Parts to Order List BMR*

**WinSomeLoseNone** · 03-14-2006, 08:01 PM

OK so ive been reading around and as usual on a forum everything contradicts everything else so after hours of reading comparing and exploring I am, as usual left more confused and less settled than i was at the start.

This is what i've decided to get in two seperate orders as listed. I went with bmr all around. Look good seem to get good reviews overall and are decently priced. So heres the List, please feel free to rip it apart and give good reasons as to why im an idiot so i can spend my $ wisely.
Car is dragged monthly and im looking for off the line & 60 ft 1/4 mile improvement. I do drive on the street but am not overly concerned with a smooth ride or a quiet one. Never really bothered by cabin noise. With that in mind begin the critiquing.

All from BMR*
#1 Custom Selection total* - $660.85
-Boxed non-adj Control Arms - $181.00
-Boxed Subframe Connectors - $169.95
-Rear Sway Bar 21mm - $179.95
-Shock Tower Brace - $129.95

#2 Lowering Package total* - $716.85
-One inch lowering springs
-Adj. Panhard Rod
-Control Arm relocation brackets
+ -Driveshaft Safety Loop - $99.95
+ -Front Sway Bar - $186.95

Order #1 will be made within the week
Order #2 within the month
Thanks in advance

**mrr23** · 03-14-2006, 08:14 PM

i see nothing wrong with the list. i have BMR on the wife's car.

trailing arms
strut tower brace
panhard rod
torque arm

personally, i would do #1 this way:

-Boxed non-adj Control Arms - $181.00
-Boxed Subframe Connectors - $169.95
-Shock Tower Brace - $129.95
-Adj. Panhard Rod
-Control Arm relocation brackets

if you are looking for better 60ft and drag, lose the front sway bar completely. this will allow the front to rise higher and transfer more weight to the rear. granted, i've done a 1.709 60ft with the front sway bar still in my black car. i should take it out one of these days.

**WinSomeLoseNone** · 03-14-2006, 08:24 PM

I would lose the front swaybar but i had a buddy tell me that doing this would lease me in a ditch after sliding off the road in a somewhat tight turn. Not that i road race but he said that removing the front sway bar on a street driven car can have bad results. Then again hes driving a 5.0

**mrr23** · 03-15-2006, 02:10 PM

well, you get less cornering ability because it's not there anymore. when turning, the front will want to lift up as well. i've driven around for years without one. if you lose it in a corner, it's because you were doing something stupid to begin with.

**WinSomeLoseNone** · 03-15-2006, 05:43 PM

Originally Posted by mrr23

well, you get less cornering ability because it's not there anymore. when turning, the front will want to lift up as well. i've driven around for years without one. if you lose it in a corner, it's because you were doing something stupid to begin with.

true enough. but running from the 5-0 is essential to my lively hood as well as something I shouldnt be doing<---------------Just kidding around

But honestly is the advantage gained from removing the front sway bar enough to offset the handling handicap.

**Eugenio_SS** · 03-17-2006, 10:46 PM

I would make sure I wouldn't get the BMR PHR... they simply fail and put you in the ditch.
Also, the boxed LCAs is a bad idea... just creates bind for no reason, hindering rear traction when cornering slightly.

**mrr23** · 03-18-2006, 08:18 AM

Originally Posted by WinSomeLoseNone

Car is dragged monthly and im looking for off the line & 60 ft 1/4 mile improvement.

that's what he is more interested in.

eugenio - i've had those same BMR parts on the wife's car for over a year now. and bought them used. haven't had my panhard rod fail yet. and i don't corner slowly either. granted not as hard as you would at an autocross event.

**WinSomeLoseNone** · 03-18-2006, 08:09 PM

Originally Posted by Eugenio_SS

the boxed LCAs is a bad idea... just creates bind for no reason, hindering rear traction when cornering slightly.

You sure about this. Ive heard that if the car is dragged boxed is the way to go. They create a rougher ride but are better for drag racing due to the added support. If you are against the boxed lca's are you suggesting that i get tubular or none at all?

**sills1** · 03-19-2006, 05:29 PM

I didn't see any shocks to go along with the lowering springs. The stock shocks are not valved for lowering springs. You will need to get revalved Bilsteins or Koni SAs. I am going with the Koni SAs and leaving the stock springs. A few modifications and I can get 3/4" drop without changing the stock springs using the Koni SAs. Talk to Sam Strano about lowering the car. He will help you with the details.

**WinSomeLoseNone** · 03-19-2006, 07:33 PM

Originally Posted by sills1

I didn't see any shocks to go along with the lowering springs. The stock shocks are not valved for lowering springs. You will need to get revalved Bilsteins or Koni SAs. I am going with the Koni SAs and leaving the stock springs. A few modifications and I can get 3/4" drop without changing the stock springs using the Koni SAs. Talk to Sam Strano about lowering the car. He will help you with the details.

As with anyone my funds are limited, and, last I read the BMR lowering springs will not only lower but stiffn your ride. I know that shocks are an essential part of lowering but i really dont have another 400.00 to throw at my car at the moment. As of now ive only had it for 2 months and have already thrown about 3 grand at it. Then again its an addiction.

**sills1** · 03-19-2006, 07:38 PM

I was just pointing out the fact that you can lower your car without buying lowering springs. Also, I was pointing out that springs alone is not a valid option for lowering your car. They Koni SAs will lower your car with additional modification that can be done while changing the shocks. Give Sam Strano at Stranoparts.com a call and he will help you make the RIGHT decision. Don't do it without talking to someone like him who knows his stuff when it comes to suspension on an F-body. Good luck with your car bro

**Eugenio_SS** · 03-23-2006, 02:25 PM

Originally Posted by WinSomeLoseNone

You sure about this. Ive heard that if the car is dragged boxed is the way to go. They create a rougher ride but are better for drag racing due to the added support. If you are against the boxed lca's are you suggesting that i get tubular or none at all?

as you mentionned, for drag.
boxed will hinder cornering.... and only offer more support on a straight line, and removing the freedom of movement when cornering, causing the bind.
I'm not against boxing... just pointing that it might not be what you want.
I would go with a tubular and good rod ends on both sides... good for both applications and strong.

**WinSomeLoseNone** · 03-23-2006, 05:30 PM

Originally Posted by Eugenio_SS

as you mentionned, for drag.
boxed will hinder cornering.... and only offer more support on a straight line, and removing the freedom of movement when cornering, causing the bind.
I'm not against boxing... just pointing that it might not be what you want.
I would go with a tubular and good rod ends on both sides... good for both applications and strong.

Point taken, Ill go with tubular. However i will not go with rod ends because i have heard issues of breaking down and really annoying squeaking. poly/rubber is what im looking at. Oh and on another note everything on the list is being ordered in Chrome Moly

**Eugenio_SS** · 03-23-2006, 09:21 PM

Originally Posted by WinSomeLoseNone

Point taken, Ill go with tubular. However i will not go with rod ends because i have heard issues of breaking down and really annoying squeaking. poly/rubber is what im looking at. Oh and on another note everything on the list is being ordered in Chrome Moly

true only on not good quality rod-ends.
You could ride on my car and not know that I have rodends and spring rate 2x the stock one.
To get back to the discussion, if you aren't going w/ rod ends, that allow free movement when turning, the 2nd best choice is the stock style with rubber.
the worse approach is to use polyurethane, which will bind... hence why I suggested earlier to keep stock ones.
might wounder why lots of companies selling polyurethane ? well, simple fact is that most f-body owners are into drag than anything else when comes times to mod.
And for the noise, I've gone to polyurethane LCA/PHR, rod-ends that weren't that great, and great rod-ends.
in all honesty, the worse I had was the polyurethane (loudest w/ squish-squish) and lots of bind, followed by the not so good rod-ends (clunking), then stock and the final setup I have now.

**WinSomeLoseNone** · 03-24-2006, 08:03 PM

Originally Posted by Eugenio_SS

true only on not good quality rod-ends.
You could ride on my car and not know that I have rodends and spring rate 2x the stock one.
To get back to the discussion, if you aren't going w/ rod ends, that allow free movement when turning, the 2nd best choice is the stock style with rubber.
the worse approach is to use polyurethane, which will bind... hence why I suggested earlier to keep stock ones.
might wounder why lots of companies selling polyurethane ? well, simple fact is that most f-body owners are into drag than anything else when comes times to mod.
And for the noise, I've gone to polyurethane LCA/PHR, rod-ends that weren't that great, and great rod-ends.
in all honesty, the worse I had was the polyurethane (loudest w/ squish-squish) and lots of bind, followed by the not so good rod-ends (clunking), then stock and the final setup I have now.

Wow, this is such a pain. I neevr even made the first order. Ive got 1500 in cash sitting here waiting to be spent

. Now a fellow f-body friend of mine is saying to forget BMR and go with all Spohn. I mean he maked a good point. If i get Spohn I would get all the same components except they would all be in Chrome Moly instead of regular steel. Sounds good, although every part would be poly because the rod ended are too god damn expensive and they dont offer rubber. WTF I cannot make my mind up. Ill end up sitting on this money for a month then just saying fuck it because I dont wanna buy the wrong part. Once ive got it im stuck with it, I dont have the $$ to be re-buying parts cause the firs ttime i screwed up. Im back to square one, trying to choose a manufacturer, and then trying to choose the correct part..

so now ive got to choose between BMR Spohn and UMI.. im totally lost

**Eugenio_SS** · 03-25-2006, 04:01 AM

good phr aren't too cheap, but there is nothing wrong w/ the stock one, you can keep it until you make your mind... and at least you won't be hindering your handling.
If you call www.stranoparts.com I'm sure you'll get a great price/service and be sure you are getting the parts that will suit your needs.
PHR that I would consider would be from UnbalancedEngineering, LG, Trackbird Engineering. They all offer great rod-ends... the others, welll... not necessarily, and I would definitely stay away from the BMR PHR since they are know to fail.

**Eugenio_SS** · 03-25-2006, 04:03 AM

btw, you don't have to buy parts from all the same manufacturer, you know.

**sills1** · 03-26-2006, 05:13 AM

Definitely give Stranoparts.com the chance to help you. Sam knows his stuff inside and out. Just tell him what you want out of the car and how much you have to spend and he'll steer you in the right direction.

**WinSomeLoseNone** · 03-26-2006, 08:20 AM

Frankly, Sam Strano scares me. He seems so intimidating after everything i've heard about him. However after the past month of constant researching of parts from these companies UMI, Spohn, Bmr, and Hotchkis (if there is others i should look at i dont care) I looked at the exact same parts to compare pricing, material, (Chrome Moly, Steel) dimensions, (thickness) type, (rod ended, bushing) and over quality of product. I went through and added got a list of all the same items from each and every manufacturer. I then compared all of the above things. After this i went through and eliminated one by one the parts that did not make the cut. In the end i was left with a list that has a very good price with EVERYTHING in chrome moly and the PHR and LCA rod ended.

Please notice that I have decided to scrap the whole lowering idea (I do drag and lowering is not a great idea) and have gone with just performance. This list took a long ass time to make and its funny how it turned out. Take a look.

Spohn Order - $1343.40

=Adj. Torque Arm w/ Long tubes + $395.00
-Color Bright Red
-Driveshaft Loop Front Loop + $40.00
-Chrome Moly Spherical Rod End + $15.00
-Material Type 4130 Chrome Moly + $115.00
-Mounting Hardware + $19.95

=25mm Solid Chrome Moly Rear Sway Bar + $147.50

=Pan Hard Bar Rod ended Chrome Moly + $170.00
-Chrome Moly + $30.00

=Control Arms Rod End Chrome Moly + $245.00
-Chrome Moly + $30.00
-Mounting Hardware + $10.95

=Tubular Shock Tower Brace Chrome Moly + $85.00
-Chrome Moly + $40.00

UMI Order - $279.99

=Three Point Bolt-in Sub frame + $279.99

Yes, theres alot of Spohn. They did have the best price, same as BMR (with steel) but with rod end and chrome moly. The UMI SFC's have the triangle design and I have read everywhere that they just do a better job of stiffening the unibody. The ONLY thing that worries me is that the Spohn rod ends will fail. Does anyone know if I can count on them?
Is it