Lowerd Car... Lower Control Arms???

**Rikki_SeVeN** · 07-17-2007, 01:31 PM

ok guys...so... the Eibachs and UMi Adjustable Panhard are on their way...and well... what about the control arms?

I was told that I'd need drop brackets for them... but would adjustable ones do the trick without having to weld anthing???

Thanks for the help!

**Rikki_SeVeN** · 07-17-2007, 04:49 PM

any help at all really... and um.. with some... relocation brackets... will it be hitting everything I drive over?

**JonB** · 07-17-2007, 08:05 PM

You need the brackets. Well you don't need them but they are suggested for optium traction. Adjustable lcas will not fix the angle. There should be a downward angle on the lca's when you lower the car you lose that. Adjustable lca's you can increase or decrease the total length of the lca, it does not change the angle the lca is at.

**01Z28M6** · 07-18-2007, 12:39 AM

Also, you don't have to buy weld-on LCA brackets. I bought the bolt-on brackets and they work fine. You can always have the bolt-on brackets welded at a later time if you want but the way the bolt-ons attach, I can't see how they would work loose.

**Rikki_SeVeN** · 07-18-2007, 03:37 AM

thanks guys... really appreciated... I would've probably ended up making a mistake...

**third_shift|studios** · 07-18-2007, 04:14 AM

keep in mind, you WILL have to cut through the existing LCA bracket b/c the brake lines run through it-there is no place for the brake lines to run on the new brackets...zip tie

**Rikki_SeVeN** · 07-18-2007, 04:18 AM

Originally Posted by third_shift|studios

keep in mind, you WILL have to cut through the existing LCA bracket b/c the brake lines run through it-there is no place for the brake lines to run on the new brackets...zip tie

really?... didn't know that... that applies for the bolt in ones too?

oh yeah... what about clearance... I mean will the lca's hit anywhere?

**third_shift|studios** · 07-18-2007, 09:50 AM

I have the bolt-ons, almost had them in until i got all hung up on the beak line...i would assume they don't hit as much since they are literally traveling the same course as the tires-unlike when you straddle a bump between your front/rear and your exhaust bounces off it

**01Z28M6** · 07-18-2007, 04:54 PM

Some sellers recommend just cutting one side of the parking brake cable bracket away. You really only need it fastened on one side of the LCA mount. I was able to reform my parking brake bracket so it wraps around the new relo bracket. It was difficult and time consuming doing it the way I did; using a 3 lb hammer and several different pry bars and screw drivers. Essentially I ended up stretching and re-molding the bracket. I will take and post a picture if you think that will help.

**Eugenio_SS** · 07-19-2007, 12:31 PM

avoid polyurethane LCA unless it's purely a drag car... will corner worse w/ poly than w/ stock rubber.

**01Z28M6** · 07-19-2007, 03:28 PM

You are referring to straight bushings. At least two manufacturers make an articulating ball and socket joint. The socket is a softer poly while the inner ball is hard. J&M Products sells the patent pending polyurethane jointed LCAs that give good rotation without bind.

**Rikki_SeVeN** · 07-27-2007, 06:21 AM

THE EIBACHS ARE HERE!!!...YAY!!!... too bad I'm gonna have to wait another month to put them on...LOL...
need the Adjustable Panhard... the LCA braket... and Shocks!... LOL... damn if I didn't run out of money...cause of that Body Brace I found was missing from my car....