Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    Member Nutball's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    262

    Maple Red Metallic
    2001 T/A

    Torque Arm install

    Is there any "easy" way to bolt-up the clam-shell around the poly bushing? ( A4 BMR non-adj.)
    Not so much that I'm looking for an easy way.....just need to know if there are any tricks or advice to getting it closed and bolted.

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Florida Man Status Acheivement
    Posts
    11,758

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Is the transmission cross member stock or BMR too?

    Lube the poly mount with WD40 just before sliding it in.

  3. #3
    Member Nutball's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    262

    Maple Red Metallic
    2001 T/A

    Stock.
    I was thinking of that after I posted. Was ready to try a little Bering grease or WD.
    I already had the clam shell bolted down but, the torque arm wouldn't slide into the hole. So I mounted the rear part of the arm and now have the task of trying to close the clam-shell.

  4. #4
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Florida Man Status Acheivement
    Posts
    11,758

    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    On my UMI T/A I left the bolts for the clam shell slightly loose but not enough to push the poly bushing out. I inserted the front in first and then swung it up on to the rear. You may need a floor jack (I did) to lift/tilt the rear to get to the same angle as the T/A. I also slide the bolts from the bottom and use lock washers and a dab of red Lock tight to make sure it doesn't loosen up. Far easier to push the bolts up then to get clearance for them to come down. Once the rear bolts are tighten then I go back to the clam shell and tighten them up.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    00 FB Vert - Stock

    78 FB - Just getting started......

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

  5. #5
    Member Nutball's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    262

    Maple Red Metallic
    2001 T/A

    AWESOME, I will give that a try.
    I've got plenty of room to install the bolts on the top of the "diff" rather then the bottom. Car is up on jack stands, off the frame rails, not the axles.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. before and after pics of my torque arm install
    By blue02Z in forum Suspension and Handling
    Replies: 30
    Last Post: 05-14-2009, 04:20 PM
  2. Torque Arm Install
    By TransAm11973 in forum Suspension and Handling
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-02-2008, 05:16 AM
  3. Loud thump after UMI torque arm install
    By topfig1 in forum Suspension and Handling
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 08-05-2007, 05:39 PM
  4. how to:install on BMR torque arms?
    By greatwhiteZ28 in forum Suspension and Handling
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 04-08-2007, 06:38 PM
  5. Torque Converter Install
    By ntimid8r in forum Western Members
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 08-18-2006, 08:59 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •