rear lower control arms

[teal monster]

i am getting ready to put some new lower control arms on with a new panhard rod. how bad are they to put on? any tricks to it? it dose not look like it will be too bad. will the bolts come off with out removing the rear brake rotors? thanx.

[2001NBMZ28]

I used a lift when I installed adjustable LCA's and APHR on my car - easy install, just do one at a time. Didn't even take the rear wheels off, no need to worry about the brake rotors.

[teal monster]

you got it made with the lift, i do not have one. i will be on my back doing this. i was going to put it up on jackstands. i was going to put them under the rear axle. is that ok to do?

[2001NBMZ28]

I didn't use a drive on lift - the rear was just hanging down. Not a good idea to support the rear under the axles for this - put the stands under the frame to get the car up high enough.

[TommySS]

I'm thinkin that the suspension has to be loaded before tightening to spec. You can install 'em with the weight off the suspension, but the final torque is done wheels down.

I used two sets of Rhino Ramps

[fredg369]

I had them on my 95 bird.Had to take them off,just making to much knocking noise.
They were tightened about 3 times,then I just gave up and put the stock ones back on.
I did hear somewhere that the rear should be loaded when installed.
You are gona get alot of road noise...and i hope you don't get the knocking problem like I had.It will drive you crazy if its your daily driver.
Felt like the car was binding alittle to.
The subframe connectors,get them worth the money.(weld in).
The panhard rod,not bad I had no problems with it.
The LCA's for a daily driver sucks IMO.

[00SSVERT]

They are a piece of cake. Suport w/ jackstands on the frame and use a floor jack under the center of the diff. to load the suspension before you torque them down. I agree they are very noisy and the weld broke on one end of mine so I got my stockers back out and pressed stainless round stock into the holes of the 4 stock rubber bushings. That eliminated both the clunking noises and the wheel hop. "FREE MOD"

[sonnyred]

They are a piece of cake. Suport w/ jackstands on the frame and use a floor jack under the center of the diff. to load the suspension before you torque them down. I agree they are very noisy and the weld broke on one end of mine so I got my stockers back out and pressed stainless round stock into the holes of the 4 stock rubber bushings. That eliminated both the clunking noises and the wheel hop. "FREE MOD"

Great idea. What do you think of a piece of quater inch steel plate running full lenth of the lca an bolted through the holes? Any ideas on this?

[MadSeason]

Just remeber a breaker bar, a blow torch, and some penetrating oil can be your best friend. Was a pain to get the suspension off my camaro when it had 120k miles on it. But was a piece of cake swapping it between my firehawk when I bought that

[BIG D's SS]

Like they said before make sure when you torque them that it is on the ground.

[00SSVERT]

Great idea. What do you think of a piece of quater inch steel plate running full lenth of the lca an bolted through the holes? Any ideas on this?

I don't think there is enough room in the mounting brackets. You could box the LCA's as some do for strength. Another thing I did was slightly enlarge the mount holes and used SAE bolts for a tighter fit in the bushing.

[teal monster]

thank you for the info guys. how come they make noise? what kind of noise do they make? i put the panhard rod on allready. now i am not sure about the lca.

[bad99ta]

My LCAs don't make any noise, but you can definitely feel more of the road with them on.

[01 Red WS6]

My PHB and LCAs were easy to put on and I did it in my driveway. Didn't take long at all. It's time for me to pull the LCAs and put new rod ends in since they are making all kinds of noise now