UMI subframe connectors

**pv-camaro** · 11-13-2011, 12:44 AM

hi,

I have a question, i am to the point of buying some subframe connectors for my 2001 Camaro.
My choice is the 2-points (bolt on), from UMI

There are two choices the steel one ($ 184,95)and the chromoly one ($284,95),
The question is, is it worth the extra $100,00, is chromoly so much stronger than steel ?

**98maro** · 11-13-2011, 11:07 AM

Get the cheaper ones and weld them!

**UMI Sales** · 11-14-2011, 04:47 AM

Good morning pv-camaro.

We recommend mild steel for street use as well as auto-x, Pro-Tour, dragstrip, etc. The CrMo set is stronger and 5 lbs lighter per set and are recommended for full race cars (i.e. trailered drag cars, road race, etc). You'll be perfectly fine with the mild steel in 95% of the cases. Some customers enjoy the weight savings on the street despite the price difference.

We are proud to build both types and they perform equally well.

Thanks for choosing UMI. Let us know if you have any other tech questions. We're here to help.

ramey

**Naaman** · 11-15-2011, 07:25 PM

Just curious: why are you considering the 2-point sub frame connectors? I have a convertible, and was force to get the 2-points, since at the time that's all they had

. Now, I'm trying to justify buying the 3-point connectors, and trying to figure out what to do with my old ones... :P. I would suggest getting the three point SFCs if you can swing the cash (I'd even save up a little more and hold out for them, if you can).

**2002ssslp** · 11-15-2011, 09:29 PM

Naaman is right. Save up some cash and go for the 3 point SFC you will be very happy with the performance.

**pv-camaro** · 11-18-2011, 09:16 AM

Money is not the problem (sending them to the Netherlands in Europe, is very, very expensive anyway).
I just like to see the 2 points, they (the UMI ones) are decent hidden behind the chassis,
They are for my 2001 V6 Camaro, it is not a SS one, so i thought 2 points are good enough.

But you are right, maybe a 3 point is a better option.

**UMI Sales** · 11-18-2011, 09:27 AM

Hey pv and other forum dudes. Thanks for all the mentions of UMI. We really are proud of the quality of our products. Of course 3-point offers more rigidity but we still sell a ton of 2-points which are much of an improvement over no connectors. Regardless of 2 vs 3 or mild steel vs CrMo, they really do help tighten the car.

Good luck! We appreciate you using our products all the way in the Netherlands.

ramey

**pv-camaro** · 11-18-2011, 09:53 AM

Hi Ramey,

Thanks for the responce,
I drive my 2001 3.8V6 Camaro only in the weekends for the fun (it's not a daily), after a week of hard work.
Fast driving in the Netherlands is almost impossibly, we have lots of Police and speeding cameras, who will not only take your actual speed, they also calculate your average speed (with several cameras at some distance).
If you drive 50km/h (31 miles/h) too fast, and you will get caught, the police will take your licence, if it is your first time you will get it back after 10 days, as it happened several times you will stand at the court.

Hopely i explained it right, my goal is not to turn my Camaro in a racing car, i just would make it more rigidit.

Parts for my car, are always a little more difficult, Camaro's and other American cars are very rare in Europe, so parts are rare too.

The reason of UMI, because they have quality parts for a decent price, and the 2 points (bolt on) are nicely hidden behind the chassis, and i don't like to weld on the car.

**Redrokit8** · 11-18-2011, 07:21 PM

I have the UMI 2 points bolt on. My driving is strictly street. This one modification has made the biggest difference of all suspension mods I have done. Immediately tightens the overall feel of the car and you feel as if you're driving a one piece machine. I have a full boat of UMI suspension pieces and they turned my 2002 WS6 into a different car. Just unbelievable how glued down it feels whether you're cruising at 75mph or taking 120mph bursts. You can put the 2 points on by yourself, no problem. The biggest hassle is lining up the front bolt brackets that slip into the subframe. I actually tied string to the bolt holes on the bracket to hold them in place. The bolts will cut right through the string and the bracket stays put when you are starting to thread the bolts. If this sounds confusing don't worry. Once you get the connectors and read the directions it will all come together. Make sure your lower control bar bushings are lubricated with synthetic grease before slipping on the connectors. Best mod for the money.