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Thread: shocks/springs

  1. #1
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    shocks/springs

    im just curios on how hard is to change shocks and springs?
    im gonna lower my car wit stranos and bilsteins, but im curios if i could do it my self..
    the shop charges me $300 for labor on springs and shocks
    and i dnt wanna pay that much, i knw basics on mechanics..
    what tools do i need to get it done?
    i knw i have to take the struts to the shop so they can put the new shock and springs. thats $20 if i just take the parts..

    any advice on how to do it,
    i appreciate the help
    00 ss blk m6 " STOCK" strano springs, slp bilstein shocks, adj LCA, adj panhard bar, relocation brackets, 2 point SFCs welded,OEM zo6 rims black, magnaflow exhaust, CME exhaust,E/cutout, slp grille, custom front plate mount, HIDs, whistler mod, side moldings delete, slp air lid, ported and polished TB, strut tower brace, 3.73s gears, and some other parts to list!
    next to come,4.10s,ls7 clutch, ms3 or 228r cam, ported 243s, ls6 intake, ls6 oil pump. ls2 timing chain, longtube headers no cats, with a tune..
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  2. #2
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Pitman arm puller or a pickle fork for this part (look at the rubber boot just above the guys hand)

    A spring compressor preferably with a strut nut tool to keep it from spinning. Have done it at home a couple of times, and all tools are available at your local auto parts store.
    ls1howto, installuniversity or here in the suspension section have right ups on how to do this at home.

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    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    Thanks bro.

    Is it hard to do that job?

    I'm new to that and I want to have an idea how to do it.

    I'll see if I can find some write-ups.

  4. #4
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    ls1howto is the one that has it.
    It's dirty, and compressing the spring is a bit nerving if you know what kind of damage they can do if suddenly released. That said I have done it with friends and by myself on multiple occasions so it's not out of anyone's realm. If you want I have just about all the tools (have to see if I have that strut mount tool) come on over and we'll knock it out. Oh and you'll be buying lunch.

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    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    ls1howto is the one that has it.
    It's dirty, and compressing the spring is a bit nerving if you know what kind of damage they can do if suddenly released. That said I have done it with friends and by myself on multiple occasions so it's not out of anyone's realm. If you want I have just about all the tools (have to see if I have that strut mount tool) come on over and we'll knock it out. Oh and you'll be buying lunch.
    thanks bro i will man.. i will buy lunch and tekila lol

    i have no tools i could buy them lol
    and i dnt have much of experience either lol

    how long will it take to get it done?

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    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    question... why the master cylinder nuts have to get removed?

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    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    Two bolts for the struts are under there, look under your hood and try and get in there. These shocks and springs come assembled? If so you can bypass the whole shock dissasembly nightmare.

  8. #8
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by c5z28 View Post
    Two bolts for the struts are under there, look under your hood and try and get in there. These shocks and springs come assembled? If so you can bypass the whole shock dissasembly nightmare.
    so im gonna have to bleed the brake lines? or just put the nuts back?

    they come separate, so i guess i have to disassemble the whole thing

  9. #9
    Member c5z28's Avatar
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    The master cylinder and the brake booster are connected by a rod. in this pic it's figure 31

    Here you can see the internals of a brake booster

    Removing one from the other does not result in a loss of fluid. However if you do see fluid between the two structures that is another problem.

    If anything you can practice for the swap by doing bits of it like detaching the master cylinder, undoing the sway bar end links, taking a strut out of the car and then putting it back in (actually not a bad idea to hit that nut on top of the strut with some penetrant since our models seem to collect water, dirt, rocks and leaves) . This way 2-4 hours of work won't be so frustrating because you will have already done it before, a lot of time is wasted the 1st time around looking at instructions and finding tools.

  10. #10
    Senior Member 98maro's Avatar
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    thanks for the info bro,,

    i think its gonna be a little harder than i thought lol
    but i have to start somewhere and get it done,,,
    i want to learn how to do stuff man cuz mechanics abuse sometimes

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