Cam/Head/Intake/Rearend upgrade....which to do first?

**mboodrx** · 04-20-2012, 12:54 AM

I am looking at doing some engine upgrades over the next 6 months. I have already done suspension and exhaust listed in my sig and am looking at upgrading Heads/Cam(to include valve springs, timing oil pump etc), intake manifold as well as putting a 12 bolt moser for the rear end with probably a 4.11 gear. I will then obviously have to get a new tune either by frost or dyno if I can find one close by. Question is, should I save up and try to do it all at the same time or can it be done piecemeal? If done one or a few at a time, what is the best order to do these in order to maximize time, effort and money? Any advise is greatly appreciated.

**1slowbusa** · 04-20-2012, 01:03 AM

What are your plans for the car if you get heads and can? Dragstrip? If so do the rear first. If you are going to just cruise around with it I would do heads and cam at the same time then do rear later. I would also look into upgrading the clutch, and use a tick master cylinder with their bleeding line.

**Knight** · 04-20-2012, 01:39 AM

I would upgrade the rear first. Even on the street, they can break. Ask me how I know. After that, I personally would do the h/c/i together, as you'll have everything apart at the same time then. As stated, look into upgrading the clutch and hydraulics. Also, if you are still using the stock torque arm, look into either relocating off the tailshaft of the tranny, or an aftermarket one that mounts to the crossmember or a tunnel mount.

**BrownsMillsAntz** · 04-20-2012, 05:27 AM

Are you doing your own work? Id do it all at the same time, thats a lot of doe though either way.

**cowstandmoto** · 04-20-2012, 03:14 PM

Yep. Anthony is right. That will cost a lot of money either way. But, that's what I did. I just did the whole thing. It cost me about a gillion dollars!! But oh well. It's only money!!!

**INMY01TA** · 04-22-2012, 06:58 PM

I did the rear and clutch before going into the motor.

**Blue28** · 04-22-2012, 07:24 PM

Originally Posted by INMY01TA

I did the rear and clutch before going into the motor.

This would be the safest way to go, do these first!

**35th-ANV-SS** · 04-22-2012, 07:31 PM

I did SFC/LCA's/Rear end with relocation brackets & PST drive shaft/TA/Clutch/Shifter/Built T56/PHB/Shocks & Springs/Drag Radials...in that order...then added power.

Having a bunch of power is fun and cool...when your car actually hooks and nothing breaks.

**tatertot91** · 04-22-2012, 09:44 PM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

Having a bunch of power is fun and cool...when your car actually hooks and nothing breaks.

Agreed
A good foundation is the best start, then you can tear into the motor

**0rion** · 04-23-2012, 03:23 AM

I agree with everyone else....rear first. You don't want to be in the running for the fastest car on jackstands like a lot of other people end up.

**mboodrx** · 04-23-2012, 05:55 AM

Thanks guys, I think this is what Im going to do. Rear-end with new torque arm and clutch first and then roll into intake/heads and cam afterwards. I'm planning on doing it all myself and will probably break it up into two separate projects.

The car is a daily driver but I do take her out to have some real fun from time to time, so I don't want to go too long without her while doing these upgrades. I'm hoping I'm not biting off more than I can chew, but I think breaking it up and taking my time with it should help.

**WICKEDLS1** · 05-03-2012, 05:37 PM

Im still on the stock rear here with 4-5k launches at the track, (not sure why it still works and doesnt make noise) however if it were me i would do the cam and heads at the same time and first but thats just me, just make sure you have everything that you need to do the swap ready to go. your going to be spending the same amount of money either way unless you do the heads cam and intake at different times but would be best to do it all at once while you are already in there

**0rion** · 05-03-2012, 05:56 PM

Originally Posted by WICKEDLS1

Im still on the stock rear here with 4-5k launches at the track, (not sure why it still works and doesnt make noise) however if it were me i would do the cam and heads at the same time and first but thats just me, just make sure you have everything that you need to do the swap ready to go. your going to be spending the same amount of money either way unless you do the heads cam and intake at different times but would be best to do it all at once while you are already in there

there are exceptions to the rule but many many people have made that stock 10 bolt puke it's guts out on even stock power levels.

**WICKEDLS1** · 05-03-2012, 06:15 PM

Originally Posted by 0rion

there are exceptions to the rule but many many people have made that stock 10 bolt puke it's guts out on even stock power levels.

yeah i have seen many cases lol idk why im one of the lucky ones

**35th-ANV-SS** · 05-04-2012, 03:16 AM

Originally Posted by WICKEDLS1:2772578

Originally Posted by 0rion

there are exceptions to the rule but many many people have made that stock 10 bolt puke it's guts out on even stock power levels.

yeah i have seen many cases lol idk why im one of the lucky ones

You're not lucky, you're on borrowed time.

**WICKEDLS1** · 05-04-2012, 09:47 AM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

You're not lucky, you're on borrowed time.

ill stick with the term lucky

**BrownsMillsAntz** · 05-07-2012, 07:44 AM

I chose to do the intake before i got my first tune a few years back. Ill be doing the heads and cam in a few weeks, I dont drag race and really dont beat the shit outta her so the 10 bolt should hold a few mths til I get the 12 bolt or 9.

**BrntWS6** · 06-24-2012, 07:53 AM

Most will recommend doing the rear and clutch first which is good advice. I can definately recommend doing the clutch first, mine let go on the dyno after my H/C. But I wanted instant gradification so I just dove into the H/C/I. I think it really depends on how you drive the car too, I've got about 450rwhp on 315 dr's for a year now and my 10 bolt is still holding. But I never go to the track, it's not a DD and I don't beat the hell out of it. I still have fun but I'm cautious at the same time. Rears are just expensive, a MWC 9" is gonna cost more than my entire build.