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12-01-2014, 04:14 PM #1
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Location
- near Fort Hood, TX
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- 412
blue- 2002 Trans Am
starting my list for suspension parts, any help welcome
I have a 02 T/A and what I use the car for is mainly a daily driver and long road trips to pick up my boys on the weekends I have them which is about a 2.5 hour drive one way. So I still want to keep it somewhat friendly for the trips. My question is that I want it to be add some suspension, but not go overboard on mods, being that I have done full suspension on a couple different Mustang's but new to the F-bodies. My question is what would be first item to change out and what brand. I do not care if it is all the same brand and do not care for the highest price item. I would rather pay for what is good and go from there. So just wonder if I could get a little help on what to start with, but keep a close smooth ride. I do not mind the stock ride height.
Thanks and God Bless
ASh
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12-01-2014, 06:00 PM #2
First item, hands down, is subframe connectors. You can get 2-pt or 3-pt, and weld-on or bolt-on. I opted for 2-pt weld-on. There are several vendors to choose from, but I would suggest BMR or UMI. UMI is a site sponsor and makes very high quality products and their customer service is great.
Some other options could be:
- Shocks
- Lowering springs
- Pan hard bar
- Lower control arms
- Torque arm
- Sway bars
I have everything aside from sway bars at the moment so feel free to pick my brain (even on those if you want). Pretty well versed on this stuff and 4th gens in generally.
My signature shows my mods as reference.Boost gets you laid, unless your name is Jon.
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12-01-2014, 08:41 PM #3
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
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- near Fort Hood, TX
- Posts
- 412
blue- 2002 Trans Am
Thanks yes I was thinking of the subframe connectors for sure. I do like BMR, I used almost all there suspension parts on my 13 Mustang GT on the suspension parts I did, which was a bunch. the T/A has a 109K miles on it so I was thinking about shocks and struts come pretty soon. The lowering springs I do have some concern because every Mustang I've put them on, they always took away the ride, made it handle great, but took about from the stock ride comfort. The closest I found and have used on two Mustang's so far is the Eibach pro-kit, drop looked good but the ride was much better than the other two brands I have used in the past on Mustang's.
I will be posting up more on this, I just did a whole Moser 9in rear end with PST drive shaft and Diablo Sport InTune, so need to hold off till throw some more money into the T/A. The person who had the car before me, thought it be good idea to take almost all the speakers out and so I really want to get new speakers put in, before moving on to other parts, the CD/NAV/DVD play they left in there is fixing to get swap out to a Sony CD player I picked up because the CD player part won't read CD's so that is a must and just waiting for it to get back from the shop and then the CD player is going in. Thanks again and I just like to go ahead and have everything lined up before hand. Thanks and God Bless
ASh
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12-02-2014, 11:41 AM #4
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
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- Florida Man Status Acheivement
- Posts
- 11,759
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Agree with Jon. Only thing I would switch is to get 3 pt over 2 pt. 3 pt just came out from UMI right after I installed my weld in 2 points. You can see my signature as well, me and Jon have very similar suspension setup.
Also if you lower it, you'll need to get adjustable so the drive train gets back in line.Last edited by SMWS6TA; 12-02-2014 at 11:44 AM.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
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6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
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12-02-2014, 01:32 PM #5
I changed mine out with 12,000 miles on my car to Sam Strano's lowering springs coupled with Koni 4/4 on-car adjustable shocks and the stance looks about perfect for what I wanted; 1.25" drop. Some say the ride gets more firm. Truthfully, I didn't notice much difference in ride quality, but then again, my car only has 25,000 miles now so I don't drive it regularly. Does handle better though. Rears are set at full soft and the fronts are at 2-3 sweeps from full soft. Pretty sure there's 10 or 12 settings with the Koni's.
You'll notice your rear-end will sit up a little higher than stock with the 9". At least mine did, so lowering it 1.25" was perfect. No clearance issues. I have about 3/4 of a pop can worth of clearance from the lowest part of the Kooks collector.
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12-02-2014, 08:36 PM #6
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
- Location
- Jamestown, NC
- Posts
- 355
Red- 99 Z28
Here is my take on this. I have good relations with BMR and MWC, but my friends have had great success with UMI and there parts are good as well. My street car has all bmr and my race car has all MWC. Subframe connectors make sure you get the ones that actually connect the subframes, if you get bolt ons I always weld them as well but me personally buy the weld in time. I always go at my cars with the same agenda. I start at the back and work my way forward. This way the car is built around one center of thinking and not just mis matching.
Lower control arms (non adj will be good for you) I have them and been quick on them
ADJ panhard bar.
Lca relocation brackets
Bigger rear sway bar (NOT anti roll bar)
Torque arm
Good set of shocks. (My nitrous car has strange, my Turbo car has Vikings)
Nice set of springs
K member and upper and lower a arms package
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12-02-2014, 08:41 PM #7
Note that if you decide to get a rear sway bar, you also want to get a front sway for it to match....they work together.
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12-02-2014, 08:44 PM #8
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Location
- near Fort Hood, TX
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- 412
blue- 2002 Trans Am
Thanks guys,
Truly happy with this forum, I am one that like for people to be helpful instead of rude to newbies and y'all have done a amazing job just being kind with all the questions I ask.
I think first sub-frame connectors are going to come, but that could change
For sure think new shocks/struts and koni is probably who I will be going with.
Thanks again and God Bless
ASh
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12-02-2014, 08:49 PM #9
No problem. Just for reference, the 4th gen cars all have (4) shocks - no struts.
BTW - I head down to TX 1-2x a year for work. Been all over that state, actually.
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12-02-2014, 08:56 PM #10
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
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- near Fort Hood, TX
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- 412
blue- 2002 Trans Am
Well now, I feel like a turd saying struts, sorry about that and been around Mustang's to long with what parts go on them.
Well thanks I learned something new now.
TX is so big, lol its the one state you can start from bottom to top or side to side and still be in the state driving all day
I'm born and raised Texan up in the Panhandle area, after I got medical Retired from getting injuried on my last deployment I came down here, being that my ex-wife is from Houston and that is where my boys are, but my wife retired out of Fort Hood, so we are doing ministry here now with Veterans, truly a blessing
ASh
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12-02-2014, 09:10 PM #11
Good deal and thanks for your service. No worries on the shocks/struts...very common actually.
I've been to Houston, Dallas, Orange, Longview, Fort Worth, San Antonio and a couple other cities to date. Try getting down there in the winter months to warm up lol. I'm near Chicago.
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12-02-2014, 10:19 PM #12
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- Nov 2014
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- near Fort Hood, TX
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- 412
blue- 2002 Trans Am
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01-09-2015, 01:19 PM #13
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Pa
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- 137
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01-09-2015, 04:14 PM #14
I was going to comment on this thread, but I also decided to post a thread that quotes (apparently) Sam Strano on how to make a car handle well. Here is the link:
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f66/sam-st...5/#post2915469
I also agree with the prevailing comments above. 1st priority should be subframe connectors.
Following that, I happened to really enjoy my car on stock springs with Koni shocks and Strano's sway bars. I eventually upgraded to Strano Springs. And the initial difference (my car was 15 years old when they were installed) was very noticeable. Now, either they are "broken in" or I am just accustomed to it, but the ride is great: firm and well controlled, but not jarring.
For me, any mod that I do that is meant to address a handling issue will always be the lightest weight option I can afford. Chromemoly everything for me. Basically means I have to save up a little longer. Not sure how much difference it's making, as I don't have a basis for comparison, but a pound her and there will eventually add up; and before I know it, my car is 200 lbs heavier, so I try to keep it all as light as possible.
The other thing I'm trying to decide on is a Watts link. I've read they are better than a panhard bar set up, but I'm not worried about it for the time being, as I'm looking at brakes and a rear end as the next step in my build.
In case you haven't considered it yet, think about your tires, too. I switched from some Goodyear Eagle F1s to some Michelin Pilot All Seasons and the Michelins blew the Goodyears away in both dry and wet traction (even though the Goodyears were "summer" tires). Now, Michelin has upgraded their all season again (the A/S 3, they call it) and they also have the Super Sports. I believe that either of those options will make the best of your suspension. If you live in an area that gets freezing weather, go with the all seasons (or if you just want longer tread life). Otherwise, I'd recommend the Super Sports; they are the best performing street tire on the market right now.Last edited by Naaman; 01-09-2015 at 04:28 PM.
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02-06-2015, 05:08 PM #15
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- near Fort Hood, TX
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blue- 2002 Trans Am
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02-06-2015, 05:31 PM #16
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- near Fort Hood, TX
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blue- 2002 Trans Am
Ok so had some time to think and might be wrong, but here is what my thinking is, I figure that the springs for the firehawk can't be that bad, but handle way better than the T/A ones. I found a nice price on Eibach Pro Kit (which I've used on two of the three Mustang's I've own and liked) and Bilstien Shocks for $700 shipped. Now I have heard great things about KYB and Koni shocks. So I'm up in the air on which brand. Bilstein heard nothing but amazing things from them and people that used them. Now I already have my BMR rear sway bar brackets that bolt up. So with that I will more than likely go with BMR rear sway bar and to match the BMR front sway bar.
Really the only other thing I can think of is upgrading the PHB, get full length weld on sub frame connectors, and maybe switch to a strong rear control arm.
So this is what I have now in my head that is going around after thinking.
Any thoughts or comments welcome
Again I'm new to the F-bodies, always been a Mustang guy and know which stuff to go with on them
ASh
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02-06-2015, 08:16 PM #17
Are you planning on getting it all at once or... ?
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02-06-2015, 08:25 PM #18
Koni's are the best, hands down. Bilstein would be second best for shocks. Heard good and bad things about KYB. Some have had success with them while others say KYB = Keeps You Bouncing. That's my .02 on shocks.
I have UMI's on-car adjustable PHB and have zero complaints. I was very happy with the quality and workmanship of the part.
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02-07-2015, 02:19 AM #19
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- Aug 2007
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- Greensboro, NC
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- 39
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- 1,335
Pewter- 2002 Trans Am WS6 M6
Konis hands down if you want the best. I've noticed a lot of guys going with vikings setup in the last few months. Give Sam strano a call if you really can't decide. He can tell you exactly what setup to go with depending on what you want and how much you wanna spend. Plus his springs are awesome if your going more for handling then drag racing.
Mods - Lid, Skip Shift Eliminator, MGW shifter, UMI SFCs, Founders Lower Control Arms, Founders Panhard Bar, Founders Adj. Torque Arm, UMI Torque arm mount, MWC Drive shaft safety loop, KONI Yellows, Strano Springs, Strano Sway bars, UMI Upper and lower A Arms, 160 thermostat, TSP headers and TSP true duals Monster stage 2 clutch, racetronix fuel pump, Strange S60 rear axle and tune by Frost.
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02-07-2015, 06:40 PM #20
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- Nov 2014
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- near Fort Hood, TX
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blue- 2002 Trans Am
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