Front end rebuild

[Rhinohuey]

Ok, I really don't know jack about suspension or steering parts but I'm trying my best to learn so bear with my here.

With 84,000, my front end seems to be pretty much worn out. All of the bushings are dry and brittle. One of the shocks is completely covered with grease. (Front shock is covered by warranty) The steering box is completely covered with grease. I just ordered brand new tires so I want to get everything perfect before getting it aligned.

As far as the bushings go, is this something I can do in my driveway? Also, what all do I need to order?

Is there anything that is not included in the Energy Suspension Front End Control Arm Bushing Set that I need to get? http://www.lmperformance.com/3121/1.html I can't tell if this includes the tie rod end bushings or not.

As far as the steering unit, how can I tell if it needs replaced or not?

The front struts I plan on taking to the shop to have them disassembled so I can ship them back to Gabriel for warranty replacement.

I know a few of the bushings need pressed in...I figure if I can get them out I can just have a shop do the pressing???

I'm really just trying to figure out if the $$ savings on labor is worth the hassle of doing everything myself.

[Rhinohuey]

bump

[sjsingle1]

installation is pretty straight forward........i reccommend you use a propane torch to burn out the stock rubber.....its better than trying to press them out......then clean up the residue with a dremel with a wire brush....i DID NOT use that grease that comes in the package.....the worst grease you can use IMO.......i used syn grease....mobil 1......i also used the dremel to grind little channels in the bushings to help lube and allow lube to escape as you put the pieces together.......otherwise they do not want to mate fully because of grease and air pockets in blind holes........especially in the lower arm bushings..........and no.........these bushings are not designed to be pressed

[sjsingle1]

[sjsingle1]

[xmarkx]

the steering rack cleans up pretty easy. the hard part is getting it out. there's 2 bolts holding it to the k member. pass side comes out easy, the drivers side requires you to lower the k member on the driver side to fully remove the bolt. when I put a new k member in I cleaned the rack spotless and put new o rings on the return lines. it's like new now!

[Rhinohuey]

Cool thank you for the help. Do I need to order new tie rod boots or are they included in the $50 control arm bushing set??

Also, what about ball joints? To be honest, I'm not even sure what they are. Are they something that usually needs replaced or would I be better off waiting to get whole new a-arms?

[sjsingle1]

no new tie rod boots in the kit......if you buy new tie rods they come with new boots......upper ball joint is only 3 bolts after you grind out the stock rivets.......lower ball joint i recommend you take to the dealer to be pressed.......new a arms.........if availible............would be $$$$$$$$$$

[xmarkx]

Cool thank you for the help. Do I need to order new tie rod boots or are they included in the $50 control arm bushing set??

Also, what about ball joints? To be honest, I'm not even sure what they are. Are they something that usually needs replaced or would I be better off waiting to get whole new a-arms?

I reused my tie rods. the boots were filthy but no rips or damage so I got some break cleaner and cleaned them up then wiped off all the grease from the top of the tie rod. I pumped new synthetic grease in from the bottom until it pushed out all the old grease then cleaned off the old grease. smeared some grease around the joint then put the boot back on.

[sjsingle1]

at 130k my tie rods were shot......new ones are not expensive

[xmarkx]

did you paint your lower A arms red?

[sjsingle1]

painted red.....but all the paint is being rock chipped off.......all my boots are poly.....tie rods.....ball joints

[sjsingle1]