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Thread: I think this is why I need SFC's
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07-15-2011, 06:05 PM #1
I think this is why I need SFC's
so i went to the track last weekend.... i dont have SFC's and i feel that this is what can happen when you dont have them!
If you dont know this is my drive shaft i think from body twist it rubbed on my torque arm.... i really need to get some SFC's
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07-15-2011, 06:14 PM #2
Holy moly. I think that you might also want to check your lower control arms, panhard bar and torque arm mounts to make sure everything is tight and that the parts are not twisted up.
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07-15-2011, 06:19 PM #3
what exactly do you think i should pay most of my attention to... am i just looking for parts to be twisted?
ya i didnt have the car very high when i saw that so i didnt have time to check stuff out i would think i would be able to feel if something got messed up or twisted up because it drives straight no vibrations but SFC's are a must right now lol....SLP lid w/K&N Filter, Free-Mods, LT-Headers, ORY-Pipe, V-Force Muffler, Frost Tune, AIR/EGR Delete, SFCs, Ported TB
My00Z28-----2000/Z28--------2.0331---8.4118 @ 86.83----12.9856 @ 107.15----NA------10/11
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07-15-2011, 06:29 PM #4
I would just get the ass end up in the air and start looking everything over. If you are running stock LCA's and panhard they are flimsy stamped steel pieces -- you can actually flex them with your bare hands. Just seems like something has to be moving quite a bit to allow that kind of contact. That is why I suspect that you might have something loose or damaged in the rear suspension.
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07-15-2011, 06:31 PM #5
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Pewter metallic- 2000 Camaro SS
Time to get under there and find the problem
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07-15-2011, 06:34 PM #6
alright ill check it out tomorrow or something i really hope nothing is too wrong because i do not have the cash to fix it right now lol...
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07-15-2011, 06:39 PM #7
Do you have any aftermarket suspension pieces on your car?
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07-15-2011, 06:44 PM #8
no i dont, all stock suspension...
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07-15-2011, 07:25 PM #9
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Black- 00 camaro ss M6 #6695
Damn that's not good lol. Are you going to get two point or 3 point sfc??
I'm looking to get some for mine. But I was looking at the 2 point00 ss blk m6 " STOCK" strano springs, slp bilstein shocks, adj LCA, adj panhard bar, relocation brackets, 2 point SFCs welded,OEM zo6 rims black, magnaflow exhaust, CME exhaust,E/cutout, slp grille, custom front plate mount, HIDs, whistler mod, side moldings delete, slp air lid, ported and polished TB, strut tower brace, 3.73s gears, and some other parts to list!
next to come,4.10s,ls7 clutch, ms3 or 228r cam, ported 243s, ls6 intake, ls6 oil pump. ls2 timing chain, longtube headers no cats, with a tune..
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07-15-2011, 07:42 PM #10
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07-17-2011, 10:44 AM #11
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3 points are stronger than 2 points, but in turn weigh more. They are utilized at the track as well. IMO, 3 points are the only way to go with SFC's.
You should get a tunnel brace with a drive shaft safety loop, with the current issues and track participation. With the 3 point and tunnel brace, your car will be much more solid and safer."Some people live for the rules..... I live for exceptions" N. Hexum
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07-17-2011, 12:07 PM #12
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Black- 99 WS.6 - Modified
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07-17-2011, 12:56 PM #13
well got under it everything looks straight still except idk but it almost looks like my torque arm is twisted alittle i may be wrong because iv never looked at it before... i cant afford to get 3 points but im thinking about getting some square 2 points(next week) and later some control arms and stuff...
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07-17-2011, 02:15 PM #14
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07-17-2011, 03:02 PM #15
idk when ill get the chance to take it off but should the suspension be preloaded(ramps) or on a lift? and iv never took it off before so is it just the 2 bolts on the back and like a mount up-front?
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07-17-2011, 03:05 PM #16
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07-17-2011, 03:07 PM #17
Is the TA really that easy to bend?
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07-18-2011, 12:19 PM #18
I don't believe so, I still run stockers on mine without issue. I've seen many 11 second 4th gens with them as well cutting 1.5-1.6 60 foot times.
By the way, Jeff is right. You have something else going on to rub the driveshaft like that. This in no way has anything to do with not running sub frame connectors at all. These cars don't move THAT much. Definately something off kilter under there.
Honestly, I've never found the need to install subframe connectors on our 4th gens. They seem to ride fine, and I never get those so called dimples in the quarters either, the doors shut beautifully after 12 years of driving. I don't autocross either,,,but we do make occasional trips to the drag strip with them.
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07-18-2011, 12:34 PM #19
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
check the rubber mount for the trans, If that goes it will move the TA too....
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07-18-2011, 12:42 PM #20
it might be my trans mount and the TA mount combined i was going to get a poly trans mount but heard people complaining about them being too stiff i already run poly motor mounts and im use to it... should i just replace those two mounts and if so should i use poly's?
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