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  1. #1
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Mean Black
    1998 Trans Am

    need help with BMR lowering springs

    Hi all. I got a set of BMR lowering springs (the number on them is 30 232R) for the rear end in my 98 TA. I put the springs on and it lowered the car about 1.5 inches. It all went well. I know the ride is going feel stiff but everytime I go over a small bump on the road it hits really hard on the rear end. I replaced the rear socks like a year ago with some gabriel's (I know cheap stuff but thats all i can afforrd at the moment).

    One thing I noticed is that if I put the car on reverse and i take off hard the rear of the car start to bump really hard (it feels like the rear of the car is jumping, but I know is not). Now I'm almost sure that either the rear end is hitting the chassis rubber stop on top of the rear axles because I shorten the distance between them, or the rear shocks shorten so much that the inner piston is hitting the top of the shock internally.

    Anyone can suggest anything that will help me make the rear end less rough?
    I know i can always go back to stock springs. I have Eibach springs in the front and it made the front a little stiff but nothing compared to the back.
    Are BMR springs a bad choice? Do i need to replace the rear shocks with better one or new one? Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
    Last edited by JayTA98; 02-01-2010 at 08:08 AM. Reason: additional info

  2. #2
    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    2013 Ram 2014 Caddy ATS

    Could be the shocks. Are the bump stops in good shape? The jumping in the rear is actually wheel hop. Could be bad shocks or the pinion angle is off.

  3. #3
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Mean Black
    1998 Trans Am

    Is this wheel hooping normal in these cars? The bump stops are factory ones and they look rooted. How do I check the pinion angle and/or fix it? What shocks are good, the OEM ones or something like blisten's, KYB? Are the springs good in your opinion. I mean the car dropped like 2 inches on the back... I can't find a part number to order some new bump stops. Anyone has it by any chance and how much they cost? I use my car as a daily driver, no drag racing lol. Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by JayTA98; 02-01-2010 at 08:56 PM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    2013 Ram 2014 Caddy ATS

    Some have wheel hop some dont. Any shock will be an upgrade. Bilsteins would be the better choice of what you listed. To check your pinion angle you will need an angle finder. Usually 10-20 bucks. To fix it you will need an adjustable pan hard bar. Bump stops you could get from a sponsor. Gmpartsdirect should have them. 2 inches is a big drop. Most shocks will have a tough time on large bumps. Do shocks first and then you can see how much that helps your problems.

  5. #5
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Mean Black
    1998 Trans Am

    Thanks for the reply. Ok so I'm not sure if these springs are the correct ones then. Whats the normal safe drop on the rear end? I might have to see if I get the Eibach springs for teh back too. I bought them used but they were sold for a 98-02 firebird. I will try getting the blisten shocks. I have a small vibration on highway and I was told it is the rear wheels slightly bent. I'm wondering if it has do with the pinion angle. I'll try rotating my tires and and see if the vibration goes to the front and stops at the back. I guess i'll have to get get me an adjustable pan hard bar. I will check the price in thebump stops. Any other input anyone?

  6. #6
    Member DVrec21's Avatar
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    what kind of eibach springs do u have on the front?? I just ordered the eibach sportlines for all the way around. I'm going to see how they go with stock shocks. I will be lowered by 1.6" in the front and 1.4" in the back. If any1 on here thinks it is a bad idea and that I will bottom out alot please let me know now. I will put them on there regardless but I realy would like to know. Goodluck and I'll be posting up on how it goes.

  7. #7
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Mean Black
    1998 Trans Am

    Hi I have the sportline (black color) ones in the front. So far they just lower the car enough that you will hear the airdam scrapping in dips and maybe at bumps. Not a big deal if you have the plastic airdam. If you lower the rear the piece of exhaust that sits under the driver's side will scrape in some speed bumps. If you have a passenger + you will scrape alot more it all depends in your exhaust. I'm sure it can get fix but you will have to take it to a exhaust shop so they can readjust. Also when you lower the car you will need either to use your scissor jack or a low profile jack when you need to lift your car.

  8. #8
    Member DVrec21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTA98 View Post
    Hi I have the sportline (black color) ones in the front. So far they just lower the car enough that you will hear the airdam scrapping in dips and maybe at bumps. Not a big deal if you have the plastic airdam. If you lower the rear the piece of exhaust that sits under the driver's side will scrape in some speed bumps. If you have a passenger + you will scrape alot more it all depends in your exhaust. I'm sure it can get fix but you will have to take it to a exhaust shop so they can readjust. Also when you lower the car you will need either to use your scissor jack or a low profile jack when you need to lift your car.
    Thanks man I really appreciate the input bro!! It all seems like the typical minor problems u get when lowering any car. or atleast any car i ever had. Right now i have stock exhaust but I have a full magnaflow from the cat back sittin that I will put on soon. Just got to drive careful around bumps and such, but its all stuff I'm only used to from driving 3 lowered hondas back in the day. and a lowered mustang a few months ago lol.

  9. #9
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Mean Black
    1998 Trans Am

    yeah I agree is normal stuf that happens with all lowered vehicles. It just too rough. Expecially the rear end. I was checking the H&R website and they have a totally different set of springs for the v6 models. Thats what im concern, that I might have the V6 springs in the rear end. I might try getting some better shocks. I might try the blistens. I know they are not the best but it's a good start i guess.

  10. #10
    Senior Member bigrondownhiller's Avatar
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    The only difference with the v6 shocks should be the fronts. Due to the lighter engine.

  11. #11
    Likes twisty roads bene's Avatar
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    This is how the pecking order on how quality shocks you should get for your car... KONIS 4/4>KYB AGX>Gabriels=Monroe sensitrax.

    If you have not already, go get your car a pair of relocation brackets and adj LCAs.

  12. #12
    Member DVrec21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bene View Post
    This is how the pecking order on how quality shocks you should get for your car... KONIS 4/4>KYB AGX>Gabriels=Monroe sensitrax.

    If you have not already, go get your car a pair of relocation brackets and adj LCAs.
    relocation brackets for what??? I assume the adjustable LCA's are so u dont bottom out??

  13. #13
    Likes twisty roads bene's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DVrec21 View Post
    relocation brackets for what??? I assume the adjustable LCA's are so u dont bottom out??
    Relocation brackets are for your LCAs so they can retain the stock angle geometry of your axle to the rest of your car; consequently, they will also help you get some traction and eliminate the rear axle hop. Adj LCAs, so you can adjust the length of the LCA because when you lower your car, you end up pushing the rear axle towards the rear bumper therefore you need to adjust it to make it centered in the wheel well.

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