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Thread: Sub Frame connectors
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09-29-2009, 11:33 AM #1
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
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- Kansas
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- 13
Pewter- 2002 WS6 Convertible
Sub Frame connectors
So I want to buy some subframe connectors.
Any one have anything to say about a brand in particular?
Is one better than another?
Weld on versus bolt on?
With bolt on will I have to drill the frame or use existing holes?
Thanks
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09-29-2009, 11:36 AM #2
bolt on you can use existing holes, UMI is a great brand thats what i have, personally i would rather not weld anything to my car so i went with bolt ons. Unless you plan on having MASSIVE hp, the bolts arent going to break. Now its just a matter of 3-point vs 2-point.
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09-29-2009, 12:32 PM #3
3-point weld on...end of story
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09-29-2009, 01:02 PM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
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- Florida Man Status Acheivement
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- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
If you get weld ons do they hinder you when you have to work on something underneath?
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09-29-2009, 01:19 PM #5
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09-29-2009, 02:18 PM #6
3 point UMI. Look great, fit even better.
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09-29-2009, 02:18 PM #7
U need to install them on a loaded lift, personally I went with bolt ons for 2 reasons, one i dont like anything welded to my car, and 2 u can always bolt them on and put a few spot welds, i can almost 100% guarentee they arent going anywhere unless your making crazy power
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09-29-2009, 03:26 PM #8
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- Aug 2009
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- Canada
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- 34
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- 37
Red- 1999 WS6
http://http://www.ls1.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=119417
I asked the same question a while back
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09-29-2009, 03:48 PM #9
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Location
- new jersey
- Posts
- 181
navy blue metallic- 2000 trans am
weld-ins are better. not by a huge amount, but if you plan on keeping your car for a while why not. you can still remove weld-ins if you really want. i bought mine used.
as far as interfering with anything under the car, they won't. supposedly they get in the way of one of the STS rear-mount turbo pipes but that's not all that common of an issue. if you get boxed you then have an extended jacking point which is very nice.
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09-29-2009, 05:03 PM #10
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- Sep 2009
- Location
- Eastern Shore VA
- Posts
- 5
dk green- 1998 z28
Anybody on here get a good deal on a set of 3 point weld in?
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09-29-2009, 07:12 PM #11
I got weld in umi 2 pt, made a huge diffrence. Fabricator by trade, weld in is the only to go.
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09-30-2009, 02:47 PM #12
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10-01-2009, 12:19 AM #13
supposedly weld ons are stronger and the welds wont break.......personally unless you have a car putting over 500 hp the bolts arent going to break either, and even at 500 hp its a stretch for the bolts to break.......i say bolts with spot welds if you really feel the need to weld em in there
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10-01-2009, 08:19 AM #14
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- Jun 2009
- Location
- Saint Louis, MO
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- 1,705
Arctic White & Black- '98 WS6 M6 - SWAPTIME!
3-point UMI ... love them. bolt on for now, weld on later when more power is added
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10-01-2009, 08:24 AM #15
2 point bolt-in UMI's -- they fit perfectly and tuck up under the car nice. The whole install took just over 30 minutes.
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10-01-2009, 08:30 AM #16
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- Aug 2005
- Location
- Thornton, CO
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- 23,773
Red Tint Jewelcoat- 2008 Trailblazer SS
3 point if you EVER plan on running a tunnel braced torque arm.
Otherwise a set of 2 points is perfectly fine.
WELD-IN ONLY!!!
The bolts won't break, that is very true.
But they will shift. And they aren't as rigid as the weld-in variety.
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10-01-2009, 08:33 AM #17
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10-01-2009, 08:46 AM #18
I went with 3 point bolt on UMI. I will eventally weld them in. They tuck nice easy install
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10-01-2009, 06:58 PM #19
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10-02-2009, 09:21 AM #20
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- NYC
- Posts
- 1,460
Navy Blue Metallic- 2000 T/A Firehawk M6
I went with the 3 point UMI bolt in set up. Got the Chassis stiffening package from sam that included the UMI STB. After lowering I have come to realize that the SFC's act as a sort of sacrifice to the road gods when you try to drive over things. better to smash a replaceable bar than to smash your floorpan! Can't say the same for the 2 point bars since they tuck in real nice and invisible like. though I haven't had much issue with my 3 points. make the car a lot more solid feeling.
Magnaflow cat back, adj KYB's, 3 point SFC's, STB, LCA reloc, adj LCA's, SLP lid, Fernco bellows, Strano Springs, Drag Bags, Tick adj Master cylinder, Monster stage3 clutch, speed bleeder, Billet flywheel, MGW shifter, !CAGS
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