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  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Black
    1999 WS6

    Want to replace my rotors and pads.....

    The OEM rotors appear to be warped seeing as the car shakes pretty good when the brakes are applied at 70+mph. I've been thinking about getting these rotors with the Hawk Pads-

    Rotors-

    http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=2105



    Pads-

    http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...roducts_id=547

  2. #2
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    the rotors not being drilled, is a good start. I like slotted. I don't know much about the brand you're looking at though. Ask ws6store about their opinion on those rotors. I don't know. Remember you get what you pay for. I have ATE slotted rotors and got them off of stranoparts.com. They're about twice the price, but I know they're bad ass lol. the pads you're looking at are great too.

  3. #3
    Veteran 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    02 35th LE Camaro SS

    Thanks for posting the links on the HPS pads. I've read good things about those and am looking at the same pads to buy. That looks like a really good price for the set too!

  4. #4
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    1999 WS6

    Just read a post by sam regarding the ATE rotors. He sells a combo with the HPS pads and the ATE rotors. Check out the links. Seems like a great deal.

    http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=16&ModelID=8

  5. #5
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    that's what I have, I just never got around to getting my stainless lines and racing fluid installed.

  6. #6
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    1999 WS6

    Quote Originally Posted by 7camaro7 View Post
    that's what I have, I just never got around to getting my stainless lines and racing fluid installed.
    How are the rotors, are they coated with something to prevent rust?

  7. #7
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    anti-rust coated and they definitely taking a beating.

  8. #8
    Firebird Encyclopedia 9T8W66's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    `98 Formula M6 HdTp

    I have the ATE's with Hawk HPS's also, did the swap early this year.
    Another great poduct from Strano.

    Heres some pics





    Craig
    Semi Retired Street Racer
    2012 Lava Red Mustang GT Coupe Brembo/3.73's
    Build Date 3/17/11, Last Lava Red GT

    Gone but not forgoten
    NBM `98 Formula M6 HdTp
    1 of 1 Build Date 3/12/98

  9. #9
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    1999 WS6

    Those look great man! How are they holding up so far as far as rust goes? Are they coated with something to prevent the rust? Overall, how do they stop compared to the stock pieces you had on there before?

  10. #10
    Firebird Encyclopedia 9T8W66's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    `98 Formula M6 HdTp

    No rust as of yet and as for stopping power, it is much improved over the 132K mile stock parts. My ABS INOP light is on (possibly a faulty sensor) cause I had a hell of a time hammering the old rotors off. But even with the ABS not working it stops good hard and straight. I had basically a panic stop last night and it only slid on the paint lines on the road. Swear it went from 45-0 in around 30 ft.
    Last edited by 9T8W66; 08-08-2009 at 05:49 AM.

  11. #11
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9T8W66 View Post
    No rust as of yet and as for stopping power, it is much improved over the 132K mile stock parts. My ABS INOP light is on (possibly a faulty sensor) cause I had a hell of a time hammering the old rotors off. But even with the ABS not working it stops good hard and straight. I had basically a panic stop last night and it only slid on the paint lines on the road. Swear it went from 45-0 in around 30 ft.
    hammering huh? I bet you're talking about the rears. If you turned off the hand brake they would've come off just as easy as the fronts. I almost hammered, but decided to turn the brake off since my work place was flat.
    Quote Originally Posted by StrikerWS6 View Post
    Those look great man! How are they holding up so far as far as rust goes? Are they coated with something to prevent the rust? Overall, how do they stop compared to the stock pieces you had on there before?
    they stop way better. with the stock stuff I felt fade a few times which is when you need or want to stop quickly a few times then the brakes feel like they suddenly let go. Scarey. Never felt it with this set up.

    9t8w66, have you felt fade with these yet?
    Last edited by 7camaro7; 08-08-2009 at 08:10 AM.

  12. #12
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    1999 WS6

    I just dont want them to be crappy looking after a few years. The car doesnt see rain let alone snow or salt. They def look like a good unit. I might as well get them with the stainless steel braided brake lines. Anyone get Stranos SS brake lines? How are they?

  13. #13
    Firebird Encyclopedia 9T8W66's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7camaro7 View Post
    hammering huh? I bet you're talking about the rears. If you turned off the hand brake they would've come off just as easy as the fronts. I almost hammered, but decided to turn the brake off since my work place was flat.

    9t8w66, have you felt fade with these yet?
    Actually the E brake was off and the rotors had never been off the car hence why they were a PITA.

    As for fade never felt any as of yet but I don't repeatedly hammer the brakes enough for them to fade anyway.

  14. #14
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9T8W66 View Post
    Actually the E brake was off and the rotors had never been off the car hence why they were a PITA.

    As for fade never felt any as of yet but I don't repeatedly hammer the brakes enough for them to fade anyway.
    Mine didn't want to come off with the Hbrake on, but when I turned it off they came right off without a fight. I have "tested" my brakes a couple times and they just do what I want them to do which is slow me down or stop in a hurry.

  15. #15
    Junior Member jaydean21849's Avatar
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    1998 ta

    why not just get them turned unless ur doing it for looks if u have ur rotors turned they will be straight again

  16. #16
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaydean21849 View Post
    why not just get them turned unless ur doing it for looks if u have ur rotors turned they will be straight again
    getting your rotors turned thins them out even more and causes them to warp possibly faster than they did in the first place if used the same way. New slotted rotors work well because they're thick as new blank rotors with the added benefit of getting rid of hot gases from fade while eliminating fade better than blanks.

  17. #17
    Member 2000redcamaro's Avatar
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    00 z28 m6

    thanks for all the good info. i need to change mine soon. there are starting to make noise and shake

  18. #18
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2000redcamaro View Post
    thanks for all the good info. i need to change mine soon. there are starting to make noise and shake
    AKA unsafe brakes and change immediately

  19. #19
    Senior Member 00z28bubba's Avatar
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    i dig slotted and drilled rotors for the looks. but the slots arent any better than the stockers when they are both in good condition. our stock rotors and replacement rotors are designed for outgassing. and the drilled are just weakpoints. susceptible to stress cracks. but performance wise blanks are just as good as any d/s, or s rotors.

  20. #20
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 00z28bubba View Post
    i dig slotted and drilled rotors for the looks. but the slots arent any better than the stockers when they are both in good condition. our stock rotors and replacement rotors are designed for outgassing. and the drilled are just weakpoints. susceptible to stress cracks. but performance wise blanks are just as good as any d/s, or s rotors.
    so explain why I felt the gassing of my stockers which you say were designed for outgassing, and I have not for my new slotted ones?

    and I'd like to know where you're getting your info.

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