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Thread: Heads Question.
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11-17-2013, 03:56 PM #1
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black- 2004 Pontiac GTO
Heads Question.
Anybody use these heads before or know anything about them? They are from Speed Inc
RHS PRO ACTION™ LS Cathedral Port Aluminum Cylinder Heads
Chamber 62cc
Intake runners 225cc
Max lift of .600
intake valve 2.020
exhaust valve 1.600
i read the description and did some searching didnt really find out what i wanted to know. Looking for hp/torque gain info. i know the compression ratio is gonna be higher than a set of 243's. Any info (other than the obvious) would be appreciated.Last edited by black04gto; 11-17-2013 at 03:59 PM.
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11-17-2013, 05:46 PM #2
I was just on the RHS site and do not even see a listing for a cathedral port head. They have an LS7 style rectangular port head for our engines, but that was it -- only one to choose from.
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11-17-2013, 10:43 PM #3
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I ordered them off the Speed Inc website but you can google it and they come up on other sites also such as performanceparts.com
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11-18-2013, 02:55 AM #4
I checked Speed's site after I posted that and did see them. Kind of odd.
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11-18-2013, 06:55 AM #5
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i can explain why you didnt see them on rhs website. they were discontinued.
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11-19-2013, 03:08 AM #6
That makes sense. Any luck on finding an approximate power number?
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11-19-2013, 06:42 AM #7
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11-24-2013, 10:06 PM #8
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Couldnt get Them So I Ended Up Getting A Set From Prc. Stage 2.5 Cnc Ls6 Heads.With 60Cc Combustion chambers
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11-25-2013, 02:23 AM #9
When are you starting on the swap?
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11-25-2013, 04:18 AM #10
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i started Saturday. Got the passenger side done already, doing the driver side today. i dropped one of my new Arp head bolts and it apparently landed in a blackhole in my engine bay. So im on hold till more bolts get here. I ordered some more last night so they will get here late today or tomorrow. Also putting on an Awespeed OTRCAI while im at it. All told im trying to get up near 400rwhp
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11-25-2013, 10:11 AM #11
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
make sure you clean every drop of coolant and grim out of those holes. Trust me I know.....
This time around I'll be installing the heads on the engine stand.
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11-25-2013, 10:38 AM #12
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Wait What Happened
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11-25-2013, 11:38 AM #13
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
this is from coolant in the head bolt hole. I thought I had cleaned all up and must have missed this one.
Anyways it blew a nickle size chunk of aluminum into the crank
this is what else it did.....
#8 cyl
still haven't figured out what this came from but was in the oil pan as well
#7 cyl
#8 piston
#7 piston
plus 3,6,7,8 rod bearings spun, 3 & 6 main bearings spun and gouged the crank.
All of this because I bounced off the rev limiter.....while doing a burn out (long story)
No one every accused me of doing something half ass....Last edited by SMWS6TA; 11-25-2013 at 11:40 AM.
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11-25-2013, 11:41 AM #14
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Holy bawllss!!
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11-25-2013, 11:46 AM #15
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Thread chasers and long q tips are your best friend. Compress air is too. Just make sure those holes are dry and clean.
this isn't like the old SBC's that the bottom holes are in coolant. LS blocks are a completely dry block when it comes to head & intake bolt holes.
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11-25-2013, 11:48 AM #16
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yeah ive been using a thread chaser and cutips like mad to get it dry. didnt know why it was so important but damn.
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11-25-2013, 05:38 PM #17
If there is oil or coolant in the bolt holes it cannot compress as you install the bolt and the pressure build up can crack the block. The service manual warns about this and, as Scott said, make sure the holes are clean and dry before assembly.
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