Help me build my street car

**architect7** · 02-08-2009, 08:29 AM

Alright all. Of course I want to start modding my car but I want to do it right the first time. This is a weekend driver only. very few miles and will not being seeing a drag strip but maybe once a year just for fun. It will see more of a street course race environment than anything. So here is what I have for suspension ideas, tell me what you would change, not do, or add to my list. Also, another question is whether or not you think a tunnel braced torque arm would benefit me or if I should leave the stock alone.

Suspension mods:

Hotchkis progressive springs-already installed
Koni SA's-already installed
UMI 3-point SFC's-own (not installed yet)
Spohn adjustable panhard bar (should I get spherical rod ended? what does
it help?)
Spohn Adjustable LCA's w/Spherical/Poly Combo
Spohn Adjustable Torque Arm with tunnel brace and driveshaft loop (is this
necessary?)
Strano hollow swaybar set

So let the suggestions fly everyone.
Thanks!

**Mr. Luos** · 02-08-2009, 08:34 AM

Sell Hotchkis springs and get Stranos. I did that with my ProKit and upgraded to them. Worth every penny.

Seem like you are on the right track for sure!

**architect7** · 02-08-2009, 08:37 AM

Originally Posted by Mr. Luos

Sell Hotchkis springs and get Stranos. I did that with my ProKit and upgraded to them. Worth every penny.

Seem like you are on the right track for sure!

Would you still go with the tunnel braced torque arm for a street application? and would you upgrade to the spherical rod ended panhard bar?

Thanks! and Strano's springs would really outshine mine enough to make a difference?

**9T8W66** · 02-08-2009, 11:45 AM

The Hotchkis springs are progressive where as the Strano's are linear so the Strano's may ride a little harsher but I would think the Koni's more then make up for that. I have Strano's w/Koni's and I'm quite satisfied with the ride as compared to stock.
And for a streetcar you might look at a cross member mounted Torqe Arm vs a tunnel mount. JMO

**Eugenio_SS** · 02-08-2009, 02:17 PM

I'd change the springs for linear spring rates.
As for the PHR + LCA, I'd get the rod-ends... but make sure they are good QA1 rod-ends.

**architect7** · 02-08-2009, 03:07 PM

Originally Posted by Eugenio_SS

I'd change the springs for linear spring rates.
As for the PHR + LCA, I'd get the rod-ends... but make sure they are good QA1 rod-ends.

Will having the dual adjustable (rod-ended) LCA's and Panhard Bar make a louder application? I want the car to perform well but I don't want a loud rattly car.

**thearborbarber** · 02-08-2009, 04:00 PM

I went with double rod ends on the phb and poly/rod ends on the lca's. NO appreciable increase in road noise.

**Eugenio_SS** · 02-09-2009, 07:42 AM

Originally Posted by architect7

Will having the dual adjustable (rod-ended) LCA's and Panhard Bar make a louder application? I want the car to perform well but I don't want a loud rattly car.

If they are good quality rod-ends, they are quiet...
I find polyurethane louder with the squish-squish sounds.

**Blue28** · 02-09-2009, 01:12 PM

IMO, keep the hotshkis springs, unless your unhappy with them.
As far as a T.A. get a stock lenght adj. , and a UMI T.A. relocation kit, poly trans mount, and T.A. front mount bushing. For Rear LCA, DKT performance double JJ (johnny Joints) arms Quiet with great articulation, and fully rebuildableby yourself. or For less get the J&M hotparts LCA with the 3piece polyball bushingson both ends, or with the Extreme joint on one end. For PHBs get a on car adjustable poly/rod-end combo. Up front get a GlobalWest upper control arm bushing kit, with lifetime ,no deflection "Del-a-lum" bushings#GLS1082. After all of this, get the swaybars last.

**Eugenio_SS** · 02-09-2009, 01:43 PM

poly trans mount will generate insane amounts of noise in the cockpit.

**architect7** · 02-09-2009, 02:00 PM

Originally Posted by Eugenio_SS

poly trans mount will generate insane amounts of noise in the cockpit.

You're saying a tunnel braced torque arm will generate less noise?

**Blue28** · 02-09-2009, 07:47 PM

If you get the energy suspension trans mount it has the two preload bumps; cut or grind them off! Now when you mount it up go ahead and still use the preload plate.
With the preload bumps removed there's only a very slight noise increase!

Otherwise if you leave the preload bumps intact it's crazy loud!

Been there, done that!