getting rid of the ls1 tick

**V8MUSCLE** · 11-23-2009, 06:24 AM

when i start my car on cold/colder than 100 degree days i have a godawfull tick till the car warms up. what is the way to go about getting rid of this, cam/lifter swap?

i have heard you cant replace just 1 lifter as the wear patterns would wear the new lifter/cam out very fast. any truth in this?

i do know the car has been above redline. when i first got it, literally, coming home from the dealership, got on it, then my noob ass missed 3rd. WHAAAAAAAAA.

ive had it for a little over 2 years now and it sounds like it is getting worse in the mornings, maybe its just because its getting colder so its more noticeable, but it sounds like its knocking like a son of a bitch for the first 3 minutes.

I have been thinking about doing a cam swap, the 228r from texasspeed. i have done a cam swap before, but i was helping somebody else, so im not 100% sure what all i will need.

i have 140k miles.

**PFM** · 11-23-2009, 06:54 AM

You could have some bent pushrods if when you missed a gear causing your tick.
LS1s have roller cams and can be swapped out and the old lifters reused without worrying about a preworn pattern. What you said is true about non-roller/flat tappet cams.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm is a good site for DIY.

**tatertot91** · 11-23-2009, 06:56 AM

may have a bent pushrods but if its just a tick its probably just lifters
no real cure for lifter tick
You could swap the lifters but you still may end up with the same noise

**tatertot91** · 11-23-2009, 06:57 AM

Originally Posted by PFM

You could have some bent pushrods if when you missed a gear causing your tick.
LS1s have roller cams and can be swapped out and the old lifters reused without worrying about a preworn pattern. What you said is true about non-roller/flat tappet cams.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm is a good site for DIY.

beat me to it

**402 Guru** · 11-23-2009, 01:15 PM

Originally Posted by PFM

You could have some bent pushrods if when you missed a gear causing your tick.
LS1s have roller cams and can be swapped out and the old lifters reused without worrying about a preworn pattern. What you said is true about non-roller/flat tappet cams.
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm is a good site for DIY.

+1 ive seen many people that miss the legendary 2-3 shift then bend a push rod just get a new cam and lifters and pushrods if you go chrome-molly (comp cams) then you can spray the hell out of em or just no adders and have security of a pushrod deflecting and cracking your block the faster you change it the longer your engine will live just in my experience . or u can save up and stroke your block and resleeve it to well over 400+ cubic incles or 383 is the max with out resleeving it

either way Mod-Fever is a awesome thing and you will never regret putting money into your Engine ending everytime you drop the hammer you will see what i mean

**402 Guru** · 11-23-2009, 01:17 PM

if the ticking gets louder when your driving then its your pushrod Now if it ticks when your car is cold its the common lifter tap that most ls1's( stock )have a nice set of chrome molly lifters from comp cams will get that to go away

**bluehawk2000** · 11-25-2009, 12:59 AM

I think he might be talking about the piston chatter, cause I know that when our cars are crunk up at cold the pistons will have alot of play in them until the car is warmed up. So I have read from multiple sites, and he is talking about it going away after it warms up so it might be an over reaction and its just that normal old ls1 cold start sound that every (stock)ls1 has.

**SOMbitch** · 11-25-2009, 09:20 AM

Originally Posted by bluehawk2000

I think he might be talking about the piston chatter, cause I know that when our cars are crunk up at cold the pistons will have alot of play in them until the car is warmed up. So I have read from multiple sites, and he is talking about it going away after it warms up so it might be an over reaction and its just that normal old ls1 cold start sound that every (stock)ls1 has.

^^^^yep. If it goes away it is piston slap. VERY common in these motors. My 5.3 has it the LS1 does not. Don't sweat it. 196K and going strong on my 5.3

Bent PR will not go away when warm.

Usually a collapsed lifter gets WORSE as the engine heats up and oil thins out....

**bluehawk2000** · 11-27-2009, 01:55 PM

Originally Posted by SOMbitch

^^^^yep. If it goes away it is piston slap. VERY common in these motors. My 5.3 has it the LS1 does not. Don't sweat it. 196K and going strong on my 5.3

Bent PR will not go away when warm.

Usually a collapsed lifter gets WORSE as the engine heats up and oil thins out....

And if I am also correct that happens with forged motors to you will hear a piston slap till the motor warms up and the pistons can expand back to conform to the walls of the cylinders. It is just like alot of other things when its hot or cold metal shrinks and expands. My trans am does it here for about 5 mins or so of running during the summer that is until its warm and then its gone after its warmed up never really worried about it.

**SOMbitch** · 11-27-2009, 03:49 PM

Originally Posted by bluehawk2000

And if I am also correct that happens with forged motors to you will hear a piston slap till the motor warms up and the pistons can expand back to conform to the walls of the cylinders. It is just like alot of other things when its hot or cold metal shrinks and expands. My trans am does it here for about 5 mins or so of running during the summer that is until its warm and then its gone after its warmed up never really worried about it.

^^^^^^ Yep......not uncommon....^^^^^^^

**BlackSS1** · 11-27-2009, 09:25 PM

Originally Posted by V8MUSCLE

when i start my car on cold/colder than 100 degree days i have a godawfull tick till the car warms up. what is the way to go about getting rid of this, cam/lifter swap?

i have heard you cant replace just 1 lifter as the wear patterns would wear the new lifter/cam out very fast. any truth in this?

i do know the car has been above redline. when i first got it, literally, coming home from the dealership, got on it, then my noob ass missed 3rd. WHAAAAAAAAA.

ive had it for a little over 2 years now and it sounds like it is getting worse in the mornings, maybe its just because its getting colder so its more noticeable, but it sounds like its knocking like a son of a bitch for the first 3 minutes.

I have been thinking about doing a cam swap, the 228r from texasspeed. i have done a cam swap before, but i was helping somebody else, so im not 100% sure what all i will need.

i have 140k miles.

If you do the cam swap, check out www.ls1howto.com for step by step instructions. I was new to internal engine work, and this guide led me right through the install including what to get prior. The 228R is a great street cam, I have it and love it.

**bluehawk2000** · 11-28-2009, 01:32 AM

Originally Posted by BlackSS1

If you do the cam swap, check out www.ls1howto.com for step by step instructions. I was new to internal engine work, and this guide led me right through the install including what to get prior. The 228R is a great street cam, I have it and love it.

whats the specs on your cam and have you dyno'd?

**BlackSS1** · 11-28-2009, 04:30 AM

Originally Posted by bluehawk2000

whats the specs on your cam and have you dyno'd?

Here is the thread on the project, dyno chart, video of idle, etc:

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116636

It made 380 RWHP and 370 RWTQ with stock heads, headers, catback, lid, tune. Specs are 228/228 .588/.588 on a 113LSA.

**bluehawk2000** · 11-28-2009, 09:53 AM

Originally Posted by BlackSS1

Here is the thread on the project, dyno chart, video of idle, etc:

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116636

It made 380 RWHP and 370 RWTQ with stock heads, headers, catback, lid, tune. Specs are 228/228 .588/.588 on a 113LSA.

Sweet man I appreciate it