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Thread: Parts to Order List BMR*
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03-14-2006, 08:01 PM #1
Parts to Order List BMR*
OK so ive been reading around and as usual on a forum everything contradicts everything else so after hours of reading comparing and exploring I am, as usual left more confused and less settled than i was at the start.
This is what i've decided to get in two seperate orders as listed. I went with bmr all around. Look good seem to get good reviews overall and are decently priced. So heres the List, please feel free to rip it apart and give good reasons as to why im an idiot so i can spend my $ wisely.
Car is dragged monthly and im looking for off the line & 60 ft 1/4 mile improvement. I do drive on the street but am not overly concerned with a smooth ride or a quiet one. Never really bothered by cabin noise. With that in mind begin the critiquing.
All from BMR*
#1 Custom Selection total* - $660.85
-Boxed non-adj Control Arms - $181.00
-Boxed Subframe Connectors - $169.95
-Rear Sway Bar 21mm - $179.95
-Shock Tower Brace - $129.95
#2 Lowering Package total* - $716.85
-One inch lowering springs
-Adj. Panhard Rod
-Control Arm relocation brackets
+ -Driveshaft Safety Loop - $99.95
+ -Front Sway Bar - $186.95
Order #1 will be made within the week
Order #2 within the month
Thanks in advanceLast edited by WinSomeLoseNone; 03-14-2006 at 08:04 PM.
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03-14-2006, 08:14 PM #2
i see nothing wrong with the list. i have BMR on the wife's car.
trailing arms
strut tower brace
panhard rod
torque arm
personally, i would do #1 this way:
-Boxed non-adj Control Arms - $181.00
-Boxed Subframe Connectors - $169.95
-Shock Tower Brace - $129.95
-Adj. Panhard Rod
-Control Arm relocation brackets
if you are looking for better 60ft and drag, lose the front sway bar completely. this will allow the front to rise higher and transfer more weight to the rear. granted, i've done a 1.709 60ft with the front sway bar still in my black car. i should take it out one of these days.Last edited by mrr23; 03-14-2006 at 08:16 PM.
Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers
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03-14-2006, 08:24 PM #3
I would lose the front swaybar but i had a buddy tell me that doing this would lease me in a ditch after sliding off the road in a somewhat tight turn. Not that i road race but he said that removing the front sway bar on a street driven car can have bad results. Then again hes driving a 5.0
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03-15-2006, 02:10 PM #4
well, you get less cornering ability because it's not there anymore. when turning, the front will want to lift up as well. i've driven around for years without one. if you lose it in a corner, it's because you were doing something stupid to begin with.
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03-15-2006, 05:43 PM #5Originally Posted by mrr23
But honestly is the advantage gained from removing the front sway bar enough to offset the handling handicap.
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03-17-2006, 10:46 PM #6
- Join Date
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triple-black- 2000 CamaroSS convertible
I would make sure I wouldn't get the BMR PHR... they simply fail and put you in the ditch.
Also, the boxed LCAs is a bad idea... just creates bind for no reason, hindering rear traction when cornering slightly.Eugenio_SS
almost stock triple-black 2000 SS convertible with 17x11s on all 4 w/ 315s at the track or on the street with 18x10.5s on all 4 w/ 315s: (1), (2)
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03-18-2006, 08:18 AM #7Originally Posted by WinSomeLoseNone
eugenio - i've had those same BMR parts on the wife's car for over a year now. and bought them used. haven't had my panhard rod fail yet. and i don't corner slowly either. granted not as hard as you would at an autocross event.
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03-18-2006, 08:09 PM #8Originally Posted by Eugenio_SS
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03-19-2006, 05:29 PM #9
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I didn't see any shocks to go along with the lowering springs. The stock shocks are not valved for lowering springs. You will need to get revalved Bilsteins or Koni SAs. I am going with the Koni SAs and leaving the stock springs. A few modifications and I can get 3/4" drop without changing the stock springs using the Koni SAs. Talk to Sam Strano about lowering the car. He will help you with the details.
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03-19-2006, 07:33 PM #10Originally Posted by sills1
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03-19-2006, 07:38 PM #11
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I was just pointing out the fact that you can lower your car without buying lowering springs. Also, I was pointing out that springs alone is not a valid option for lowering your car. They Koni SAs will lower your car with additional modification that can be done while changing the shocks. Give Sam Strano at Stranoparts.com a call and he will help you make the RIGHT decision. Don't do it without talking to someone like him who knows his stuff when it comes to suspension on an F-body. Good luck with your car bro
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03-23-2006, 02:25 PM #12
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triple-black- 2000 CamaroSS convertible
Originally Posted by WinSomeLoseNone
boxed will hinder cornering.... and only offer more support on a straight line, and removing the freedom of movement when cornering, causing the bind.
I'm not against boxing... just pointing that it might not be what you want.
I would go with a tubular and good rod ends on both sides... good for both applications and strong.
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03-23-2006, 05:30 PM #13Originally Posted by Eugenio_SS
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03-23-2006, 09:21 PM #14
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triple-black- 2000 CamaroSS convertible
Originally Posted by WinSomeLoseNone
You could ride on my car and not know that I have rodends and spring rate 2x the stock one.
To get back to the discussion, if you aren't going w/ rod ends, that allow free movement when turning, the 2nd best choice is the stock style with rubber.
the worse approach is to use polyurethane, which will bind... hence why I suggested earlier to keep stock ones.
might wounder why lots of companies selling polyurethane ? well, simple fact is that most f-body owners are into drag than anything else when comes times to mod.
And for the noise, I've gone to polyurethane LCA/PHR, rod-ends that weren't that great, and great rod-ends.
in all honesty, the worse I had was the polyurethane (loudest w/ squish-squish) and lots of bind, followed by the not so good rod-ends (clunking), then stock and the final setup I have now.
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03-24-2006, 08:03 PM #15Originally Posted by Eugenio_SS
so now ive got to choose between BMR Spohn and UMI.. im totally lostLast edited by WinSomeLoseNone; 03-24-2006 at 08:12 PM.
2000 Z28 m6
Current Mods-GMMG catback-UMI Diamond SFC's-Pacesetter LT's-ORY-HSW Wet Shot-Pro 5.0-Rebuilt Race Trans-Spec3+-Pacesetter LT's-FRA mod-TBBypass-Whisper Lid-
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03-25-2006, 04:01 AM #16
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triple-black- 2000 CamaroSS convertible
good phr aren't too cheap, but there is nothing wrong w/ the stock one, you can keep it until you make your mind... and at least you won't be hindering your handling.
If you call www.stranoparts.com I'm sure you'll get a great price/service and be sure you are getting the parts that will suit your needs.
PHR that I would consider would be from UnbalancedEngineering, LG, Trackbird Engineering. They all offer great rod-ends... the others, welll... not necessarily, and I would definitely stay away from the BMR PHR since they are know to fail.
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03-25-2006, 04:03 AM #17
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triple-black- 2000 CamaroSS convertible
btw, you don't have to buy parts from all the same manufacturer, you know.
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03-26-2006, 05:13 AM #18
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Pewter- 2000 Camaro SS
Definitely give Stranoparts.com the chance to help you. Sam knows his stuff inside and out. Just tell him what you want out of the car and how much you have to spend and he'll steer you in the right direction.
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03-26-2006, 08:20 AM #19
Frankly, Sam Strano scares me. He seems so intimidating after everything i've heard about him. However after the past month of constant researching of parts from these companies UMI, Spohn, Bmr, and Hotchkis (if there is others i should look at i dont care) I looked at the exact same parts to compare pricing, material, (Chrome Moly, Steel) dimensions, (thickness) type, (rod ended, bushing) and over quality of product. I went through and added got a list of all the same items from each and every manufacturer. I then compared all of the above things. After this i went through and eliminated one by one the parts that did not make the cut. In the end i was left with a list that has a very good price with EVERYTHING in chrome moly and the PHR and LCA rod ended.
Please notice that I have decided to scrap the whole lowering idea (I do drag and lowering is not a great idea) and have gone with just performance. This list took a long ass time to make and its funny how it turned out. Take a look.
Spohn Order - $1343.40
=Adj. Torque Arm w/ Long tubes + $395.00
-Color Bright Red
-Driveshaft Loop Front Loop + $40.00
-Chrome Moly Spherical Rod End + $15.00
-Material Type 4130 Chrome Moly + $115.00
-Mounting Hardware + $19.95
=25mm Solid Chrome Moly Rear Sway Bar + $147.50
=Pan Hard Bar Rod ended Chrome Moly + $170.00
-Chrome Moly + $30.00
=Control Arms Rod End Chrome Moly + $245.00
-Chrome Moly + $30.00
-Mounting Hardware + $10.95
=Tubular Shock Tower Brace Chrome Moly + $85.00
-Chrome Moly + $40.00
UMI Order - $279.99
=Three Point Bolt-in Sub frame + $279.99
Yes, theres alot of Spohn. They did have the best price, same as BMR (with steel) but with rod end and chrome moly. The UMI SFC's have the triangle design and I have read everywhere that they just do a better job of stiffening the unibody. The ONLY thing that worries me is that the Spohn rod ends will fail. Does anyone know if I can count on them?
Is it
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