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  1. #1
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    Sebring Silver Metalic
    2002 Camaro Z28

    Front A-Arm Bushing install

    Any one have a link or thread to a front upper and lower A-Arm bushing install?

    I skimmed the Haynes manual, and didn't really see anything that caught my eye for just the bushings.

    For the front upper what is the easiest way to get that bolt out? I'm assuming mine won't just fall out nice and easy.

    I don't even pay attention to the lowers. SO I have no clue what the setup looks like or where the bushings are.

    Thanks

    kool-aide

  2. #2
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    is it that easy and obvious?

  3. #3
    Paid 2 Post Daycrew SexOnWheels's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by third_shift|studios


    what's this called and who has it?

    You need to buy Moog Problem Solver Ball Joints and Strano should have them in stock. There is only four bolts to remove.

    I used a local auto parts store but had to order them anyways.

    I believe these are the correct part numbers:

    Lower ball joint = #6145T
    Upper ball joint = #K6462

  4. #4
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    If they're original there is 4 rivets instead of bolts. Grind them down and punch them out.

  5. #5
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    no offense guys but I'm not talking about the ball joints, already replaced the lower and upper ball joints.

    I was looking to see how hard it is to get the bushings out of the upper and lower A-Arm. A local shop mentioned pounding out the upper bolt. This makes me think mine is most likely in there very tight.

    I was looking for any tips or advice on the best way to replace the bushings.

    The upper ball joint as three press rivets that get drilled out. The lower is pressed into the arm.

  6. #6
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    BTW nice pic of the upper arm. Did it come with a new top plate? I always see pics of just the u-shaped arm, but always wondered if you get a new top plate too.

  7. #7
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    I used a press on mine. If I had to do again, I'd have a shop do them for me. I messed up one lower bushing and that cost me $30.00.

  8. #8
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    yeah, the guy that did mine said in his early years he screwed a few up.

  9. #9
    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    well, to do the upper arms, you'll have to remove the shock again... i know how much fun you've had with that. i use an air hammer to knock the old ones out. the lowers the same way. putting them in, i use ball joint/bushing press i have.
    Cold Air Intake, Muffler Delete, Vinci High Performance Dual Valve Springs, Hardened Pushrods, Yella Terra 1.85 Rockers, Some Hydropdipped Stuff, Strut Tower Brace, Some SS Badges, boost/vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, some checkered stripes, drilled/slotted rotors, ZL1addons Stealth wickerbill, Ruxifey LED side markers

  10. #10
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrr23 View Post
    well, to do the upper arms, you'll have to remove the shock again... i know how much fun you've had with that. i use an air hammer to knock the old ones out. the lowers the same way. putting them in, i use ball joint/bushing press i have.
    yeah, but at least i don't have to compress the springs, .

    Hmm, that must be what the guy was referring too when he offered to pound them out.

    Are they in there that tight?

    And if I go poly, then what is that pre-lube stuff?

    Do you have to use specific lube on poly? I can't think of any poly items i have right now that need regular lubing. Even the bushings I am looking at in the future don't see to need lubing.

    I think I am missing something on this whole poly and lube.

  11. #11
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    any one know if this is the right part number for the Prothane upper & lower front control arm bushings?

    7-227?

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