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  1. #1
    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Tranny shifting ?

    I just finally and I mean finally got finished with my LS7 clutch install with a Tick mc.
    My question is with the adjustment of the Tick mc, I adjusted it as described in the directions and it shifts smooth 1,2,3,4 in normal driving, however when I run it hard 1,2 smooth 3rd has a small grind going in.
    I have adjusted it (clutch pedal) and it got a little better however I don't want to go to far as the directions state you could damage the pressure plate.
    Anyone have any insite on this and how much adjustment is to much?
    I'm not running it super hard only has maybe 20 miles on the swap
    99 Trans Am, SLP Lid, Blackwing filter, smooth bellow, Ported TB, LS6 intake, Ws6 lower ram air box, OBX LT's, Magna Flow cat back, LS7 clutch, Tick MC, Hurst Shifter, Frost Tune, UMI SFC,LAC, STB, PB, Torq Arm, Super Hawk hood, Torq Thrust II, Kee Audio.
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  2. #2
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Clutch adjustment is personal preference. I like mine to engage/disengage very near the top of pedal travel so that's how I set them all up.

    As far as gear grinding, if it's only happening in one gear (3rd in this case) and all others are fine, I'd venture to say it's an internal trans issue (syncro)

  3. #3
    Sold: LS1 '85 El Camino ls1camino's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Clutch adjustment is personal preference. I like mine to engage/disengage very near the top of pedal travel so that's how I set them all up.
    My engage/disengage travel is less than 3 inches. I love it, but some people like the longer travel. My buddy go so used to his stock setup (a whole 12 inches of travel) and he adjusted his master cylinder to be just like stock.

    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    As far as gear grinding, if it's only happening in one gear (3rd in this case) and all others are fine, I'd venture to say it's an internal trans issue (syncro)
    That or you're not giving yourself enough time to shift and you're forcing it into gear before the clutch is fully disengaged.

  4. #4
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1camino View Post
    My engage/disengage travel is less than 3 inches. I love it, but some people like the longer travel. My buddy go so used to his stock setup (a whole 12 inches of travel) and he adjusted his master cylinder to be just like stock.



    That or you're not giving yourself enough time to shift and you're forcing it into gear before the clutch is fully disengaged.
    Hence the reason you need more freeplay. When you're racing you can't wait on the clutch

    With the engage/disengage near the top, I can "feather" the clutch and yank the lever, no issues.

  5. #5
    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info kind of thinking I may be not pushing it in far enough also clutch is very new and with the tick I'm like a newbie on the pedal. Going to let it break in some more before running it any harder and me break in on it then I will try some more shifts & adjustments and some praying its not a syncro......

  6. #6
    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Clutch adjustment is personal preference. I like mine to engage/disengage very near the top of pedal travel so that's how I set them all up.

    As far as gear grinding, if it's only happening in one gear (3rd in this case) and all others are fine, I'd venture to say it's an internal trans issue (syncro)
    where is your pedal compared to where it was stock? Mine is aprox. 1.5" to 2" lower than the break

  7. #7
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingls1 View Post
    where is your pedal compared to where it was stock? Mine is aprox. 1.5" to 2" lower than the break
    If you are referring to the pedals while at rest. My clutch pedal is about 2" higher than the brake pedal.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 07-29-2013 at 06:53 PM.

  8. #8
    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    If you are referring to the pedals while at rest. My clutch pedal is about 2" higher than the brake pedal.
    Sorry haven't been on for a few, I'm confused on the adjustments, how you get the pedal and clutch to grab at the top, Tick's directions want you to start with the pedal as low to the floor and slowly adjust it out until full engagement and no further or risk damage to clutch! My clutch grabs almost as soon as it is released (just off the floor) and I have been slowly getting use to that. The more I drive it seems(clutch break in) when I run it harder I'm paying more attention to my shift and clutch engagement into third it is going a lot smoother. Been driving sticks off and on most of my driving but this is my first time clutch install and learning as I go

  9. #9
    Veteran Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingls1 View Post
    Sorry haven't been on for a few, I'm confused on the adjustments, how you get the pedal and clutch to grab at the top, Tick's directions want you to start with the pedal as low to the floor and slowly adjust it out until full engagement and no further or risk damage to clutch! My clutch grabs almost as soon as it is released (just off the floor) and I have been slowly getting use to that. The more I drive it seems(clutch break in) when I run it harder I'm paying more attention to my shift and clutch engagement into third it is going a lot smoother. Been driving sticks off and on most of my driving but this is my first time clutch install and learning as I go
    I pay no attention to ticks instruction of adjusting the pedal to engage as low to the floor as possible.

    I adjust for my own personal feel. Prefer engagement near the top of travel and have never had any pressure plate damage of any kind. My wife wouldn't even drive the car with the low (barely off floor) engagement and I'll be honest, even hard for me to drive. With the disc so close to the flywheel, it never really slows down much between shifts and can make shifting sticky, works syncro's harder, and even in idle situations with the disc still trying to spin it makes reverse hard to engage on non syncro type transmissions. That's what I grew up with and raced with so I tend to stick with the high engagement. I also don't want the need to jab the pedal completely to the floor to power shift either, as it takes more time, and since your hand is faster than your foot by nature, it's advantageous.

    If you like the low engagement and really feel the need to follow the instruction, I'd leave it be. Sounds like you are getting used to it. Might get even better with some miles on it.

  10. #10
    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Thanks so much for your input, helped me clear up some questions and learn the process a little more

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