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Thread: 6.0 questions

  1. #1
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    6.0 questions

    OK, haven't got any answers on the 5.3 question so I'll try this. I may have a 2000 2500 chevy truck bought that is hit in the front. It is std shift. I need a eng for my 51 chev truck I'm building, so I thought if I get this I could pull the eng, pcm and wiring and use it. Is this a drv by wire like I think it is? What would I need to make this work? If it's to much of a deal, I'd go with a carb and 6010 msd. I've heard of 5.3's being different from auto to std trans, with the 6.0 all I'll need is the spacer, bolts and flywheel, correct? What's the best budget head for these? I'd like to make some decent hp with this so any help or some similar builds would be appreciated. Also trying to figure out difference in price on keeping inj or going carb.

  2. #2
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    send a message to firebirdjones on here.....he did a 6L swap into his truck and will be able to answer pretty much all your questions.

  3. #3
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    First welcome, look forward to seeing updates on this.


    Quote Originally Posted by vhtt View Post
    OK, haven't got any answers on the 5.3 question so I'll try this. I may have a 2000 2500 chevy truck bought that is hit in the front. It is std shift. I need a eng for my 51 chev truck I'm building, so I thought if I get this I could pull the eng, pcm and wiring and use it.

    Is this a drv by wire like I think it is?
    I believe it is. Most of the DBW is after 04'


    Quote Originally Posted by vhtt View Post
    What would I need to make this work? If it's to much of a deal, I'd go with a carb and 6010 msd.
    You are correct in ECM & wire harness. Having both that comes with the engine save's money and makes it easier in tuning. Secondary ECM's have to be unlocked and can cost. Same with aftermarket wire harness. Most go for around $650. Now if you get the block and ECM from different yrs you will need to make sure they have the same reluctor wheel setup. 99-04 LQ4/9's have 24x reluctor wheel while 05 < have 58x reluctor wheel. If the ECM is set up for 58x you will need to change the reluctor wheel or use a converter (ain't cheap). Since you stated you are using a 00' you will be fine.


    Quote Originally Posted by vhtt View Post
    I've heard of 5.3's being different from auto to std trans, with the 6.0 all I'll need is the spacer, bolts and flywheel, correct?
    It doesn't matter between 5.3 vs 6.0. I think you may be referring to pre 99' 6.0 blocks needing spacers for 99'< transmissions. Pre 99' (6.0) yrs required a spacer because the cranks were about 1/2" shorter in order to work with a T56 designed for LS blocks. Manual transmissions are easier to do when swapping over, with auto's you need to have the auto wire harness and the ECM has to be programmed to the transmission.

    If you can't find or use the 4L60E the 4L80E is a much better transmission, also the 700R will work with LSx blocks too. Tuning and correct stalls will be required.


    Quote Originally Posted by vhtt View Post
    What's the best budget head for these? I'd like to make some decent hp with this so any help or some similar builds would be appreciated. Also trying to figure out difference in price on keeping inj or going carb.
    Bold - This subject has many opinions. What works in one build may not work for another. When it comes to stock heads, most ppl prefer 243 heads for NA builds and 317 heads for FI builds. Both have pro's and cons, it again depends on what your goals are.


    High Performance Pontiac has had many articles on carb vs FI on 6 liter blocks. This block is very versatile. It can handle more boost on FI builds, you can use cathedral (LS1,2,6 style) or rectangular (LS3 style) port heads. Both capable of reaching mid 500's in HP & TQ in their 408ci builds.


    We currently have several members doing engine swaps online here, myself included.

    Currently building:

    LQ4 (6liter) block 4.005"
    DSS Forged Pistons
    SCAT Forged I Beam Connecting Rods
    Tick Polluter Stage III Cam (239/244 112+2 LSA)
    243 Heads - stock for now
    LS6 Intake

    You can click on the link in my signature for more info.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 11-25-2013 at 07:46 AM.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    00 FB Vert - Stock

    78 FB - Just getting started......

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

  4. #4
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    Been watching your build, I'll probably run a glide, aftermarket conv. OD may come later. I'll see if I'm going to get this, if I do then I'll have more questions. Thanks

  5. #5
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    1 more question before I do buy this, I've read somewhere that the 99 and 2000 had a thicker crank flange and presented problems. I'm running a auto, so am I going to have problems?

  6. #6
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I haven't heard of that.....maybe FBJ might have.

  7. #7
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    Well, got the truck, whole truck, 2000 2500HD, std shift. I'll have the ecm, wiring harness, accessories, etc. We'll see what happens. It's got 141000 miles but runs out good.

  8. #8
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    congrats

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