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Thread: susp. install
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07-23-2006, 10:12 AM #1
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- lake in the hills, Illinois
- Age
- 35
- Posts
- 62
sebring silver- 1999 camaro z28
susp. install
how hard is it going to be to install, new spring,struts, sfc,lca,and phb????
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07-23-2006, 06:13 PM #2
are the SFC weld-in or bolt-in? the front springs, you will need a compressor. trailing arms and panhard rod are easy DIY.
Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers
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07-23-2006, 09:54 PM #3
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
- Location
- lake in the hills, Illinois
- Age
- 35
- Posts
- 62
sebring silver- 1999 camaro z28
sfc are bolt in..im worried mostly about the springs and struts....
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07-24-2006, 04:54 PM #4
the rear springs and shocks are easy work. unbolt the shocks. top location is under carpet behind rear seat. lift up body of car. this will release the tension off the rear springs. it'll take a little effort, but they will pull out. the rubber isolator may come out with it. just tape it to the new spring. install new springs. lower body of car and install shocks. fronts will require a spring compressor.
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07-24-2006, 08:27 PM #5
The only other advice I can offer you is to make sure you torque the lower control arms to spec. It's common for people not to torque them down enough and then have a "thump" coming from them when they drive. This happened to me when I had my sfc's welded in. The guy didn't torque them down enough so I had to torque them down further. There's no room on the drivers side of mine to get a torque wrench on it so you just have to go by feel. Those torque to 87 ft/lbs. It's really not a big deal, just make sure you get them tight.
You also didn't say if you have adjustable stuff or not. It's also a good idea to locktite your jam nuts if you have adjustable parts.
I did the strutts on my wifes GTP last year and I'm not sure if the f-body struts are designed the same way as I haven't pulled mine yet but on the GTP the nut on the strut itself was recessed in a dish kinda. You had to put a wrench on the nut then use an allen on the strut rod to loosen it. I couldn't get a wrench on the nut due to the dish so I put the impact gun on the nut and bumped it a few times and the nut came loose that way. Not sure if that even helps you but you never know. Struts and springs are easy to do. If it's your first time I'm sure you'll hit a couple of snags but it's really nothing that'll hold you up much if you're mechanically inclined. Just be really careful with the spring compressors and make sure they're on good and a spring isn't gonna come flying out at you. Broken bones would be a best case scenario if that happens. Good luck and post back up how everything went.
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07-31-2006, 08:37 AM #6
- Join Date
- Jun 2006
- Location
- "The good Lord sez he can get me outta this, but he sez he's pretty sure you're *****d!"
- Age
- 61
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white- 2000 SS Convertible
I just did my 00 SS Front Struts. The compressors cost $50... get the ones made for McPherson Struts, assemble them correctly and you'll b OK. You'll need a big adjustable wrench (I used a small pipe wrench for leverage) and a good set of vice grips. Set the compressors so you got 4 coils in em and set em as close to 180 opposite as you can get. Do 5 turns at a time on each side till the retaining rubber on the top of the strut is good n loose. The coils in the compressor should almost be touching at this time. DO NOT remove the top nut until you are SURE there is no spring presure remaining, or you're gonna have a scary flying thing that can hurt you and your car.
Getting the struts out is a piece of cake...maybe 30 mins at most. You do the compressing with the struts off the car. If you're gonna stick with the stock springs (I did with my Koni's), you just keep the springs compressed and put em on the new strut. Again, make sure that top bolt is on there real good before you uncompress.
Also, buy a ton of brake cleen and do your pads/rotors while you're in there and put a nice 35mm sway in there. You'll be glad you did. It's not a bad job. I could do it in half the time now that I've done it once.
Like they said the rears are a piece of cake.
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