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Thread: cam and heads

  1. #1
    Member SSMOKEshow's Avatar
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    cam and heads

    what do you think of this cam mti x1 230/227 591/571 112 lsa ihave full exhaust ,lid, and its an m6 also what heads do you think i should go with with this cam thanx

  2. #2
    Visualize°Design°Create SSwt00SS's Avatar
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    '18 CTS-V
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    why are you wanting to run a reverse-split cam? these cams need to breathe, esp. on the exhaust side...

    what are your performance goals?

  3. #3
    Member SSMOKEshow's Avatar
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    whats a reverse spit its not my car it my buddys so idk im just trying to help him

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    Visualize°Design°Create SSwt00SS's Avatar
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    '18 CTS-V
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSMOKEshow View Post
    whats a reverse spit its not my car it my buddys so idk im just trying to help him
    A reverse split pattern cam is just a cam with more intake duration than exhaust duration. Which is why it needs a good efficient exhaust system to expell the gases since more air is entering versus a splint pattern cam.

    there are 3 types of cam patterns, examples are below:

    Single pattern:
    224/224 .581/.581 112 lsa

    Split pattern:
    224/228 .525/.540 112 lsa

    Reverse Pattern:
    228/224 .540/.525 112 lsa

    Each type has their own advantages and disadvatages, respectively. Most people run the split pattern cam.

    However for example, I chose to run a single pattern cam in my SS. Your friend needs to find out what his goals are with his build and then research what parts will work best together to help meet his performance goal(s).

    I wont even get started on head selection or intake selection for you at this time...

  5. #5
    Member SSMOKEshow's Avatar
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    well his car is a weekend driver and he only plans to do a head and cam package but he doesnt know what to do he just bought that cam b/c he got a deal on it what do you think he should go with

  6. #6
    Visualize°Design°Create SSwt00SS's Avatar
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    '18 CTS-V
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    personally, i think he should sell the reverse split and go TSP Tv3 or Tsunami cam with Ls6 stage 2 or 2.5 heads at 62cc. That combined with a ported FAST 90/90 or 92/92 intake, his full exhuast, U/D pulley, and other supporting mods should place him well above 460rwhp and 410rwtq...

    he needs to figure out his goals first, then research from there...

  7. #7
    Member SSMOKEshow's Avatar
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    do you like the ms3 or 4at all

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    Visualize°Design°Create SSwt00SS's Avatar
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    '18 CTS-V
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    Personally, no I don't. Those are peak horsepower cams that require spinning the motor to really high RPMs. I prefer cams that make power under the curve with a nice TQ curve across the entire powerband.

    I only suggested the Tv3 since his car is a weekend warrior. I built my car for the street.
    Last edited by SSwt00SS; 04-03-2009 at 02:39 PM.
    2018 CTS-V: °°668rwhp/658rwtq°°
    2013 ZL1: °°590rwhp/576rwtq°°
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  9. #9
    Member SSMOKEshow's Avatar
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    thanx man i think hes goin with the v3 and the ls6 25 heads

  10. #10
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    '18 CTS-V
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    Have him research before he jumps right in and drops money. He needs to be proactive, not reactive. Knowledge and further insight is what he needs to do. Simply my suggestion.

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    Just posting it in here to ask my question.

    Hey I just realized something, I bought a NEW GM crank pulley bolt, but then I used that new bolt to torque the pulley down to 240 ft #'s. So that bolt got stretched. Do I need to worry that I used that bolt over again when I put the final TQ of 140* turn?
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    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    Just posting it in here to ask my question.

    Hey I just realized something, I bought a NEW GM crank pulley bolt, but then I used that new bolt to torque the pulley down to 240 ft #'s. So that bolt got stretched. Do I need to worry that I used that bolt over again when I put the final TQ of 140* turn?
    I would get a new one. It;s just not worth it to me. I went with an ARP crank bolt because they are reuseable. Then i kept my old stock crank bolt to use for installs. Its up to you but the GM crank bolts are pretty cheap so it might not hurt to replace it just in case.

  13. #13
    Veteran Hi-Po's Avatar
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    Damn, I guess ill buy a new one. SHIT!

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    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    Damn, I guess ill buy a new one. SHIT!
    why didnt you just use the old one to do it? did it break?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Crash View Post
    why didnt you just use the old one to do it? did it break?
    Well, I didnt buy a longer bolt. So when I was taking the pulley off I was afraid I was going to strip the last few threads. So I cut the "washer" off the bolt head. Then when re-installing, I had went and gotten a longer bolt for installation. I torqed that effer to 240 ft lbs. Then realized I had just streched my new bolt out. Its all back together, and now Im pondering if its worth it to take it apart. Damn one time use bolts can go to hell. Seriously.

  16. #16
    TJEA Retirement Home Dr.Crash's Avatar
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    ya thats why i bought the ARP bolt. it was like $27 but you can reuse it so its worth it.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr.Crash View Post
    ya thats why i bought the ARP bolt. it was like $27 but you can reuse it so its worth it.
    Man.... I am debating. Sonofa

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hi-Po View Post
    Man.... I am debating. Sonofa
    i used my original one

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark21742 View Post
    i used my original one
    Really? You didnt buy a new one? Im debating buying a new one. I mean, its new, its just been stretched one time,(240 ft pds)... then torqued again and tq'd to 37 lbs and turned roughly 140*

  20. #20
    I don't sell out! blackSS01's Avatar
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    I re-used mine and have had no problems for last 4 years. In fact, I didn't know up until about a month ago, that they were one time use
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