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  1. #1
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    Adjustable or Non-Adjustable Torque Arm?

    I was looking at an adjustable torque arm for a future buy, and noticed that they have rod-end joints in them. I absolutely hate the sounds of my rod-end LCAs and was considering going with the UMI non-adjustable torque arm.

    My car is lowered on Strano Springs. I am currently running the stock torque arm.

    UMI says to go with adjustable, but my thing is this: If I'm running the stock (non-adjustable) torque arm right now, what problem am I causing by not having it adjusted to the lower ride height?

    My understanding is that the non-adjustable is a direct bolt on replacement for the factory piece. Am I missing something?

  2. #2
    Senior Member raynor139's Avatar
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    Pewter
    2002 Trans Am WS6 M6

    I have an adjustable torque arm with rod ends and I rarely if ever hear it. I changed to different style of lca because I got tired of listening to them. Even though the car rides much stiffer with the new koni 4/4 it's alot quieter then the stock suspension was with the rod lcas.

    The reason why you want to beyond noise is the pinion angle. When you lower the car you change the angle. While not always necessary an incorrect angle can reduce traction and in bad cases cause alot of driveline noise.

    Had some of the same worries as you since I was trying to get away from all the noise the car was making before I rebuilt the suspension.
    Last edited by raynor139; 09-16-2016 at 06:49 PM.
    Mods - Lid, Skip Shift Eliminator, MGW shifter, UMI SFCs, Founders Lower Control Arms, Founders Panhard Bar, Founders Adj. Torque Arm, UMI Torque arm mount, MWC Drive shaft safety loop, KONI Yellows, Strano Springs, Strano Sway bars, UMI Upper and lower A Arms, 160 thermostat, TSP headers and TSP true duals Monster stage 2 clutch, racetronix fuel pump, Strange S60 rear axle and tune by Frost.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Cayanne
    98 Z28 Vert M6

    What LCAs did you go with? I'm close to choosing UMI's poly-roto combo.
    Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter

  4. #4
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Navy Blue Metallic
    98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert

    Adjustable or Non-Adjustable Torque Arm?

    i have the single adjustable roto joint LCA's from UMI. no complaints what so ever. Made setting up my 8.8 rear square easy as pie.

    No noise either, some ppl complain about noise, that's why I mention it.
    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/

    6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.

    00 FB Vert - Stock

    78 FB - Just getting started......

    Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!

  5. #5
    Senior Member raynor139's Avatar
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    2002 Trans Am WS6 M6

    I have the founders poly/poly on car adjustable setup. I was going to try the UMI roto ones but wanted something with no noise. The founders units use a 3 piece poly setup at both ends. So they use a hard spherical piece with softer cups on either side to give a larger range of motion then 2 piece poly setups. They claim their motion range is as good as spherical bearings. If I don't like them I still have my UMI ones and can switch their rod ends to the roto ones. My UMI are also showing their age and need to have the powder coat redone on them and they are single rod ends. In the end after having rod ends on both my lca and Panhard bar then going to one's that don't I can say I'm much happier with the noise reduction. If I did lose any performance out of the switch I haven't noticed. But with rebuilding the entire suspension at once who knows.
    Last edited by raynor139; 09-17-2016 at 08:25 AM.

  6. #6
    Member DarrenWS6's Avatar
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    Silver Metallic
    2000 Trans Am WS6

    I also am lowered ( Eibach pro-kit ) and you may recall my thread of suspension 'hopping' cruising down the road. I have no annoying noises or anything, only the hop issue. I too know it is because of the torque arm angle shifting the rear differently. When the car lowers, the torque arm needs to downsize to accommodate. So i'll be ordering an adjustable torque arm. I'll keep everything poly bushing to reduce any chances of noise on my street pleasure car.
    2000 Trans Am WS.6 M6

    SLP lid & bellow w/ K&N, GMMG catback w/ Corsa Clones, UMI SFC, UMI Adj. Panhard, UMI Adj. TQ arm w/ relocation kit, QTP Longtube headers ORY, LS6 intake, EGR/A.I.R delete.
    Eibach prokit, Bilstein HDs, Nitto NT555s, skip shift elim, whiteface overlays, 20% tint, matte black decal/overlays
    YouTube.com/DarrenWS6

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