HELP! clutch wont bleed out.no pressure at all

**Leeroyws6** · 05-08-2010, 11:29 AM

hello.ok i took car to track and was having clutch problems.i did some research and decided to do the drill mod.well..drill bit got stuck in the line so i had to go to gm and get a new freakin line.i installed new line with old master cylinder and old slave cylinder.but i cannot bleed the damn clutch.i get some fluid dribbling out of the bleeder but no pressure.im doing it the traditional way.i also have a mightyvac,but i cant seem to get the hose end onto the bleeder valve straight to create a suction.but the thing is..i had dark fluid in the sytem like ink.now i have clear fluid dribbling out of the bleeder.so i know the new fluid is making its way through the slave.so why the F dont i have any pedal pressure?ive tried with cap on and off, car running, and not(that shouldnt matter but what the hell)im thinking the master cylinder is bad.does that sound accurate?please chime in.i miss my bird.

**Leeroyws6** · 05-08-2010, 06:27 PM

i must also add that i did cut a hole in my tunnel and was able to get a mighty vac on the bleeder.i am getting air somewhere cause i went through two bottles of dot 4 and still was getting bubbles.also what does it mean when you open the bleeder and fluid just pours out?without having to pump it put or push the pedal or anything.i open the bleeder and fluid just starts drooling out of the bottom of the bellhousing.steady stream.i can go up top and watch my fluid slowly diappear in the resevoir.i dont think that should be happening.any ideas???

**az gt eater** · 05-08-2010, 06:33 PM

this is how i bled my tranny r and rs. two times. i filled the reservoir, put the small tip on mity vac, inserted into hole in bottom of reservoir, pulled on mity vac to have enough suction to hold it in place. dont put too much suction, or you will pull seals. then i went in car, and pumped clutch. you can see the air bubbles come out. i did this a few times to be sure, and all done. if you have already cut the tunnel, you could speed up things, and open the bleeder screw until fluid runs out before you start, but im sure your lines are full by now.oh, and dont let the brake fluid sit on paint.

**Cutlass** · 05-08-2010, 06:57 PM

These hydraulic clutches don't bleed well using the traditional pump/hold/open bleeder method like brakes do.
Refer to this sticky in this section for help
How to bleed a clutch with a Mity Vac

**Leeroyws6** · 05-09-2010, 07:22 AM

yeah ive read that sticky.ive tried bleeding with a mighty vac.only thing is,no matter how many times i pull fluid through,i always get airbubbles.its like im sucking air in through somewhere.ive checked all connections.im thinking i have a bad master cylinder.i just dont know where all the air is coming from.is it possible that a seal has blown with too much vaccuum?when i crack open the bleeder valve now,fluid just comes out the weep hole of the bellhousing without having to use vaccumm or pressure.i can see the level decreasing in the resevoir with bleeder open.close bleeder and the fluid stops coming out.could this be a bad master or slave?please someone chime in here.so i think its basically gravity bleeding itself which means there shouldnt be any air in the system.when its gravity bleeding,i can close the bleeder,top off the resevoir,and i have just a tad bit of predal pressure.just enough to where i dont have to lift the pedal back to the original position.it springs back on its own. but its not enough pressure to shift gears.so at that point,shouldnt all the air be bled out already?but i dont understand why the bleeder gravity bleeds like it does without vaccuum or pressure.

**Cutlass** · 05-09-2010, 02:28 PM

yes fluid should run out when opening the bleeder. Its called gravity bleeding like you said. After the system is bled you may have to pump the pedal several times to adjust/fill up the slave cylinder.
Using the method in the sticky doesn't require opening the bleeder screw. You just stick the mity vac hose down in the res and pump out the air.

**Leeroyws6** · 05-09-2010, 02:57 PM

Originally Posted by Cutlass

yes fluid should run out when opening the bleeder. Its called gravity bleeding like you said. After the system is bled you may have to pump the pedal several times to adjust/fill up the slave cylinder.
Using the method in the sticky doesn't require opening the bleeder screw. You just stick the mity vac hose down in the res and pump out the air.

oh i just watched the video.im a noob.i will try sucking it through the resevoir hole,but if hes doing that,why did he cut a hole in his trans tunnel?why is there a pic of the bleeder valve if you dont have to open it? im confused?so i need to be bleeding it though the resevoir hole?

**Hi-Po** · 05-09-2010, 03:57 PM

Originally Posted by Leeroyws6

oh i just watched the video.im a noob.i will try sucking it through the resevoir hole,but if hes doing that,why did he cut a hole in his trans tunnel?why is there a pic of the bleeder valve if you dont have to open it? im confused?so i need to be bleeding it though the resevoir hole?

I did that because I wanted to flush the system as my fluid was very dark and my hydraulics were seriously screwing me up at the track. Also, I was trying to bleed the conventional way with one person so the hole was needed. Use the mityvac as shown in the video and it should work flawlessly. If you continue to suck air and the bubbles do not stop, then your pulling air in from somewhere and that needs to be addressed before moving forward. The entire bleeding process with the mityvac shouldn't take more then 60 seconds.

**Hi-Po** · 05-09-2010, 03:59 PM

Also, I put the picture of the bleeder valve sctrictly because I couldn't find any pictures of it on the web, figured it would be nice for someone to see that didn't know where the bleeder valve was.

**Leeroyws6** · 05-09-2010, 07:08 PM

Originally Posted by Hi-Po

I did that because I wanted to flush the system as my fluid was very dark and my hydraulics were seriously screwing me up at the track. Also, I was trying to bleed the conventional way with one person so the hole was needed. Use the mityvac as shown in the video and it should work flawlessly. If you continue to suck air and the bubbles do not stop, then your pulling air in from somewhere and that needs to be addressed before moving forward. The entire bleeding process with the mityvac shouldn't take more then 60 seconds.

ok thanks for the info i will try it as soon as i get off work tomorrow.so i will be bleeding the system by placing the mighty vac in the resevoir hole,right?with the bleeder valve closed?

did you ever hook the mighty vac to the bleeder valve and try to do it that way?when i do that,i cant ever get the bubbles to stop.

**Hi-Po** · 05-09-2010, 07:13 PM

Correct. Bleeder valve closed. With the mityvac in the reservoir hole just as shown and described in the video.

Edit for your edit- no have not tried using the mityvac in the bleeder hole, don't think that would ever work honestly.

**Cutlass** · 05-10-2010, 03:29 AM

Originally Posted by Leeroyws6

did you ever hook the mighty vac to the bleeder valve and try to do it that way?when i do that,i cant ever get the bubbles to stop.

I have, didn't work for me either.

**Leeroyws6** · 05-10-2010, 04:14 PM

thanks all for the info.after approx 1.5 minutes of bleeding through the resevoir,the air is out,my clutch is back and i can shift freakin gears.

thanks cutlass for telling me to go through the resevoir.thanks HI-PO for the cool video.now i can put my tr6 plugs in,my new thermoquiet pads,and fill my nitrous bottle thanks again everyone.