Clutch pedal sticking to the floor.

**jrummi** · 08-30-2005, 01:03 AM

In the last couple of weeks I've had the clutch pedal stick to the floor. Its only done it in the morning when the car is cold. I go to back out of my garage and clutch gets stuck at the floor... I then can't shift to any gear after i get it in to neutral.... After I leave the engine running for a few minutes then turn the car off then on,,,, it will start working slowly getting some clutch pedal pressure back up.

When it intially got stuck I checked the reservoir and it was a little low,,, not near empty,,, maybe a bit more than half full... I refilled, and haven't noticed any leaking or low reservoir since.

Pedal always feels a bit weird and squishy now even when it works,,, when it doesn't you push it in and there is no resistance until its almost to the floor than it has normal resistance for 1 inch or so...

Is everyone pretty sure that the master/slave cyl. is the prob? The whole problem started about a week after I burnt the clutch pretty bad at a stop light,,, and that was really the first time I ever had burnt clutch smell.
Think its a clutch problem?

How hard is it to change the equipment? How much would a dealer charge?

Is this what I need to change?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

chevyz28 · 09-14-2005, 06:35 PM

i have the same prob only on full throttle. my guess would be that you need to change your master/slave due to low pressure probs. most expierence it though when the car is warm though. that is my best guess though. if you wanted you could probably do the drill mod to see if that will help out with the problem. it could help out the problem with not shifting in any gears when it is cold.

**'99 SLP#24** · 09-14-2005, 06:44 PM

What year is your car?

**FastAssZ** · 09-14-2005, 08:09 PM

i have the same prob, mine is a 99 z28

rays00ramair · 09-15-2005, 06:45 AM

i did a burnout and had it stick to floor.i replaced both master,slave.when i was in there i noticed the cluth was cooked so replaced with centerforce d/f.also a hays flywheel,centerforce was too proud of their flywheel.another check and i dont see this idea in here yet so here is my way of doing it.i drilled a 1.25 in. in my bell on the bottom so i could measure the clutch air gap.this was after clutch package install.was way too tight so i used a .030 shim behind the slave and got a .025 gap wich is good enough for my daily driver someprefer a little more but it works great.hope i helped

**SLP00blueSS** · 09-16-2005, 02:48 PM

I have the exact same problem with my 00 SS, shouldi change the slave and all that along with a clutch or how should i do it and is it something that needs to be done or at a dealer i have access to a hoist is it something i can do?

rays00ramair · 09-17-2005, 06:56 PM

i replaced mine as a way to fortify the weak stock clutch.i needed the 01and up slave for the centerforce clutch so had to replace the slave anyway.the master is cheap enough so i did that also.u may just have a hydraulic problem.i would replace them both but thats me.and yes i did it all myself,dont trust any ''mechanics ''around here.if u have any skills yes you can do it with hand tools.thats all i had and by the way can i use that lift?i gotta put in hopefully the last shim.i am a tranny removal master by now.the .020 gap i stated earlier is not enough.still hard to put in third when shifting at wide open.need to be closer to a .035-.050 gap.ill post back if it works .itl be a coupla weeks though.

**SLP00blueSS** · 09-18-2005, 04:31 PM

The hoist isn't in the ground yet, my buddy is building the barn as we speak should be a few weeks and it will be up but i'am sure it won't be a peblem if you don't already have it done yet. Yeah let me know what shim you use on that and i will use the same.

rays00ramair · 09-21-2005, 05:41 AM

well learned a few things about centerforce clutches.they are @.025-.032 thousands thicker than most others.can creat a loss of air gap and a slight drag on f/wheel even with the pedal to the floor.i am using a .030 shim now and have to put another .030 in it.thanks slp but i was kidding u too far any way to use lift.next clutch will be spec 3great people and actually know something.total idiots on the phones at centerforce.and those weight may become too heavy for the hydralics to push in a t high rpms my problem is now that.its like butter around town but when at redline wont hardl shift.and pedal get soft.i will replace the slave when i reshim in case its week but well see.

rays00ramair · 09-21-2005, 05:43 AM

maybe go with 200r4 if it dont work then ill never miss a gear

**WS6speedpaul** · 11-02-2005, 04:38 AM

I have a '99 WS6 with the exact same issues you described. It happen exactly the same way last week when it got cold here!!!

It appears to be the slave, but with 74k I'm going to replace the master & slave & clutch since you have to pull the T56 to get to the slave anyway.

Good luck...my work starts bright and early this Friday morning!

**GEARHEADNATE** · 11-04-2005, 09:28 PM

I have an 02 Z28 with 30k on it and a couple af months ago the clutch pedal stuck to the floor and I took it to the dealer cause it still has a warrenty and they replaced the clutch master cylinder and the plate cylinder and sence they had the trans out I had them put in a centerforce dual friction and a light weight fly wheel at no extra labor cost.

**BowTied** · 11-11-2005, 03:08 PM

Let me chime in as well. Mine too! 99 SS! No way I'm screwing with it without a lift...my driveway is gravel...so that shit ain't happening. I could take it to a friends house but that is 75 miles. And I broke the shifter when I tried to jam it in gear when this first happened, so I'm a bit nervous to go that far!

The lasty owner put a short shifter in it and I don't think it had an 1/8 inch of steel at the drill holes.

mdp · 11-13-2005, 03:40 PM

Yup, same thing happened to me. Dealer replaced a 'clutch actuator', problem was gone.

sonnyred · 11-13-2005, 06:57 PM

whats a clutch actuator? Do you mean the master or slave? My clutch pedal got stuck half way up couple of times and was able to put my foot under and pull it up to get it working.

**BowTied** · 11-14-2005, 03:07 PM

I just pulled my clutch pedal out...worked fine after. I'm stupid, I forgot that I did that a couple of weeks ago. But I was going down the Interstate when I did it last time, but it felt a little different then. I was somehow too stupid to connect the 2.

But I'm still wondering if I should plan on changing the slave and master anyway?

From the posts here it seems like its coming...maybe hard and fast!

**BowTied** · 11-14-2005, 03:11 PM

By the way. It would cost me $390 to get the master and slave changed at my local dealer.

sonnyred · 11-14-2005, 03:48 PM

Originally Posted by BowTied

By the way. It would cost me $390 to get the master and slave changed at my local dealer.

INSTALLUNIVERSITY.COM HAS A SITE WHERE THEY EXPLAIN THE PROCEDEDURE AND THE DRILL MOD. I HAVE A SPARE CAR SO WHAT HELL I'LL DO MYSELF.

sonnyred · 11-14-2005, 04:47 PM

Not a bad price concidering parts and labor. make sure they do the drill mod.

**knight721** · 02-20-2010, 05:59 PM

I just got my car back today.
Like most of you my pedal was getting stuck to the floor, It was hart to shift to 1st or reverse and when it did it was almost impossible to get it out of gear. I changed the fluid and bleed the system. That seem to help a little but the pedal still got stuck to the floor. I finally had some cash to put a ZOOM stage 2 clutch, changed the slave and master cylinder. now my car feels better than new. The clutch is a little stiff, but it shift gears flowlessly. I have a great mechanic who charged me $675 for replacing all my parts. He showed me my old parts and yes, the slave cylinder was tottally shot. He told me from the begining that it was the Slave cylinder, but that I should change the master cylinder as well since they operate in conjuction. Changing the cluth was not necessary but since I already bought it a year ago he replaced it as well. I wish I had it done a lot sooner.
Hopefully this will help you.