BEST for Traction? Lowered vs. Not Lowered

**MrMasterCraft** · 02-11-2010, 03:30 PM

Just as the thread title states, looking for a pretty elaborate/detailed explanation of....

Lowered vs. Not Lowered

How would each setup have to be modified to best suit the other for 60 ft' times and straight-line performance?

Which would cost you less to hook up better?

Yet, in the end, which would work the best for hooking up at the track, regardless of money and parts?

Don't really need a specific brand but I guess if you have before/after track times w/ same powertrain setup for both visits, that would be cool (but I'll leave that up to Mr. P)

**c5z28** · 02-11-2010, 03:53 PM

stock height would be best, and supposedly v-6 springs are softer, and I am sure you could pick those up easily.

**MrMasterCraft** · 02-12-2010, 07:53 AM

Thanks for the input C5, 30+ views and no responses? I know we've got more than a couple of members with some sick set-ups and nobody cares to give any input? Damn...

**0rion** · 02-12-2010, 08:50 AM

you want some suspension travel to transfer the weight to the passenger rear tire ideally. A lowered car loses some of that weight transfer due to how stiff it has to be. With how far suspensions have come though I don't think it's as crucial as it used to be. You can get some lower control arm relocation brackets and set up the springs and shocks correctly and still hook a lowered car pretty well these days.

**MrMasterCraft** · 02-12-2010, 09:19 AM

Originally Posted by 0rion

you want some suspension travel to transfer the weight to the passenger rear tire ideally. A lowered car loses some of that weight transfer due to how stiff it has to be. With how far suspensions have come though I don't think it's as crucial as it used to be. You can get some lower control arm relocation brackets and set up the springs and shocks correctly and still hook a lowered car pretty well these days.

Can you elaborate on the specifics, maybe a little math?