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  1. #1
    Senior Member 01ws6er's Avatar
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    Oct 2007
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    The 717
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    36
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    2,471

    Red
    2001 Trash Can

    Couple of questions before putting motor together

    1.) Best way to find TDC?

    2.) After finding TDC, I guess I can align my cam dot to dot (not checking ICL with degree wheel)?

    3.) I blew out all of my head bolt holes with air and got all of the dirt and gunk that I could out, is there anything else I need to do to make sure they're clean and dry?

    4.) The info Comp sends with their cam and lifters says NOT to use synthetic oil during break in? The shortblock is used, the cam and lifters are new, so should I just use a cheapo oil for break in and then switch to the Penzoil Platinum that I normally use?

    5.) i somehow stripped 1 oil pan bolt when torquing them down, will a tap and die do the trick or should I silicone that sucker and hope it doesn't leak?

    6.) Is it really necessary to install the balancer by torquing the old bolt 1st to 240 ft.lbs, then installing the new bolt and torquing to 37 ft.lbs, and then angle torquing it 240 deg?

    7.) What beer should I drink this next coming weekend while working on the car?

    ...I'm sure I'll have more ??? so subscribe!!!

  2. #2
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    mercersburg pa
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    6,443

    hugger orange
    2004

    1.)Best way to find top end center is with a degree wheel (crank dot will be pointed strait up)

    2.) After finding TDC, you can align my cam dot to dot with the crank, but using a degree wheelis the best method

    3.)the head bolt holes should be fine, ijust use a fine wire brush to clean the gasket surface on the block and heads

    4.) I'd use lots of assembly lube on the cam and lifters....(roller cam I take it). run conventional oil at first, then first oil change go back to synthetic

    5.) use a tap and die on the oil pan bolt

    6.) to reinstall the balancer, I used my original bolt with fresh red locktite, used the impact to get it tight, then 24" breaker bar to get it as tight as possible

    7.) Keystone light 30 pack is a great cheap "work in the garage "
    beer
    good luck man, have fun!

  3. #3
    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Orange County, NY
    Age
    48
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    2,693

    always dirty
    2013 Ram 2014 Caddy ATS

    If the tap and die doesnt work you could throw in a helicoil.

  4. #4
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    jacksonville
    Posts
    11

    Pewter
    2001 Chevrolet Camaro SS

    I would get a degree wheel kit from comp cams and use the piston stop to find top dead center. Depending on what you PTV clearance is if ure off you could have some problems. Also degreeing the cam is always a good idea, youve gone this far you might as well take 20 min and make sure its dialed in correct to get the most of it. Comp has a read up on their website that explains everything. Very easy and straight forward.

  5. #5
    Member side2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    md
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    861

    red
    2000 camaro ss

    all the info has been good. if you are trying to get out of degreeing your cam, that's not a good idea. cams are ground wrong all the time, and the only way to tell is to degree it. if a cam is off enough, it wont run right. if it's off just a few degrees on either side your car will run fine, but your power numbers/redline will be outta wack and you won't know what the hell is wrong with your car, be angry that LS1's suck, and think the guy tunin your car is a knucklehead. good rule of thumb: each degree is 10 hp and 100 rpm off what you should have. that is devestating.

    degree it

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