Air system pump?

[War Theory]

Hey all I keep on getting the service light and I was just told the air system pump is no good what does it do? please help how much am I looking at spending?

[War Theory]

I keep on getting the OBDII:P0410 code.

[fatelvis7]

could be diverter valve not opening, could bepump not pumping, could be blown fuse, the system moniters the o2 count when turning on pump, they should go way lean. if not something is keeping the pump air from getting to the o2 sensor. unhook the hoses and check for water intrusion, look at main fuse. or just unhook the damn thing and ignore it ( unless your state has emmision laws). Damn that al gore...

[War Theory]

lol will do let you know what I see I heard after it rains a little water might rest on the senor or give the air pump a problem I will check it out

[pajeff02]

Had to deal with the same code -- testing goes something like this:

With the engine cold, locate the hose that runs over top of the driver side wheel well and disconnect it at the union. Start the engine and you should have air blowing from the hose that comes up from the front of the wheel well. If you have no air flow, then you need to check the fuse, relay and pump. The pump itself can be accessed from underneath the car by unbolting the splash shield just in front of the wheel.

If you have air flow, next check is the diverter valve and solenoid. On each side of the engine, there is a metal tube that runs up from each exhaust manifold to a check valve. The check valve has a black plastic clamp which secures the hose assembly to the check valve. Undo the clamp and pull each hose. Again, with the engine cold, start the car and you should have air blowing from each hose. If not, either the diverter valve or solenoid is faulty. These components are located on the top, rear, driver side of the engine and are a little fun to get at. Check connections, check for vacuum, and power to the solenoid.

If you have air at each hose where they attach to the check valves, it is likely that the check valves are carboned up or shot. You can buy replacements at Autozone, just be aware they have 3 different styles of canister. It took me two orders to get a matched set that I liked. I ended up unbolting the metal tubes from the manifolds to remove the check valves -- they were on pretty tight and had to be heated a bit to break them free.

The system only operates for a few minutes upon initial start up and helps the cats come up to operating temp quicker by injecting air into the exhaust stream. A lot of guys simply remove the whole secondary air system and have it tuned out so the CEL does not illuminate. Good luck.

[tatertot91]

Had to deal with the same code -- testing goes something like this:

With the engine cold, locate the hose that runs over top of the driver side wheel well and disconnect it at the union. Start the engine and you should have air blowing from the hose that comes up from the front of the wheel well. If you have no air flow, then you need to check the fuse, relay and pump. The pump itself can be accessed from underneath the car by unbolting the splash shield just in front of the wheel.

If you have air flow, next check is the diverter valve and solenoid. On each side of the engine, there is a metal tube that runs up from each exhaust manifold to a check valve. The check valve has a black plastic clamp which secures the hose assembly to the check valve. Undo the clamp and pull each hose. Again, with the engine cold, start the car and you should have air blowing from each hose. If not, either the diverter valve or solenoid is faulty. These components are located on the top, rear, driver side of the engine and are a little fun to get at. Check connections, check for vacuum, and power to the solenoid.

If you have air at each hose where they attach to the check valves, it is likely that the check valves are carboned up or shot. You can buy replacements at Autozone, just be aware they have 3 different styles of canister. It took me two orders to get a matched set that I liked. I ended up unbolting the metal tubes from the manifolds to remove the check valves -- they were on pretty tight and had to be heated a bit to break them free.

The system only operates for a few minutes upon initial start up and helps the cats come up to operating temp quicker by injecting air into the exhaust stream. A lot of guys simply remove the whole secondary air system and have it tuned out so the CEL does not illuminate. Good luck.

If i still have my stock y-pipe with the cats is it still ok to remove the air system. Just wondering if removing the air pump would cause it to run differently, or if it would cause my cats not to function properly.

[pajeff02]

If i still have my stock y-pipe with the cats is it still ok to remove the air system. Just wondering if removing the air pump would cause it to run differently, or if it would cause my cats not to function properly.

Emissions laws and triggering the SES are the only concerns. You can have you PCM re-programmed to delete the secondary air system and prevent the SES issue.

[tatertot91]

Emissions laws and triggering the SES are the only concerns. You can have you PCM re-programmed to delete the secondary air system and prevent the SES issue.

Already knew about the SES light, just making sure it would only affect emissions and not the car itself still having the cats.