Which cam is right for me?

[Same ol Situation]

I'm currently in the process of buying performance parts for my ws.6, with the intent of having them put on(professionaly) all at once. I will be buying a cam, but i must admit that i dont know enough details to make that purchase by myself. If anybody could guide me in the right direction to a cam that makes good power but isnt ungodly loud i would be ever so grateful.

P.S. this cam will be going on my car with qtp longtubes and a TSP true dual with moroso spiral flow mufflers.

[mark21742]

If you don't know what you want, Il go out on a limb and suggest a 228 .590-.600" lift on a 112 lsa

[Same ol Situation]

What kind of a sound would that produce?

[mark21742]

It would give you a good little pope, and have decent street manners with a tune

[ibanez7]

you are leaving too many variables on the table...
such as future plans mods/build.
driving style and use?
etc...

if you want to go the easy route, I would suggest these two size cams

224/224
224/228

both with a 114 or 116 lsa. dont go 112 lsa, 112 lumps rough at idle and screams race car

http://www.speedinc.com/catagory.cfm...ory=Valvetrain / Heads

the SI-1, through 3 maybe 4 if you want more aggressive and its not a DD. I have the SI5 my car is a garage king.. only driven for racing, shows and fun

if you go lower then 114 like a 112 or 110 then your car will idle more rough and sound more like a race car. 116 or 118 will keep your car fairly smooth.

[TA98]

112 lumps rough at idle and screams race car

and its great... although not for everyone

[ibanez7]

and its great... although not for everyone

agreed!!!!

[Same ol Situation]

you are leaving too many variables on the table...
such as future plans mods/build.
driving style and use?
etc...

if you want to go the easy route, I would suggest these two size cams

224/224
224/228

both with a 114 or 116 lsa. dont go 112 lsa, 112 lumps rough at idle and screams race car

http://www.speedinc.com/catagory.cfm...ory=Valvetrain / Heads

the SI-1, through 3 maybe 4 if you want more aggressive and its not a DD. I have the SI5 my car is a garage king.. only driven for racing, shows and fun

if you go lower then 114 like a 112 or 110 then your car will idle more rough and sound more like a race car. 116 or 118 will keep your car fairly smooth.

Well i just picked up another car for daily driving, so as of now my trans am is garage kept and not driven everday. I dont plan to put head on for sometime so just a cam only car, for now.

My goal is just to have a cam that produces a good, choppy sound, but not to the point were the engine almost shuts off, and one that has good top end power throughout the rpms.

[mark21742]

Now my 238/242 112lsa was a bit much when I had my stock short block, but I still dd the goat 50 miles a day... had a 220/224 112 lsa before that and it was too small for my taste

[ls1wallen]

228R all the way! Frost told me its easy to tune and makes great power. At 112 lsa it will have the sound you want.

This is my car

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YeSuW8IiQXY[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z95Npx5gBT4[/ame]

[35th-ANV-SS]

Taking a video of a car in a small, enclosed garage is not going to produce the best sound quality or reproduce the sound as it would be out in the open. Just something to think about OP.

Agreed with what everyone else is saying, you need to provide more information.

You make it sound as if you are more worried about sound then performance, which is not the scope of why people get an aftermarket cam to begin with.

You mentioned you just want a cam only car "for now". What is later? Anything?

[Same ol Situation]

LS1wallen, how loud is your car in real life? Sounded great in the video but sometimes its hard to tell how loud a car is from the sound distortion of the video camera.

[35th-ANV-SS]

Also, I would suggest buying the following as well...
- springs
- oil pump
- push rods
- timing chain

[Same ol Situation]

Taking a video of a car in a small, enclosed garage is not going to produce the best sound quality or reproduce the sound as it would be out in the open. Just something to think about OP.

Agreed with what everyone else is saying, you need to provide more information.

You make it sound as if you are more worried about sound then performance, which is not the scope of why people get an aftermarket cam to begin with.

You mentioned you just want a cam only car "for now". What is later? Anything?

Yes...I would love to do both, but i just dont feel like dropping another grand on a set of heads, so maybe a few years down the road from now. As far as being more worried about sound then performance i would say im worried about both equally. I just really want the added performance of a cam with that good cammed ls1 sound.

[ibanez7]

is your car an A4 or M6??

also how often do you launch hard? or drag race on sticky tires?

when would you maybe buy a rearend for the car?

These three things will make a huge difference on what cam to get.

if you have an A4, you want a cam that matches your stall. If you have an m6 get more open to what cams you buy, but you take a larger chance of nuking your 10 bolt rearend.

Hence more HP, means new rearend sooner!

[ls1wallen]

That was taken on a cell phone so it doesnt really matter where i take it. It will still sound like crap. I dont have a video camara. I have the texas speed true duals with bullet mufflers. At idle it has a very deep choppy sound. At WOT its ear bleeding loud.

Like others have said dont buy a cam for sound. Remmber a cam is the heart of your engine. If you plan on changing your cam other things must be built around it.

I picked this cam because so many have it. Its a proven power maker.

[Same ol Situation]

is your car an A4 or M6??

also how often do you launch hard? or drag race on sticky tires?

when would you maybe buy a rearend for the car?

These three things will make a huge difference on what cam to get.

if you have an A4, you want a cam that matches your stall. If you have an m6 get more open to what cams you buy, but you take a larger chance of nuking your 10 bolt rearend.

Hence more HP, means new rearend sooner!

My car is an m6, and i would say i launch it from a dead stop about once a year....car is purely for the street.

[ibanez7]

with that being said, i highly recommend the SI5 from speed inc.
231/237 590/595 lift and 112 lsa

it sounds mean, makes great HP and TQ.. Its alot of fun in an M6..

just realize, being an m6 car, your already on borrowed time with the stock 10 bolt.

if you want to be alittle more on the safe and tame side, go with a 228/228

[Same ol Situation]

ok...any input or feedback on the moser 9in??

[35th-ANV-SS]

I have the Moser 9" TrueTrac with 4.11 gears and 31 spline axles. No issues and I shift my car hard. Rest of mods in sig.