Need help tracking down noise

**florida4thgen** · 02-16-2015, 11:22 AM

Recently my camaro started making metal on metal grinding sound when I hit a bump, It is especially worse when its cold out. I visually inspected things and even tried to use a separate jack to put load on the suspension and let it down but didnt hear it, I think I know what it is but want to make sure Im not just throwing parts at it. Cant get the pictures to upload so Ill describe what I think, the stabilizer bar bushing looks more oval with it jacked up like it went soft and the stabilizer bar links when jacked up dont look normal the rubber bushing have an orange dust to them and they are not straight, is this because of it being jacked up or have I found my problem?

**RONS98TA** · 02-16-2015, 12:58 PM

The orange dust is coming from the inside of the bushings? ? It could be rust build up in between the metal sway bar and bushing. It wouldn't cost anything if you just take the tension off the sway bar, then unbolt the clamp holding it in place to do an inspection of the rubber. Worth a shot.

**florida4thgen** · 02-16-2015, 01:15 PM

Originally Posted by RONS98TA

The orange dust is coming from the inside of the bushings? ? It could be rust build up in between the metal sway bar and bushing. It wouldn't cost anything if you just take the tension off the sway bar, then unbolt the clamp holding it in place to do an inspection of the rubber. Worth a shot.

Yeah, looks like it atleast, I got the pictures to upload on a different forum,

Need help with chasing down this suspension noise - LS1TECH

Ill do what you suggested,

Thanks

**4thGenTA** · 02-16-2015, 04:51 PM

Any aftermarket suspension parts?

**florida4thgen** · 02-16-2015, 08:47 PM

None stock suspension

**RONS98TA** · 02-17-2015, 03:37 AM

Sway bar bushings are def due for a change. Not sure if this is the cause of your noise, but they are ready for replacement. If it were me, I would upgrade to polyurethane all they way. They will outlast the steel on the car, and make everything a little tighter. This will however make the ride a little bit stiffer, but in my opinion, worth it to know they will never need replaced ever again.

**RONS98TA** · 02-17-2015, 03:41 AM

After reading your post on LS1TECH, I see that your car just came out of the body shop. Was that just for paint, or was it involved in an accident? It could just be paint and body filler dust from the paint shop. I would give it a good washing under the car with the old garden hose. Or some drive thru car washes offer "under carriage" cleaning. Give that a whirl.

**RONS98TA** · 02-17-2015, 03:42 AM

Control arm joints don't look bad though, just the sway bar end links and mounting bracket bushings.

**florida4thgen** · 02-17-2015, 02:52 PM

Thanks for the posting, I will definitely do that, it was just for paint, peeling clear coat off the right rear fender and rear bumper and it drove me nuts to the point I sanded it down myself to the bare metal and just ordered a new bumper to get repainted, If I can ever get photos to upload Ill put pictures of the car up. Its been a 2 year project and bone stock when I first got it.

**florida4thgen** · 02-17-2015, 03:01 PM

Any brand of polys I should stay away from or is one just like them all?

**RONS98TA** · 02-18-2015, 03:39 AM

I haven't replaced my sway bar or control arm bushings yet, but I did replace my motor mounts, trans mounts, and rear bump stops, on both my car and a buddies car. They were all "Prothane" brand. Very good quality parts and resonable price. I dont have any experience with any other brand, so I cant say anything good or bad about any other companies.

**florida4thgen** · 02-18-2015, 06:07 PM

Dug into the car took everything apart found out it was the upper control arm bushing to the frame of the car went bad. Still going to do what you said ron because more I dug into the car the more uglier those stabilizer bar links became.

Im going to replace the ball joints while im down there anyone know how to take the knuckle off the car?

**RONS98TA** · 02-19-2015, 03:51 AM

Jack up the car and support with jack stands on the FRAME of the car. This will let the tension off the strut and and control arms. Remove wheel. Remove sway bar end link bolts. These will probably break due to rust, so you can just sawzall them in 1/2 and save some time. (your buying new sway bar end links anyway) Remove 2 lower strut mount bolts. Unbolt strut from under hood. Remove brake caliper and rotor. Now remove cotter pins and nuts holding knuckle in place. Remove 2 bolts holding upper control arm in place. Wola! (Im doing this off memory so im sure I left something out, but it's pretty straight forward.) Most important step is taking the tension off the strut BEFORE trying to remove it.

**RONS98TA** · 02-19-2015, 03:53 AM

You can also go to "autozone" .com and sign up for repair guide help. It's free and really handy.

**DP121** · 02-19-2015, 05:17 AM

There is also a "strut" or shock assembly write up here on this site that will help you out quite a bit. Shows you how to remove the shock assembly. Then you can get the upper control arm off.

LS1Howto.com