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07-26-2011, 08:16 PM #1
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
- Location
- Fredericksburg, VA
- Posts
- 13
Black- 2001 Trans AM WS6
Pulling Transmission, Clutch Install???
I'm in the middle of pulling my transmission out of my 2001 Trans AM. I have a clutch that's been sitting/waiting to get installed for what seems like years now. While I have the transmission out, it's a perfect opportunity to throw that bad boy in there. It's a clutch/flywheel. SPEC Stage 3 Carbon Fibre from way back when.
Do I need any parts in particular? I don't have any shims...can I get any from dealership / Advance Auto? Is a new slave necessary? I also have a leak in the tailshaft which I'm either going to patch or install a new tailshaft if it's too bad to patch...I had a mishap last time I was at the track, broke all kinds of things, cracking the tailshaft in the process. Is it easy/necessary to put in a new output shaft seal? Any other parts or things I should think about doing while the trans is out? Thanks.
-Sleivn
Long time Member since 1998, 3 screen names later
Reko98TA / NVETHIS / Slevin
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07-30-2011, 09:40 AM #2
why would you need shims? nothing to shim that i know of. you would be wise to thro a new slave in there and prolly a new master. also if you have lots of miles then also replace the pilot bearing. since you will have the flywheel off you can replace your rear main cover gasket and crank seal. also if you extension housing is leaking there is no patching it, you need a new seal and/or yoke
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07-30-2011, 12:59 PM #3
- Join Date
- May 2006
- Location
- England but from TX
- Posts
- 803
Light Pewter Metallic- 2K Camaro Z28
get yourself a remote bleeder by tic.
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07-30-2011, 06:34 PM #4
New clutch master cylinder by tick, screw the remote bleeder. No offense, bene. Get a mity vac. Bleed it all from the top. Don't cut the tunnel(like I did) or try it from the bottom. Bleeding that is. And replace the slave(if you have the money) and replace the tail shaft seal. It's the cheapest thing you will do. When you fill the tranny back up, fill it through the top. You will have the shifter out anyway.
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07-31-2011, 06:35 PM #5
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- South Carolina
- Posts
- 36
Black- 98 T/A
Really? Spec clutches are WELL known for needing shimed.
During your next clutch install, determine if your slave cylinder needs to be shimmed or not. To do so, you need to take two measurements:
Measurement "A" is the distance between the surface of the bellhousing that meets the transmission to the tip of the pressure plate fingers. To get an accurate measurement, the clutch must be torqued properly.
Measurement "B" is the distance between the throwout bearing surface to the transmission surface that meets the bellhousing. To get an accurate measurement, the slave spring must be removed and the bearing must be fully seated at the bottom of it's travel; resting on the slave's base.
Once you've got your two measurements, make sure that measurement "B" is ~1/16" to 1/8" LESS than measurement "A". If you come up with more than 1/8", add an appropriately sized shim between the slave and the transmission in order to get the measurements where they need to be.
If there is no difference between the two measurements, or if "B" is greater than "A", there could be a problem with clutch engagement which could result in premature clutch slip and eventually a total failure.
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08-03-2011, 03:09 PM #6
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