I think someone might be able to answer this:

[01blackbird]

My stock flywheel needs to be turned 20 thousands of an inch which is a no-no with these hydralic clutch set-ups. I was reading that the throw out bearing assembly can be shimmed to match how much the flywheel gets turned. Is this true? And if so, where do I purchase these shims? Thanks for any assistance.

[Cutlass]

Yes you can shim the slave cylinder. Some people make it work, others still have problems. The better fix is to replace the flywheel.

[01blackbird]

Interesting.... Your probably right about just changing the flywheel, that way it keeps the full strength/intregrity of it.

[az gt eater]

i just did mine, and had the flywheel resurfaced, the clutch kit came w a slave spacer. I installed it, and it is very tight. i like it alot. Launches better and never slips like the factory one did.

[01blackbird]

i just did mine, and had the flywheel resurfaced, the clutch kit came w a slave spacer. I installed it, and it is very tight. i like it alot. Launches better and never slips like the factory one did.

I haven't even found anyone who carries a shim and I called all the local parts and transmission places around me. What brand of clutch is it that they shipped you out a shim?

[01blackbird]

One of the trans shops are telling me if I only have to turn the flywheel 10-20 thousands that I'm not going to have any issues at all. Has anyone had experience with this?

[az gt eater]

its a spec stage 2.

[01blackbird]

Well I just talked to another local trans shop that's pretty reputable and the owner has been in the business for over 40 years. He said on the LS1's, turning the flywheel 20 thousands does not require shimming anything even with the power adder that I have. Does anyone have any experience with turning your flywheel (no more than 20 thousands) and not shimming it?

[az gt eater]

looks like crickets. ehy it might be only a matter of preference. My release point is barely off the floor now. I would think that this point is only going to come up as the friction disc wears, and when it is completely worn, the release point will still be servicable. like not all the way up at the top. i like it alot better than the factory clutch. i just installed it the way they said. now if only someone would have told me that you have to take the tranny off, THEN the bellhousing, it wouldnt have taken as long to do it.

[01blackbird]

looks like crickets. ehy it might be only a matter of preference. My release point is barely off the floor now. I would think that this point is only going to come up as the friction disc wears, and when it is completely worn, the release point will still be servicable. like not all the way up at the top. i like it alot better than the factory clutch. i just installed it the way they said. now if only someone would have told me that you have to take the tranny off, THEN the bellhousing, it wouldnt have taken as long to do it.

I hear you on the bell housing thing. Even the factory service manual shows pulling the trans with it on. Go figure!

[az gt eater]

I hear you on the bell housing thing. Even the factory service manual shows pulling the trans with it on. Go figure!

i know. i pulled it with a friend's help with the bell housing on, and tried to put it back in solo with the bell housing. I creased the tunnel metal. Then after i almost slid the the car off the jacks, i rethought the situation. much easier after that. i guess im too big to b under a car pushing.