Had Clutch slave cyl, clutch master cyl, and Clutch kit installed now I got problems

**7camaro7** · 11-05-2007, 06:02 PM

I don't have much faith in this mechanic... long story short. I eventually got my car back after getting my clutch slave & master installed and then the clutch kit.

now it drives much better.

I still have a problem though. When, say I get on it pretty hard in first and I may shift into 2nd... I'll slow down at a stop light and when I go to put it back into 1st gear it is really hard to put the shifter into 1st gear! It kinda does a hard clunk into 1st gear. The other gears are fine. I was having the problem more often before I installed a polyurethane tranny mount, but I still have the problem. I really don't know why it's doing this. I think if I needed to bleed the clutch again I'd have a problem with all the other gears as well. What's going on with my SS?

Thanks

**7camaro7** · 11-21-2007, 01:50 PM

**JonB** · 11-25-2007, 03:46 PM

Just posted this in another thread but think it may apply to you as well.

Q: Why is my transmission hard for me to put into 1st gear and reverse? It seams like all of the other gears are fine. What could my problem be?

A: Most of the time if the clutch is not releasing the first sign is 1st and reverse problems. Check the clutch to make sure it is not worn. Bleed your hydraulics and replace if more than 30,000 miles on the slave and 50,000 on the master. While most of the time this is a clutch related problem, check the fluid in the trans to make sure it is full. Transmission fluid should be replaced ever 10,000 miles or 1 year which ever comes first. You wouldn't let your engine go 10,000 miles without changing it!

I would look into the hydrolics, thats always a good starting point.

**7camaro7** · 11-25-2007, 07:03 PM

none of that stuff is working for me. I've got a brand spanking new hydrolics system as well as clutch. I'm taking it to the dealership in the morning.

thanks for the help though

**JonB** · 11-26-2007, 10:45 AM

Originally Posted by 7camaro7

none of that stuff is working for me. I've got a brand spanking new hydrolics system as well as clutch. I'm taking it to the dealership in the morning.

thanks for the help though

Just cause you have new hydrolics and a fresh flush don't mean jack. I find alot of people/shops don't bleed it properly or thourouly(sp). But the dealership should be able to fix it for a price. Keep us updated on what the dealer finds.

**7camaro7** · 11-26-2007, 10:59 AM

had it pressure bled like 3 or 4 days ago and it got slightly worse then got a little better. I'm back where I started. it's at the dealership right now. It was too wet to show them my problem today so I'll show them tomorrow when its dry

**rc74racer** · 11-26-2007, 12:54 PM

Do the drill mod. You should not be having problems getting into any gear regardless of how you drive it. I replaced my master cylinder a few weekends ago. I did the drill mod and bench bled it that was it. I had such great pedal feel I didn't even bother bleeding it again. I'll do that over the winter. I can drive my car however I want now and have no problems with putting it in any gear or losing pedal feel.

Did you replace the hydraulics with GM parts? If they used the cheap crap you will have problems.

**7camaro7** · 11-26-2007, 06:39 PM

its all gm

**Badd98CamaroSS** · 11-26-2007, 06:44 PM

Just so you know...even though a hydraulic clutch system is simple, it can take a while to bleed it down properly...be patient with it

**7camaro7** · 11-26-2007, 06:48 PM

it shouldn't take this long its been over a month. I think it is something else. I've had 2 different shops bleed it. I know its not rocket science but it seems like they'd have got it right by now. I just hate getting into my car and not being able to get on it worrying that when I have to put it in gear again it will be hard as hell and worrying about tearing something up. tomorrow I'll get a better idea of the problem, I'll keep you posted.

I think the jack (ass) hole who installed didn't do it right

**Badd98CamaroSS** · 11-26-2007, 07:03 PM

I'll put it this way Brother...I'm an ASE certified mech, and it took me 30 mins to bleed the clutch down on a POS 300ZX last week...I didn't think I was ever going to get a pedal. Have your mech double check the slave cylinder to make sure there isn't a leak somewhere.

**rc74racer** · 11-27-2007, 06:19 AM

If there is a leak it will be easy to tell just look at the fluid levels. I'd still do the drill mod if I were you. The restriction in the line to the master cylinder is ridiculous.

**Roastem** · 11-27-2007, 10:25 AM

Make sure you have proper fluid levels also. That Stainless line, if routed too close to the exhaust, will cause your clutch fluid to boil off and/or destabilize, causing problems.

You will need to make sure your clutch line has some type of heat shield around it if you are running long tubes.

The best time to do the drill mod is as soon as you break out the new cylinder. If it hasn't been done, then it needs to be.

A proper bleed will ensure you have good pedal action.

**7camaro7** · 11-27-2007, 08:21 PM

Originally Posted by Roastem

Make sure you have proper fluid levels also. That Stainless line, if routed too close to the exhaust, will cause your clutch fluid to boil off and/or destabilize, causing problems.

You will need to make sure your clutch line has some type of heat shield around it if you are running long tubes.

The best time to do the drill mod is as soon as you break out the new cylinder. If it hasn't been done, then it needs to be.

A proper bleed will ensure you have good pedal action.

asshole might've routed it too close to the exhaust.

Some funny shit though... today I went down to the dealership incognito style in my girls mustang and me and a mechanic took a ride in it. It was funny. He was at least 65 and I was hoping I wouldn't give him a heart attack with the power of my car. Luckily he was a hot rodder. I let it warm up pretty good then I cruise around and let it finish warming. I find a pretty nice straight away and I get it down to like 35 and then stomp it and what happens ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. I tried my hardest at least 4-5 times to show him my problem and it wouldn't do it. I'll look under it and check the routing of the hoses.

On a side note, I saw a brand spanking new c6 z06 up there and it was beautiful ... red... (not my color) I finished looking at it and looked at mine and mine still looks good. made me feel good the z06 didn't mine look like a pos.

**Loudz28** · 11-29-2007, 03:47 PM

Originally Posted by 7camaro7

asshole might've routed it too close to the exhaust.

Some funny shit though... today I went down to the dealership incognito style in my girls mustang and me and a mechanic took a ride in it. It was funny. He was at least 65 and I was hoping I wouldn't give him a heart attack with the power of my car. Luckily he was a hot rodder. I let it warm up pretty good then I cruise around and let it finish warming. I find a pretty nice straight away and I get it down to like 35 and then stomp it and what happens ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. I tried my hardest at least 4-5 times to show him my problem and it wouldn't do it. I'll look under it and check the routing of the hoses.

On a side note, I saw a brand spanking new c6 z06 up there and it was beautiful ... red... (not my color) I finished looking at it and looked at mine and mine still looks good. made me feel good the z06 didn't mine look like a pos.

ive been having similar issues with my car since having the same parts replaced, and i have the same issue with reproducing the problem. i figure ima jus break it, then itll be replaced under warranty.

bump for finding the cause tho, cuz i wanna kno 2!!

**7camaro7** · 11-29-2007, 06:46 PM

Originally Posted by Loudz28

ive been having similar issues with my car since having the same parts replaced, and i have the same issue with reproducing the problem. i figure ima jus break it, then itll be replaced under warranty.

bump for finding the cause tho, cuz i wanna kno 2!!

man, what the guy said about the fluid boiling from the long tube headers makes perfect sense!!! Fuckin' Eureka! hahahahaha sorry for cussin. You know how its winter time? That is probably the reason I can't reproduce my problem either! its colder outside and its not getting as hot. but I bet if it was the summer time then it would do it really bad. I'm going to get it taken care of asap. I'll get me some kind of sleeve for that line. thanks a lot guys!

**7camaro7** · 12-07-2007, 10:13 AM

found out yesterday that my brand new master cyl is defective. i bought a brand new mcleod one which is supposed to be top notch. i will be doing the drill mod to!

**Roastem** · 12-07-2007, 03:33 PM

When a brand new part is defective, that can be the hardest to solve. Its new, so that can't be it right? WRONG

That is why the old saying is "if it ain't broke don't fix it." You just might slap a new defective part in there.

Glad you figured it out without bleeding the ole wallet out.

**7camaro7** · 12-07-2007, 10:00 PM

Originally Posted by Roastem

When a brand new part is defective, that can be the hardest to solve. Its new, so that can't be it right? WRONG

That is why the old saying is "if it ain't broke don't fix it." You just might slap a new defective part in there.

Glad you figured it out without bleeding the ole wallet out.

believe me its been bleeding alright but not as bad as it could be... The clutch master cylinder that came in the car was bad... at least that's what A.hole said... anyway I paid for a brand new one and either he broke it during installation or it was defective from the get go... from what i hear, the mcleod one is THE best! I can't wait to get it on... I ordered it day before yesterday from thunder racing which is in Louisianna, and the next day it was already here in Tennessee. I should get it by Monday. Tuesday we'll do the drill mod and install it. I haven't been REALLY (REALLY) ripping gears in a while and I really can't wait to get back to it!!! If the drill mod really improves high rpm shifting like they say it does, then I'm going to love it!