Spohn Torque Arm

[topgun1851]

Starting to hear some noises from my torque arm because its starting to loosen up. When I got under the car and started shaking it around to see where it loosened up, I found it where it attaches to the braces that attaches to the car (see pic, loose at the arrow). At the arrow, I can move the joint up and down 1/8-1/4 inch. The torque arm has been on the car for less than a year. Anyone have advise how to tighten it up, or what can be done to fix/prevent it from happening again? Thanks in advance.

[mg98ta]

Are the bolts loose or is the bushing worn? If it is just the bolts loose, u could put a little red loctite on the bolts(note: a little) or u could use a lock washer. This should help and prevent the bolts from coming loose again. If it is the bushing worn out, u may want ta call Spohn for a new one or to see if it is warrantied.

[INMY01TA]

Been my experience those tunnel mounted torque arms are just plain noisy. I had mine on for a week and hated it. No matter how hard I tightened everything it clunked. Also the gear whine from my Strange 12 bolt was amplified x 10,000 from the ta being bolted right to the floor of the car.

[bob1esq]

Actually, a little bit of clunk may be a good thing. What causes that is going from decel to accel or visa versa. When you accel, your dif nose rotates upward. When you brake, your dif nose rotates downward. A little bit of clunk allows your dif to rotate a little bit. With no rotation, your dif will act like a polevault, which may be ok for off the line drag racing only if you have enough traction to handle that kind of hit, But this polevault action is really bad for hard braking. You could end up with some very serious brake hop on hard braking. By allowing the dif to rotate a little bit you are distributing the torque transfer, allowing the springs to absorb some of the power being put to your rear wheels. This will cause the transfer of torque to your rear wheels to slow down, not be applied all at once.