Suspension upgrade

[TACE02]

Well it is that time, got to sink some money into suspension. Pretty much done with the performance upgrades. So I was thinking Moser 9", LCA relocation brackets, double adjustable LCAs, double adjustable Panhard bar, adjustable Torque Arm (with relocation from transmission to transmission mount brace--due to my allready installed SLP double diamond SFCs takes up the tunnel brace spot), 3.5" aluminum driveshaft. I allready have but not installed tower brace and BMR heavy duty sway bar. In addition, considering QA1 12 way adjustable shocks, not sure yet.
My question I guess is: Does this sound like a good plan to start out with? I don't intend on lowering the car, at least not right now. Is there anything I might be leaving out that would be significant. I want it to handle/hook descent both on the street and the strip.
Another question, is there any difference between UMI and BMR? All the specs I can find between the 2 are either identical or extremely close. I like the UMI due to I can get gloss black, and BMR has gone to that silver vein color which I don't like. And UMI is a hair cheaper, not that that is an issue. But why pay more for the same product?

[blkSS98]

It all depends on what you want for your car? If you are more in to dragracing check out Madman and co racing, or thunder racing who is a sponsor for this site. If you want a more all around car check out BMR, Spohn, or UMI.

And, yes that is a good plan to start out.

[Eugenio_SS]

need a plan on want to accomplish before you just spend $ on the car that might not make what you are expecting out of the car.

[TACE02]

Well, as it stands right now, on a mild launch (3000 RPMs-taking it easy on the 10 bolt with 4.10 gears and ET streets with stock suspension) I cut a 1.76. But plan to do some serious launches this year, 4-6K (find the sweet spot). And would like to cut some descent 60's, somewhere between mid 1.5s to mid 1.6s would be awesome. But don't want too extreme that would handle like a tank on the road. But also hook descent on the road, for those pesky mustangs and vettes that wanna play. I have H/C and full bolt ons power wise, and want to plant some of it to the ground, finally...lol. As it stands right now I pretty much don't have 1rst thru 3rd on the street unless I feather it quite a bit...maybe I shoulda started with suspension first then move on to power...oh well, whats done is done now to finish it up for the most part.

[TACE02]

O, and I don't want to have to slow down to take a 45MPH curve at 20-30MPH. So yes, I still want some handling. I kinda want the best of both worlds, street and strip. Which isn't going to happen, so I want to gear somewhere in between. Don't want an all out drag car.

[Eugenio_SS]

since you don't want a drag car and still want the car to handle decently.
1. stay away from polyurethane LCA/PHR... those will bind and force you to take corners as you do not desire... stock ones are just great.
2. I'd keep stock springs so you can get the softer spring rate allowing for easier weight transfer control
3. given #2, I'd get some Koni SA for proper damping + adjustability... you'll have to make a choice here... lower the car ~3/4 for better handling (lower CG) or leave @ stock height for better launching weight transfer control out of the box.
Note that Koni SA offer 2 perch locations allowing for such choice.
4. another one way to improve handling is to get a bigger front bar, but that will hinder a bit @ the drag off the line... but some ppl remove the front swaybar @ the track. I'd go w/ bigger bar in front 35 or 36mm... keep stock rear.
5. alignment ... this is the cheapest improvement for handling... get it right... not factory specs.
6. might consider an aftermarket TA to help reduce wheel hop (both in braking and accelerating)... keep stock length TA upgrades... going short will kill handling/braking... especially braking... not sure you'd want that for the street.

All in all, it shouldn't cost you too much.\
keep stock springs
keep stock LCA/PHR
get Koni SA
get 35/36mm front sway bar
get proper alignment
maybe consider aftermarket TA (stock length style)

[M-Ten]

what about lca's like these :

http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=19&ModelID=8

says that it allows for a bind-free operation

[Eugenio_SS]

what about lca's like these :

http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=19&ModelID=8

says that it allows for a bind-free operation

good... but there are things that will improve it more that would be preferable to do first, imho.

[M-Ten]

oh ok i just wanted to check because you made it sound like all polyurethane lca's would bind

[Eugenio_SS]

oh ok i just wanted to check because you made it sound like all polyurethane lca's would bind

they do and that one is a bit of a compromise, while having a rod-end on the side that would bind a lot if you had poly.