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Thread: torque arm nightmare
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04-17-2009, 09:30 AM #1
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Jacksonville Tx
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- 33
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Black- 2002 ws6 (6 speed)
torque arm nightmare
just got my poly torque arm and tranny mount. tranny mount is easy just not the torque arm
some one please tell me a good method to do this, or a tip or trick or somethin. i get really close, but then somethin dont line up or when i do get it lined up, i cant get the bolts by rear end in and when i jack up the body of the car so i can get the bolts in, it moves the torque arm to where i cant get them in. PLEASE HELP1999 mbm Z m6/ forged 346, lt's, wires, ls6 intake, sts rear turbo.
*SOLD*2002 black ws6- <Bolt ons, ls6 heads, mild cam, dyno tune, full susp. and 4.10s> --440rwhp/395rwtq
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04-17-2009, 10:08 AM #2
Do you have the the car resting on the wheels, or do you just have the body jacked up with no weight on the rearend?
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04-17-2009, 11:13 AM #3
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04-17-2009, 12:00 PM #4
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04-17-2009, 12:01 PM #5
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04-17-2009, 01:11 PM #6
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
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- Beaver Dam KY
- Posts
- 7,745
79 T/A -91 Firebird- 1998 Trans Am -Oynx Black
What I did was take one part of the TA mount off and ground the rivets off them I took a very sharp chisel and did the other two on the car... It was an extreme bitch
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04-17-2009, 01:19 PM #7
I believe all 4 tires should be in the air to line it up and you will deff feel a difference once you get it on will make the ride much smoother
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04-17-2009, 01:33 PM #8
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04-17-2009, 02:25 PM #9
Had to drop the driveshaft to change the rear u-joint a few weeks ago -- needed to unbolt the torque arm to get the shaft out of the car and had the same problem going back together.
With the car on a lift, I used an undercar stand (the kind with a screwjack) to raise the differential in the back. This pushes the nose down and the torque arm and bolts fell right into place.
I assume you can do the same with a floor jack. I would support the car under the rear "frame rails" with jackstands -- not under the axle. This will allow the differential to pivot.
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04-17-2009, 02:54 PM #10
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- 2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter
I didnt have my rear end on a jack mayb thats why mine was such a PITA. I just had two jackstands on the unibody then sat the torque arm on the rear without any bolts then i had to use a pair of vice grips to hold the bushing and arm together while getting my arm up there to bolt it in before it was completely tight i could adjust the TA by pulling it back and forth to line up the back bolt not fun but it can be done.
Dan
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04-17-2009, 04:30 PM #11
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Jacksonville Tx
- Age
- 33
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- 983
Black- 2002 ws6 (6 speed)
thanks guys
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04-20-2009, 10:25 AM #12
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04-20-2009, 12:16 PM #13
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
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- Beaver Dam KY
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79 T/A -91 Firebird- 1998 Trans Am -Oynx Black
Well since the OP has got it good to go, i will say you CANNOT have any load on the rear end when you install the bushing or you will break a. fingers. b. hand c. arms. or d. torque arm.
The rear end must be able to rock up and down.
This is with a non adjustable STOCK style torque arm..
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04-20-2009, 05:01 PM #14
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04-20-2009, 05:50 PM #15
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04-20-2009, 05:50 PM #16
- Join Date
- Oct 2007
- Location
- Beaver Dam KY
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- 7,745
79 T/A -91 Firebird- 1998 Trans Am -Oynx Black
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04-21-2009, 07:16 AM #17
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04-21-2009, 01:46 PM #18
Ive always done them with all 4 wheels on the ground(we have a pit). Obviously you will need to grind the rivets off of the stock mount to get the bushing out, but after that its fairly simple, just make sure you use plenty of the included lube on the torque arm and the bushing or it will be a major PITA to slide it on. BTW, I always slide the bushing on then with the "inner" mount on the tranny I pull the torque arm down into the mount then I slide the "outer" part of the mount in and slide the bolt in.
02 Camaro
PRC Stg 2.5 5.3's, Futral F14, PP Typhoon intake, True duals, Performabuilt tranny, & 3500 convertor, HSW plate kit.
*Old Time* 10.90@ 125mph
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04-23-2010, 02:40 PM #19
ive done it in my garage many times now. I used jack stands under k member and under rear axle on both sides. i loosened both bolts through the rear end and was able to slide the front one out. For the back one, I had to move the jack stands from the rear axles and put them under the jacking points in the unibody on both sides in front of the rear wheels. Then the rear end dropped enough to get the bolt up and out. To put it back in, keep the stands under the jacking points, and then persuade it back in place with a rubber mallet. You could use a large screwdriver to help you if you need to. I haven't needed that yet. Then move the jack stands back under axle, and tighten everything up. Hope this helps, cause ive been typing for ten damn minutes.
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05-01-2010, 06:01 PM #20
I used jackstands in the standard jacking locations in the rear (unibody) to raise the car. Putting a floor jack under the rear diff cover area of the rear and raising/lowering the jack will rotate the axle and get the torque arm where you need it.
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