Need suspension help

**Justin93** · 12-31-2008, 05:24 AM

So now with my newfound power after heads cam and intake my car feels a bit squirley under hard acceleration. I would like a suspension setup that is good for a daily driver yet offers more control under hard straight acceleration and in the twisties. So far all i have installed is a BMR strut tower brace and I have weld on subframe connectors waiting to be installed. What can I do to keep this thing on the road without fighting it the whole time? Thanks

Justin

**JoshieDoom** · 12-31-2008, 06:20 AM

On street tires you wont do much at all if any, are you having the rear end kick out?

**Justin93** · 12-31-2008, 07:05 AM

Originally Posted by JoshieDoom

On street tires you wont do much at all if any, are you having the rear end kick out?

Its not so much that the rear end is kicking out it just seems the car wanders a bit under WOT acceleration. I just had it aligned. I've got bfg 315 DR's on the way.

**JoshieDoom** · 12-31-2008, 07:10 AM

I would inspect your tie rod ends and get an aligment. Its worth the time and money too.

**Dr.Crash** · 12-31-2008, 07:35 AM

what kind of power are you making? I had the same issue after i did my H/C. i ended up with LCA's, Panhard rod, Torque arm, tranny crossmember, k-member, upper and lower a-arms, and i just ordered 3 point SFC's. i got all BMR tubular except for the UMI SFC's. i know that not all of that is "suspension" stuff, but i cant tell you how much of a difference it made. now all i need is some slicks

Also do you still have factory front brakes?

**Justin93** · 12-31-2008, 09:08 AM

im pushing 428 rwhp/ 407 rwftlbs. Did you go adjustable on the torque arm, control arms, and pan hard bar?

I do have factory brakes however I have slotted rotors and hawk HPS pads as the brakes were toast when I bought the car.

**Dr.Crash** · 12-31-2008, 09:56 AM

Originally Posted by Justin93

im pushing 428 rwhp/ 407 rwftlbs. Did you go adjustable on the torque arm, control arms, and pan hard bar?

I do have factory brakes however I have slotted rotors and hawk HPS pads as the brakes were toast when I bought the car.

no i didnt get the adjustable stuff. to many adjustments for me. but it works great. i would imagine that if i was a hardcore drag racer that would be worth the time, but what i have does just what it needs to. great upgrades. car was completely different. I jst bought the new 6 piston fixed caliper baer Front brake conversion. i would highly recomend some better brakes with all of that power. i destroyed my stock set-up with-in the first 3k after my H/C. it was just so much fun to get up to speed but then i would realize how fast i was going and had to slow down.

**Justin93** · 12-31-2008, 10:12 AM

Originally Posted by Dr.Crash

no i didnt get the adjustable stuff. to many adjustments for me. but it works great. i would imagine that if i was a hardcore drag racer that would be worth the time, but what i have does just what it needs to. great upgrades. car was completely different. I jst bought the new 6 piston fixed caliper baer Front brake conversion. i would highly recomend some better brakes with all of that power. i destroyed my stock set-up with-in the first 3k after my H/C. it was just so much fun to get up to speed but then i would realize how fast i was going and had to slow down.

LOL I am very intrested in the trans crossmember and torque arm as my y pipe tends to tapp off the factory member a bit, Did the Bmr crossmember give you any more clearance? Also does the car corner nice? I really dont want a drag only setup either and ocasionally take my car to the open track days at a local road course.

**Vexzer** · 12-31-2008, 10:15 AM

If it's looseness under acceleration, we've got a similar problem. Mine has 365RWHP & 315's. Just bought from a wrecked car: BMR Adjustable Torque Arm & Strange PRG200 Fully assembled 12-bolt rear end. Seller said the torque arm made the most difference as far as controlling wheelspin. Hopefully in about 2 weeks I'll have it together along with my new LS7 clutch and can tell you how great it is. I'll keep you posted.
http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/pdf/078.pdf

But if you are talking about the "troughing" caused by the wide fronts, I got that too. If alignment is correct and problem remains, the factory bulletins essentially say it is "normal" and you'll have to live with it.

**Justin93** · 12-31-2008, 10:24 AM

Originally Posted by Vexzer

If it's looseness under acceleration, we've got a similar problem. Mine has 365RWHP & 315's. Just bought from a wrecked car: BMR Adjustable Torque Arm & Strange PRG200 Fully assembled 12-bolt rear end. Seller said the torque arm made the most difference as far as controlling wheelspin. Hopefully in about 2 weeks I'll have it together along with my new LS7 clutch and can tell you how great it is. I'll keep you posted.
http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/pdf/078.pdf

But if you are talking about the "troughing" caused by the wide fronts, I got that too. If alignment is correct and problem remains, the factory bulletins essentially say it is "normal" and you'll have to live with it.

I got 315's on zr1's out back as well. let me know how that arm works for you.

**Dr.Crash** · 12-31-2008, 10:43 AM

Originally Posted by Justin93

LOL I am very intrested in the trans crossmember and torque arm as my y pipe tends to tapp off the factory member a bit, Did the Bmr crossmember give you any more clearance? Also does the car corner nice? I really dont want a drag only setup either and ocasionally take my car to the open track days at a local road course.

Yes the Cross Member did give me alittle more Clearence for my y-pipe. the car drives great now, takes corners no prblem. thats really what i want is a corner car. anyone can go fast in a stright line (like a big block in a pinto

) but im all about the track. ive done a few track days at Thunder Hill here in cali. but at the same time Drag racing is still fun. so you get the best of both worlds.

**Justin93** · 12-31-2008, 11:43 AM

Originally Posted by Dr.Crash

Yes the Cross Member did give me alittle more Clearence for my y-pipe. the car drives great now, takes corners no prblem. thats really what i want is a corner car. anyone can go fast in a stright line (like a big block in a pinto

) but im all about the track. ive done a few track days at Thunder Hill here in cali. but at the same time Drag racing is still fun. so you get the best of both worlds.

Good to hear that is essentially my philosophy as well. I like drag racing but it just doesnt get the adrenaline going like tearing up the corners!

**hot93rod** · 01-02-2009, 07:32 AM

I know this isn't my post, but Dr. Crash, do you still have the stock springs/shocks? I have a similar set up as you so far, minus the a-arms, and tranny crossmember. I don't like having to deal w/the adjustments, even if I did know how to correctly adjust it. I am in the same boat as the both of you in that I am more interested in the cornering than dragging...

**Dr.Crash** · 01-02-2009, 07:54 AM

Originally Posted by hot93rod

I know this isn't my post, but Dr. Crash, do you still have the stock springs/shocks? I have a similar set up as you so far, minus the a-arms, and tranny crossmember. I don't like having to deal w/the adjustments, even if I did know how to correctly adjust it. I am in the same boat as the both of you in that I am more interested in the cornering than dragging...

after market fronts, stock in the rear (untill Alston finishes his rear coil-over conversion kit). i have lowered the front of the car about 2 inches, and will do the same to the rear once i get the rear kit. Most of the people i asked about it said that unless you are really into drag racing, the adjustable stuff wasnt really worth it (not just the money, but the time). the way i look at it is, if i lose a 1/10 because i didnt spend the extra time/money to get my car "adjusted" to go down the strip like it was on rails. I just dont care. plua as far as the a-arms go, when i spoke with Thunder racing, they told me the adjustable upper a-arms have to be replaced every so offten. like i said 1/10 is not worth it to me.

**hot93rod** · 01-04-2009, 06:25 AM

Don't you ever have clearance issues w/a 2" drop? I know you say it handles like a dream, but does it still get much traction when you stomp on it from a stand still because I thought the adjustable stuff was more for the road course race types a little more so than the drag race because of the lowering and everything. But I whole heartedly agree with you, there's other things I have yet to do to shave off a 1/10 if that's what I want than to spend an extra 40-150 on each suspension part I buy, on top of having to replace the stuff again!! no way.

**JoshieDoom** · 01-04-2009, 06:38 AM

Originally Posted by Dr.Crash

I just dont care. plua as far as the a-arms go, when i spoke with Thunder racing, they told me the adjustable upper a-arms have to be replaced every so offten. like i said 1/10 is not worth it to me.

Why the hell would they have to be replaced? I just bought a set to fix my ball joint issues?!?

**hot93rod** · 01-04-2009, 06:40 AM

uh oh... I have a question about that, did they say that any of the other a-arm components would have to be replaced or just the adjustable type?

**JoshieDoom** · 01-04-2009, 06:42 AM

They dont make non adjustable lowers...

**JoshieDoom** · 01-04-2009, 07:25 AM

"Over time, using the spherical rod ends on the street will wear out relatively quick due to dirt and such getting in them"

Found that in one of our stickies about lower control arms... piss.

**Dr.Crash** · 01-04-2009, 12:06 PM

Originally Posted by JoshieDoom

"Over time, using the spherical rod ends on the street will wear out relatively quick due to dirt and such getting in them"

Found that in one of our stickies about lower control arms... piss.

Yup that's what thunder told me.