Want new suspension..what exactly do i need?

**Guerrillakilla13** · 05-22-2011, 07:07 PM

So, long ago i bought myself a good ole 2002 ws6. The person who owned it before me modified it quite a bit.

the person had a lowered suspension setup on it, and i don't think it could be any worse. i feel every single bump in the road, the bottom scrapes on speed bumps, and my wheels scrape against the wheel-well when i take turns just right. it was bearable for a bit but now it bugs me.

I have 0 knowledge on anything suspension. i know your all awesome and will help me out though

What do i need to buy to fix my suspension? what makes for a good smooth ride?

**98maro** · 05-22-2011, 09:38 PM

ok, so the car is lowered now? you want to go back to stock or want better suspension parts??
for that we need for info, what you have on it right now, shocks,springs or stuff like that.. do you have any idea whats on the car?

**c5z28** · 05-22-2011, 10:38 PM

First what is your tire size? If you could show us a pic of the cars stance/ or get under the car and look at the brand of springs that would help. I suspect you have the eibach 2" drop, they are known to sag in the rear and are just about the lowest you can go which would cause scraping. When you are looking at the shocks to see what you have here are some major brands for you to look out for- orange is stock de carbons, yellow with blue is bilstein, red color is kyb.

Regardless if the ride is harsh the shocks are probably done. More spring will give you a smoother ride (more travel for the shock to work with). The best thing is to get a shock that is valved for whatever spring you choose. The first choice is the kyb shocks, I know people who do and don't like them. They are adjustable but not the best shock. Bilstein slp is the middle road and koni's with vogtland springs if you have extra cash. When talking to a shock/spring retailer (links on this site) ask which properly match what so as to limit wear on shocks and give the best handling the shock has to offer. If you don't match properly you are more susceptable to repeat what has already happened to you.
Depending on how wide your rear tires are, or if you can see evidence of where a tire rubbed on the inner fenderwell on either side you will need an adjustable panhard rod to center the axle.
I just typed as it came to mind feel free to ask more questions.

**c5z28** · 05-22-2011, 11:01 PM

And another thing this might go better in the suspension section

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**Guerrillakilla13** · 07-08-2011, 01:28 PM

I'm sorry guys Its been too long since I've been on this site, sorry i gotta resurrect the issue.

I did some research C5Z28 and here's all the info and pictures i have SO FAR.

-all 4 tires are 275X35 ZR18 95W
-Spring color is burgundy-ish
-Bilstein
-There is no unusual lean on the tires, at least that i notice. But i'll have a mechanic determine that.

(Pictures below)

So again i'm just asking what would be the cheapest, or decently priced (whichever best) way to get a smoother ride and lift my ride up a bit to prevent scraping?

**98TransAmWs-6** · 07-08-2011, 03:30 PM

Your springs look like vogtland springs. These are my vogtland 1.2" springs, your look exactly like them

Also since it is lowered it should have lca relocation brackets and IMO an adjustable panhard bar. I think getting those would greatly increase ride quality.

**Guerrillakilla13** · 07-08-2011, 07:13 PM

Yeah those look exactly like them lol. Have you put those on yet?

Dude i'm dumb with anything suspension.. Are the LCA relocation brackets necessary? Same with an adjustable panhard bar? if you have the time to answer this too..can you explain those to me? I truly appreciate the help

**98TransAmWs-6** · 07-08-2011, 08:49 PM

Nope I don't have them installed yet. They would be but I haven't had the time. When you are lowered a lca bracket is absolutely necessary, since you are changing the suspension geometry by lowering it, basically the brackets correct this change in the geometry by changing the angle of the lca. An adjustable panhard bar isn't an absolute must but it will allow you to re-center the rear end. I really think most of your problems are probably due to not having lca relocation brackets. This is a very basic explanation, I can give a more detailed version if needed.

**Guerrillakilla13** · 07-09-2011, 10:11 AM

So if i want to raise up my suspension a bit for a much better ride, i'm going to need these 3 main parts?

lca relocation brackets
Shocks/struts
springs

With the panhard bar, ill have a shop do the suspension so i don't believe re centering the rear end on my part is necessary..

does this sound right? or am i way beyond off...

**98TransAmWs-6** · 07-09-2011, 04:47 PM

For raising the suspension all you need is to go back to the stock springs, you don't need new shocks and struts or lca brackets unless you just want them. But if you don't mind being lowered you could just get lca brackets and adjustable panhard bar. I honestly would go the lca brackets and panhard bar route if I was in your situation, as that should fix your issues. But it's your car so ultimately it is up to you. Once again how are your tires? Like tread life? As old tires can affect the ride quality.

**Guerrillakilla13** · 07-09-2011, 09:22 PM

I just want to raise my car a little bit, but not by much. I don't need to replace the shocks/struts and what not?

My tires are at like %80. They're fine. Again i just want to, in general, get a smoother ride and raise it up by a little bit so i don't scrape as much and so i can take turns faster than 15 mph (AND not feel every damn small bump in the road). Again if you were in my situation, you would just buy the LCA brackets and panhard bar?

**lees02ws6** · 07-10-2011, 04:25 AM

Originally Posted by c5z28

First what is your tire size? If you could show us a pic of the cars stance/ or get under the car and look at the brand of springs that would help. I suspect you have the eibach 2" drop, they are known to sag in the rear and are just about the lowest you can go which would cause scraping. When you are looking at the shocks to see what you have here are some major brands for you to look out for- orange is stock de carbons, yellow with blue is bilstein, red color is kyb.

Regardless if the ride is harsh the shocks are probably done. More spring will give you a smoother ride (more travel for the shock to work with). The best thing is to get a shock that is valved for whatever spring you choose. The first choice is the kyb shocks, I know people who do and don't like them. They are adjustable but not the best shock. Bilstein slp is the middle road and koni's with vogtland springs if you have extra cash. When talking to a shock/spring retailer (links on this site) ask which properly match what so as to limit wear on shocks and give the best handling the shock has to offer. If you don't match properly you are more susceptable to repeat what has already happened to you.
Depending on how wide your rear tires are, or if you can see evidence of where a tire rubbed on the inner fenderwell on either side you will need an adjustable panhard rod to center the axle.
I just typed as it came to mind feel free to ask more questions.

This guys gave you the best answer. Neither LCA's nor a PHB are required. What makes an adjustable panhard bar a sensible move is if the tires are rubbing, at any point through the suspension travel, and you plan on staying lowered. You have Bilsteins which are a quality shock, but are not intended to be lowered on. Lots of people do it, but the compression valving doesn't keep the car off the bump stops adequately (hitting them constantly makes the ride even harsher).

You should do a search and look at stock ride, and decide if the looks will bother you more than the lowered ride. A different type of shock would be required to give a lowered ride while still maintaining decent ride quality, Koni or Kyb AGX, or have the bilsteins revalved. A threaded collar on the fronts, and weight jackers on the rear spring would give you adjustable ride height. Every time you change the height though you would need an alignment. By the way 4th gens do not have struts, they are shocks at all four corners. You could do the hose mod on the rear for a slight drop, but you'd need koni's or a coilover (shock with a threaded collar) to lower the front.

The best ride quality would come from those Bilstein shocks, and stock springs.

Stock height.

**Guerrillakilla13** · 07-10-2011, 11:21 AM

I'll love life if all i have to buy is new springs and a proper alignment.

So i can keep the Bilstein shock's than? I don't have to change anything else (if i decide on stock springs)? I want to take the bird to a performance suspension shop and make sure that there isn't anything else done to it that i dont know about. Cant do that today since its sunday, but i'll get back with that. and i don't know what revalving the shocks mean..

Thats unfortunate i have to buy new shocks if i dont want stock ride height. I'm not sure how it'll look; hopefully not too different, But i'll check into it.

**lees02ws6** · 07-10-2011, 02:38 PM

Originally Posted by Guerrillakilla13

I'll love life if all i have to buy is new springs and a proper alignment.

So i can keep the Bilstein shock's than? I don't have to change anything else (if i decide on stock springs)? I want to take the bird to a performance suspension shop and make sure that there isn't anything else done to it that i dont know about. Cant do that today since its sunday, but i'll get back with that. and i don't know what revalving the shocks mean..

Thats unfortunate i have to buy new shocks if i dont want stock ride height. I'm not sure how it'll look; hopefully not too different, But i'll check into it.

The fender gap should be similar to what you see above, not my car, although you have larger wheels so it'll be a little less. Yes you can keep those shocks as they are very good, and on a stock height car work very well. No you wouldn't have to do anything else apart from an alignment.

Shocks have valves and fluid, or gas, in them. How quickly they compress, and rebound, is controlled through valving and pressure. Shocks that are not a sealed tube design can often be valved for a specific need. The cost for doing that varies, but I believe Bilstein will charge $60 per shock. If you wanted to get the most out of those shocks on a lower spring it would be a good to have them revalved, or buy shocks that can handle the drop.

**Guerrillakilla13** · 07-12-2011, 11:32 PM

Its all good man i just found out OEM is way more expensive than Eibach, so i'll just do the aftermarket one instead.

I finally called the shop (goodspeed performance). All i need is the new springs if the shocks are OK. if not, ill have to pay to get those revalved.

They want to charge me 797 for alignment, springs and labor (if nothing has to be done to the shocks). Is that a good price you think? Is it worth it if im going to be spending that much?

Thanks for the info and explanation by the way

**ls1camino** · 07-13-2011, 03:38 AM

Originally Posted by Guerrillakilla13

Its all good man i just found out OEM is way more expensive than Eibach, so i'll just do the aftermarket one instead.

I finally called the shop (goodspeed performance). All i need is the new springs if the shocks are OK. if not, ill have to pay to get those revalved.

They want to charge me 797 for alignment, springs and labor (if nothing has to be done to the shocks). Is that a good price you think? Is it worth it if im going to be spending that much?

Thanks for the info and explanation by the way

I'd get new shocks, because they have to be removed on the front to put new springs on anyway.

**lees02ws6** · 07-13-2011, 05:21 AM

Sounds expensive, did they break it out for you. How much are they charging for alignment (should include thrust angle alignment for the rear)? Are you getting an adjustable panhard bar/ Maybe I missed it, if you're staying lowered why are you buying new springs at all? Why not just stay with the ones you've got and get the shocks valved to handle them?

**Guerrillakilla13** · 07-13-2011, 10:10 AM

Alignment is 160, labor is like 380 (4 hours), springs are 215... plus tax it all came out to 797. I dont know why the alignment is so damn much, but i'm the farthest from knowledgeable on these kinda things. I assume for that price the thrust angle alignment would be included?

I'm just going to get better springs, the one on my car are pretty old and make creep noises when they bounce. the wheels scrape on the well ALOT too..
As far as the shocks go; i could get them valved to handle the springs, but again the springs i have now are old and way too low. I figured new springs is the easiest way to go..? I heard Eibach is the way to go, so i'm just going to have them do that if i follow through with the operation.

LS1Camino, i already have Bilstein shocks on the car. Getting them revalved (if necessary) would be much cheaper than getting new ones.

**lees02ws6** · 07-13-2011, 11:17 AM

Eibach's Prokits and sportlines have a pretty poor reputation with the LS1's. They set the ride height about 1.5" lower than stock (despite the advertised claim of 1.2"), and don't ride very well at all. BMR is running a Koni 4/4 or 4/3 special with their springs. You might compare the cost of a revalve and news springs againts that deal.