For those who have installed SLP bilsteins...

[justinmc978]

what additional OEM parts do I need to buy? ; what parts can I salvage from my OEM shocks,

in advance, I'm no suspension guru

[Mike's02Z28M6]

I needed nothing. Re-used stock parts. I did notice my sway bars need new bushings though.

[justinmc978]

I needed nothing. Re-used stock parts. I did notice my sway bars need new bushings though.

great thanks!

[davidz28]

possibly new bumb stops if you are lowering, but i needed nothing but the shocks. and a spring compressor

[Empatho]

I bought some swaybar end links because mine broke when I was taking them off. Besides the end links I just reused all the old parts. Good luck with the passenger side shock.

[justinmc978]

possibly new bumb stops if you are lowering, but i needed nothing but the shocks. and a spring compressor

not lowering, I rented a corvette for a few days, couldn't stand always scraping driveways

I bought some swaybar end links because mine broke when I was taking them off. Besides the end links I just reused all the old parts. Good luck with the passenger side shock.

whys that? I always thought the drivers side was harder because of the master cylinder in the way of the hex bolts on the top

[fouthgen.rocket]

I replaced my bump stops with Energy Suspension pieces that were so much better than rubber

[silverWS6]

not lowering, I rented a corvette for a few days, couldn't stand always scraping driveways



whys that? I always thought the drivers side was harder because of the master cylinder in the way of the hex bolts on the top

If you carefully unbolt the master and move it to the side a little then its a easy bolt too and when doing your shocks its not necessary to remove every single part of the rotors and such, once you remove the top bolts and the bottom bolt to the shock then you can wiggle it out. I think I loosened my sway bar and then thinking to myself "fucking working for nothing" as I was bolting it back up

[justinmc978]

I think I loosened my sway bar and then thinking to myself "fucking working for nothing" as I was bolting it back up

yeah, I wish I read this post before I wasted 7 minutes doing that.


I ended up getting the SLP spec'd Bilsteins, WOW, what a difference, aparently someone had changed the rear shocks already with Monroes that were just as terrible as the factory DeCarbons up front. speaking of which, after 130k of use, my Decarbons were so rusted I had to take a blowtorch and cut them down the middle to get them out of the spring perch.

yes. they are under flammible high pressure gas, and yes... I guess I lucked out because the hole I cut ended up being so small, that only a small amount of gas could get out over a long period of time. sitting in a vice outside the barn it sorf of looked like:



this. it was, an experience.

the tear down took me a whole day, but the build up took about 3 hours, stuff goes back in SO easy when you have new shiny parts and know how to put them together. the improved ride quality was definatly worth the $404 dollars, singed hair. and busted knuckles.

[c5z28]

Forget the exact name but a strut tower nut remover tool. Keeps the strut from spinning when you try and free that rusted sob.

Just noticed when you first posted but I'll leave the above for future people

[justinmc978]

Forget the exact name but a strut tower nut remover tool. Keeps the strut from spinning when you try and free that rusted sob.

Just noticed when you first posted but I'll leave the above for future people

the 15mm nut was so rusted it stripped instantly, I pounded a 9/16 (14.3mm) wrench onto it and used gigantic vicegrips to hold onto the flatish top part of the strut, then even that stripped. the nut and strut were basically one

after that mess I cleaned EVERYTHING, and sprayed everything with multiple layers of black epoxy paint, let it dry and put a coating of white lithium grease on top of that, if the car is around long enough to rust, it won't.

[c5z28]

I put marine grease on mine, paints probably not a bad idea.

[SMWS6TA]

Forget the exact name but a strut tower nut remover tool. Keeps the strut from spinning when you try and free that rusted sob.

Just noticed when you first posted but I'll leave the above for future people

I had to chisel mine off. Nut, what nut? I'm amazed it was still holding the spring in place. After I got the new one all together I put some RTV that will harden but will be easy to come off later so that the water doesn't pool in that pocket and corrode the nut later.

[justinmc978]

I had to chisel mine off.

why in the HELL did I not think about that... I even had an air chisel availiable.. guess I was just eager to use the blowtorch

[SMWS6TA]

why in the HELL did I not think about that... I even had an air chisel availiable.. guess I was just eager to use the blowtorch

I think I would have wanted to watch the torching.................from a distance


It was not as easy as it sounded. The spring kept absorbing the hammer blows and that nut has a very strong flange base that was hard to cut compare to the rest of the nut. I had to walk away a couple of times so that I didn't throw it threw a wall.

[justinmc978]

I think I would have wanted to watch the torching.................from a distance

my brother watched from about 30 yards away flipped out when that thing exploded

[rsg98Z28]

You may want to look into having an alignment done as well, since rmoving the shocks could possibly mess up some of youre angles, an itll drive better.