Average Price to change pistons and rods on ls1?

**Patsy57** · 03-25-2008, 07:09 AM

What is the average price to change your pistons and rods to forged ones on an ls1?

**Frost** · 03-25-2008, 07:28 AM

Originally Posted by Patsy57

What is the average price to change your pistons and rods to forged ones on an ls1?

It's not like swapping intakes, unless you have next to ZERO miles on the car, you basically have to rebuild the engine. Has to come out and apart, bores and mains checked at a machine shop and possibly trued up, need new rings and bearings and have the rotating assembly balanced, etc. I guess you could just pull the pistons and rods and put in new ones and new rings and rod-bearings, but that's kind of rolling the dice with your $$.

**Patsy57** · 03-25-2008, 07:33 AM

So what your basically saying is it is better/cheaper for me to purchase a complete short block assembly?

**Frost** · 03-25-2008, 08:00 AM

Originally Posted by Patsy57

So what your basically saying is it is better/cheaper for me to purchase a complete short block assembly?

No not at all, as you can certainly DIY for cheaper, just didn't want you to think that you get some pistons, get some rods, and just put em in and that's that...

**Patsy57** · 03-25-2008, 09:38 AM

I understand that of course. What I want to do is change the pistons and rods on my motor so I can sleep better about running boost through the motor. So My options are these:

1. I can get a new shortblock stroked out allready for roughly $3500.00, Thats a complete shortblock assembly stroked out to 383 with a forged crank,pistons, and rods. (Way to pricey for me at this point)

2. I can just change out the Pistons and rods on my stock motor and replace them with forged equipment possibly due the cam as well with all the machine work as you stated.

I am thinking option 2 will be half the price of option one but I am not sure and just wanted to get a solid number foundation to work with. So when I start calling shops in my area they dont see a sucker coming and go to town.

**Frost** · 03-25-2008, 10:23 AM

You can make 550-600rwhp on the stock bottom end with meth, at 550 with a good tune it will hold up for a long time. You are about to triple or quadruple your costs to make the next step up from 550 to 700ish... which is about your pump gas and meth limit anyway. Whatever you *think* FI will cost, once you think you have it all figured out, multiply by 2.5

**Patsy57** · 03-25-2008, 10:34 AM

See this is crazy I just got a quote for roughly at minimum three grand to swap the pistons and rods and machine the block, or to pull my motor and swap it with a short block it would just cost me 1500 in labor. WTF? Anyone know any good shops in NJ to get an honest price to swap the rods and pistons and machine the block?

**Frost** · 03-25-2008, 10:39 AM

That IS an honest price... If you want to make 700rwhp you have to pay for it... ask me how I know

Why not get your feet wet at 550rwhp and a fraction of the cost... is that last 100-150 hp REALLY worth 2-3x the expense? I spent the big bucks and I say I wouldn't do it over again. You will end up in 1500+ in fuel system too, and don't forget that your stock clutch (or TRANS if A4) and 10-bolt rear aren't gonna hold up either.

**Patsy57** · 03-25-2008, 10:54 AM

yea you are right I am gonna go for the 550, so what do you suggest to do so? My only concern with running the supercharger is i dont wanna blow the motor.