Clutch problems. Slave cylinder?

**Redegal** · 04-02-2010, 06:26 PM

Hi, recently the car has been difficult to get into gear from a dead stop. It's doing this intermittently. Tonight, on my way home from work I was sitting at a stop light in first gear with the clutch pedal pushed in and it engaged and stalled after a few seconds. I guess it's bleeding off..?
I checked the master cylinder and it's full. Could it be the slave cylinder? The clutch itself seems fine.

Thanks in advance for any input, Mike

**cammed goat** · 04-02-2010, 06:34 PM

Possibly. Have you noticed any puddles underneath the car around the transmission area? Could be a throwout bearing issue as well.

**Spikito** · 04-02-2010, 06:47 PM

sounds like your slave is bypassing back into your master....may not notice a leak.

mine did that randomly....until it eventually started leaking...once it started leaking, it went out within just a few miles

**DaddySS** · 04-02-2010, 07:07 PM

If you haven't replaced the fluid, do that and bleed it. mYou'll then get a sense if it's just dirty fluid or the slave or master going bad.

**Redegal** · 04-03-2010, 03:51 AM

Thanks. No fluid on the ground yet. I just checked the MC and fluid seems like it's about 3/4 of the way up but it's black as night. Maybe I'll drain it bleed it to see what happens.

**Redegal** · 04-07-2010, 04:08 PM

OK so I decided to pull the trans. I got the new slave cylinder back in it and the trans back up. I'm ready to bleed it.
I don't want to contaminate the new part with the old fluid that's still in the MC. So my question is, can I just pump the pedal with the line unhooked and empty it into a can?

**Cutlass** · 04-07-2010, 05:05 PM

there is a check valve at the end of the master line. You need 2 people to do it. One to pump the pedal and one to push in the valve at the end of the line. process is similar to step 17 here

**Redegal** · 04-07-2010, 05:22 PM

Originally Posted by Cutlass

there is a check valve at the end of the master line. You need 2 people to do it. One to pump the pedal and one to push in the valve at the end of the line. process is similar to step 17 here

Terrific! Thanks

**Redegal** · 04-11-2010, 02:45 PM

OK....so I found out the hard way that it's not the slave cylinder causing my problems however the clutch works 100 percent better when it's working properly now that I replaced it and flushed the system with fresh DOT3. Oh well, a lot of time and effort for nothing I guess.

Anyhow, I'm still intermittently losing the pdeal and the clutch won't disengage when this happens. I'm thinking it's the master cylinder at this point. Is it a tough job and is there a better aftermarket one to go with?
Thanks

**Redegal** · 04-11-2010, 03:28 PM

Also, I'm pretty sure it has some kind of aftermarket clutch in it. Iv'e driven enough of these cars to know that the pedal is a lot stiffer and the clutch never slips.

**Cutlass** · 04-11-2010, 06:43 PM

The 2 masters I usually recommend are the GM one with the drill mod done or the Tick Performance

**Redegal** · 04-12-2010, 02:23 AM

Thanks. The GM one is only 100 bucks from Autozone and if I read your previous link right I should be able to do the drill mod myslef.

**Blue Thunder 42** · 04-12-2010, 08:00 AM

Originally Posted by Redegal

Thanks. No fluid on the ground yet. I just checked the MC and fluid seems like it's about 3/4 of the way up but it's black as night. Maybe I'll drain it bleed it to see what happens.

We should never let our clutch fluid get that dirty after the first time you'll keep on top of it. I'd suggest changing it out every 15-20k if you drive it hard.

**Redegal** · 04-12-2010, 08:06 AM

It's funny, I never gave the cltuch fluid much thought and never bothered to check it but from the looks of it I'm not surprised I have a component failure. And I guess you could safely catagorize how I drive it as "hard driving".

I got a MC on order from Autozone.

**rc74racer** · 04-12-2010, 10:52 AM

Originally Posted by Redegal

Thanks. The GM one is only 100 bucks from Autozone and if I read your previous link right I should be able to do the drill mod myslef.

I don't think autozone sells geniune GM products. The ones at your chain part stores with the rubber lines suck make sure it has a steel braided line running from the MC to Slave. The drill mod is easy just be sure to have it secure and straight when drilling.

**Redegal** · 04-12-2010, 12:13 PM

Originally Posted by rc74racer

I don't think autozone sells geniune GM products. The ones at your chain part stores with the rubber lines suck make sure it has a steel braided line running from the MC to Slave. The drill mod is easy just be sure to have it secure and straight when drilling.

OK thanks. I won't take if it doesn't have a steel braided line. There's a reason I'm sure, (and I'm guessing it has to do with heat) why GM put a steel braided line going to slave instead of using rubber.

**rc74racer** · 04-12-2010, 12:20 PM

Originally Posted by Redegal

OK thanks. I won't take if it doesn't have a steel braided line. There's a reason I'm sure, (and I'm guessing it has to do with heat) why GM put a steel braided line going to slave instead of using rubber.

Yes heat is an issue so is line expansion from pressure. You can find a good deal on one from ebay there was a dealer or two on there selling them. They come filled with fluid and bled.

**Redegal** · 04-12-2010, 12:28 PM

Ok thanks, I'll check it out.

**Redegal** · 04-12-2010, 04:29 PM

OK long story short, I spent a good five minutes on the phone this morning with Autozone while they took my credit card information and called the warehouse over ordering this master cylinder. They told me it would arrive at the store at 3:00pm. I stopped by tonight at 7:00p and they had absolutely NO record of my order. They didn't even have a record of my Camaro in the computer. This isn't the first time this happened. This store should be renamed "Twilightzone". I'm sure I called the right store too. Now I just have to make sure I didn't get billed.

Anyhow, I went online and found the same MC on ebay for about $62.00 + shipping. It doesn't include the braided steel line and (obviously) you have to bleed it which shouldn't be a big deal anyway.

McLeod and Tick Performance sell adjustable MCs that come with the steel line and are pre bled but they run around $300. I think that's more than what I need. It's a street driven car and I don't really have any intentions of racing it.

I think I'll just get the stock replacement (without the line) from ebay, bleed it and do the drill mod myself and be done with it. What do you think?

***SMWS6TA*** · 04-15-2010, 12:43 PM

^^^ That's what I'd do. Hope you have small hands and a helper. Replacing the MC is a bitch to say it politely. I drilled out the holes a little bigger on the firewall so I could have some play when bolting the MC back together.