard

If I remember right, my stock 83 H/O had a 2600 RPM stall that came with the special 200-4R tranny. Are there any good books on how to change a cam in an LS series engine, or would you suggest having it done? I'v seen them do it a couple of times on the Power TV/Muscle Car show, and it looks like it is a MAJOR ordeal to do in comparison to a good old fashion SBC cam swap. Finding a good book or video reference would be something for me to check into I guess.

it's actually pretty easy, you don't have to remove the heads or intake to swap the cam. here's my webpage back when i did it in the wife's car. i had to pull the heads at the time, so that step you pass up.

http://www.stealthram.com/camswap.htm

**fourohsicks** · 01-30-2007, 06:29 PM

The problem with the truck pan is the sump will have no ground clearance as it is deeper than the f-body pan.http://www.hpsalvage.com/Gbody.html

**Gary Willard** · 01-30-2007, 06:32 PM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

Looking for a street cruiser with some power or a cam that will scream at the track??
Maybe I missed it, but what heads? The stock LQ9 heads??

I'm probably looking for a street cruiser cam that makes the engine sound awesome, but I don't want to "over cam" it to the point where it runs like crap. The heads are stock for the LQ9 6.0L H.O. 345 HP version (Cadillac Escalade/GMC Denalli). I haven't got the engine in my hands, so I can't tell you the casting numbers yet. I'm guessing maybe the 317's.

**fourohsicks** · 01-30-2007, 06:48 PM

I won't have my 6.0 until friday too.That's nuts!

I am going with a carb and msd controller.Oh and the victor jr.I will swap the cam later.Yes it is easy.Easier when the motor is out.Take off the waterpump,timing cover,drain the oil,remove balancer,turn the motor bellyside up remove the oil pan.Then remove oil pump pickup tube from oil pump,remove oil pump remove timing chain and cam retainer reinstall timing chain gear(no chain)turn cam over 3 times(lifters will not go anywhere with engine upside down)remove cam.reverse order and your done.

**Gary Willard** · 01-30-2007, 06:52 PM

Originally Posted by mrr23

it's actually pretty easy, you don't have to remove the heads or intake to swap the cam. here's my webpage back when i did it in the wife's car. i had to pull the heads at the time, so that step you pass up.

http://www.stealthram.com/camswap.htm

That makes it look easy! I'm not sure about "degreeing the cam". Like I said, I'm a cam idiot. I never really figured out the particulars of a cam and how it's changes affect an engine. Yeah, I can take one out and put it back in, but I have no idea how to figure what I would need for what I want. I'll get there

**mrr23** · 01-30-2007, 07:01 PM

with today's technology in cam grinding, degreeing is just for peace of mind. last cam i degreed was off by +1/2*. to get the most out of it, you want to make sure it's dial in right where it's supposed to be. advancing the cam gives you more low mid range, whereas retarding the cam give more mid upper rpms.

now, if you are running a huge cam with a close piston to valve tolerance, it's best to check before ruining some valve and pistons.

**coolingpro** · 01-31-2007, 04:19 PM

I looked at a 99 LS1 today w/ trans, puter, wires - 80k miles. I can buy salvage for $4k. It will be for a 69 Cutlass convert. I will remove oil pan to check for obvious problems. Seems timing set & cam would be worth the investment while its on the stand. Will need to find good tuner shop. Comments welcome.
Dave in Dallas
david@coolingpro.net