stock clutch done? what new clutch?

**jmatt07** · 05-19-2011, 04:26 PM

driving the ss to work the other day and i moved up at a light in first and pushed in clutch but the car was still in 1st gear trying to pull away. had to hit the brakes and car died. well the clutch pedal got stuck to the floor and is now all loose and wont really do anything. i had to shut of car, put it in first and start it and it lunged forward but i finally got it to the parking lot. also drove it home like this, no clutch whatsoever. car has 110k with head/cam/intake/exhaust on stock clutch so no surprise its dead. Thinking about getting spec stage 1 bc they claim it will hold up to 599 torque which im not at yet and i dont plan to add anything and im broke so its in my price range. questions. is there a write up on bleeding? do i need a new slave and master cylinder? what else do i need for install? and ive read about shimming the clutches or something? i have no idea what thats about. ive changed clutches before but it was on a dodge neon lol. any help is appreciated. Thanks

**az gt eater** · 05-19-2011, 05:03 PM

stage 1, prob wouldnt really be a upgrade. You should just stick with the stock clutch. They recommend you change the flywheel. It all sells as a kit.
I put the stage two in, and i am having huge problems with mine now. I have determined that the problem is the master. According to tick perf, the factory system doesnt have enough pressure to completely disengage the stiffer aftermarket clutches. Makes sense, seeing as mine isn't disengaging.
As far as shims go, i got a shim with mine, and I put it behind the slave cylinder. It doesn't need to be sealed at all. It is only a spacer. Oh, and when you pull the trans, pull the trans, THEN the bell housing. I just had my flywheel resurfaced when I changed to the spec 2.

**TRANS-DAD** · 05-20-2011, 06:11 AM

Hey jmatto7, Im sure you need a new clutch @ 110k!! lol! But what you described sounds like a hydrolic issue When the peddle is on the floor it is usually master or slave cyl...........& if you daily drive the car I would suggest a factory LS7 clutch it should hold your power level & if you are gonna do the work yourself you don't need to shim
Try contacting Mark @ KENTUCKY SPEED he can talk you through everything you will need ( clutch & hydrolics) They also sponsor this site & thats a good thing!

**wileyCoyote** · 05-20-2011, 06:39 AM

sounds like slave cyl problem?

mines a DD too. just had my clutch and components replaced at 155k mi! i just went w/ the OE replacements: clutch package (incl. flywheel, pressure plate, disk), new slave cyl, new master cyl - works great now!

**35th-ANV-SS** · 05-20-2011, 06:53 AM

Step 1 - check your fluid level.

Step 2 - check to make sure the fluid is clean.

If your'e low, you probably have a leak. Usually if the slave is bad, it will be leaking.

Yes, you want to swap out the slave and MC when doing a clutch install.

I have a stock 02 GM MC and the Spec Stage 3+. I have no disengagement issues what-so-ever.

If you're on a budget, get the 02 GM MC. It will be fine for your application.

***SMWS6TA*** · 05-20-2011, 06:55 AM

For modest bolt ons or even under stock power for a DD car I would recommend the LS7 clutch kit. For $500 you get the clutch disk, pressure plate and a new flywheel. KySpeed is where I got mine. Great feel and tough as hell. Also I recommend you change out the slave while your there. For those stick with OEM. I got mine form gmpartsdirect. Far cheaper then the auto parts places and dealer.