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Thread: Clutch needed! Which one
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05-30-2015, 08:28 AM #1
- Join Date
- May 2015
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- ny
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- 3
black- 2002 TA WS6
Clutch needed! Which one
So I have about 500 engine HP. The car (02WS6) dyno'd 422 RWHP. I have a RAM clutch in it now but have had slippage issues. The car is recintly out of storage and the clutch is slipping like crazy. I have a friend of a friend who works at a performance shop who is looking at it now. He is saying to put a OEM clutch back into it. Personally I'd rather not as I'm looking to do more mods in the future and feel like it's just gonna waste time and money. What clutch should I go with? I'm pretty pissed at the ram clutch ($400), they were saying the throw out bearing is adjustable and May cause Problems in the future. Maybe not problems but may need adjustment and to do so I'd need to drop the transmission. So do I replace the clutch and if so with what one? Sorry I'm just trying to make a quick post cause the car is with them now and need to know what to do... Thanks!!
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05-30-2015, 08:45 AM #2
- Join Date
- May 2013
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- Nashville, TN
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- 1,434
Black / White- '00 T/A M6/'19 Hemi Truck
Last edited by theorangeguy; 05-30-2015 at 10:16 AM.
2000 Black TA M6 - LT's, ORY, UMI Short Stick, TT2's, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Braided Lines, and Tuned by Vengeance SCCA and Car Show Approved
2019 Ram 1500 Crew Cab Laramie Limited
2015 Ram 1500 Crew Cab Sport Premium Hemi - Sold
2010 Hemi Crew Cab Sport Premium - Tuner and HID's - Sold
06 Quad Cab HHHHemi - Sold
99 Hugger Orange Camaro - Sold
97 Camaro - Sold
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05-30-2015, 11:40 AM #3
I have a Spec Stage 3+ that's rated for 800 ft-lb of torque and have been running it for close to 6 years now and I'm at over 500rwhp in a Procharged Camaro. Zero issues and the pedal feels close to stock.
Boost gets you laid, unless your name is Jon.
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05-30-2015, 12:50 PM #4
- Join Date
- Jan 2015
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- GA
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- 1
I have a monster twin disk in my c5z, it's got like 5k on it now, it's not the cheapest option but I love the clutch and it's held well through the track days and the clutch dumps. Plus the clutch feel is perfect. Right now I'm making 450 and 410 at the wheels but I think there rated around 800 and there designed to be dumped
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05-30-2015, 07:08 PM #5
- Join Date
- Jun 2011
- Location
- Branchville, NJ
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- 3,111
Silver & Blue- 02 Camaro SS, 04 GTO
When you get into the 500 hp range you should really think about a twin disc setup. It may cost a few more dollars but it will be worth it in the long run.
My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k
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05-30-2015, 07:34 PM #6
I have a centerforce D7X street/ strip clutch which is equivalent to a stage 3 racing clutch. Mines rated to handle 1500 hp and it's not a pain to drive in traffic. I would recommend it personally
2000 Jet Black M6 Trans Am aka Kitte:
SLP lid, cai kit, smooth bellows; Hawks HPS pads/slotted rotors; Centerforce D7X street/strip clutch; DDM HID conversion; Black w/ metal lip C5 Z06 replica 17x9.5 rims; free ram air mod; Bilstein HD shocks; LTs and ORY; Magnaflow quadtip catback
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05-30-2015, 07:47 PM #7
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Location
- Greensboro, NC
- Age
- 39
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- 1,335
Pewter- 2002 Trans Am WS6 M6
At the least something like a monster stage 2 is in order. The LS7 like said before is what is used as a stock replacement now. Great for stock or close to stock cars but with what your putting down you definitely need to go aftermarket.
Mods - Lid, Skip Shift Eliminator, MGW shifter, UMI SFCs, Founders Lower Control Arms, Founders Panhard Bar, Founders Adj. Torque Arm, UMI Torque arm mount, MWC Drive shaft safety loop, KONI Yellows, Strano Springs, Strano Sway bars, UMI Upper and lower A Arms, 160 thermostat, TSP headers and TSP true duals Monster stage 2 clutch, racetronix fuel pump, Strange S60 rear axle and tune by Frost.
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05-31-2015, 05:40 AM #8
Some of the clutches being recommended in here are of the finger style for the clutch disk.
I would NOT recommend that type. I would get a full surface.
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06-01-2015, 06:51 AM #9
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
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- Florida Man Status Acheivement
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- 11,764
Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
<<Running Monster stg4 on mine.
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f7/my-6-liter-build-174257/
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f8/my-8-8-rear-build-165553/
6.0L Block - Forged 403ci , Polluter Stg3 Cam, FAST 102mm Intake, NW102 TB, MSD wires, NGK TR6 plugs, Truck Coil Packs, LS3 Fuel Injectors, CC Pacesetter LT Headers, TS&P ORY, QTP e-Cutout, Magnaflow Muffler, 104mm Air Lid & Line Lock, Catch Can, Stage 2 T56 w/Viper shaft, PRO 5.0 Shifter, Tick MC, SPEC Stg3+ Clutch, QT SFI BH, MWC DSL, Full UMI Performance Suspension, Belstein Shocks, Hotchkis Springs (1" Drop), YR1 Snowflake Wheels wrapped in NT555 tires & Custom Fab Ford 8.8 rear w/Wavetrac Diff 3.73 Yukon Gears, WSQ Hood, 3"CM Strange Eng Drive Shaft.
00 FB Vert - Stock
78 FB - Just getting started......
Horsepower never lies, but is often lied about!
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06-03-2015, 08:20 AM #10
- Join Date
- May 2015
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- ny
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- 3
black- 2002 TA WS6
Thanks for the input! I still havent had the time to finish my research, but what ive come up with so far is a twin disk as that will hold more HP and maintain a easier clutch feel. It seems like a lot of people are happy with the monsters, so I'll start the research there. Actually I think im gonna have someone else take a look and see if its the RAM clutch that I have in it now, or just the flywheel (that's causing my issues)..
Anyway thanks again!
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06-04-2015, 03:33 AM #11
Are you using the stock clutch master cylinder? I have heard some people having issue's with them. Just a thought.
1998 Pontiac TA, stock heads, FAST 90, FAST 90 TB, FLP LT, off road y-pipe with cat delete, flow master muffler, comp cams 54-457-11 223/231-610/617-112 LSA, Pro charger D1SC with FMIC @ 8psi, FROST tune, VIG 3200 stall, built 4l60e, snow meth kit, MOSER 12 bolt 373 gears, Derale 13900 trans cooler.
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06-04-2015, 03:38 AM #12
Also, since it just came out of storage, i'm wondering if some moisture build up got on the flywheel causing some rust? If you have ever noticed when it rains hard and you don't drive your car for a week or so, some rust build will build up on the rotors, and the brakes wont work for nothing until the slight rust is worn off. A few hard stops and the rust is gone. Dunno if it's even possible to get moisture onto the flywheel or not, but again, just another thought.
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06-04-2015, 12:27 PM #13
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06-04-2015, 01:00 PM #14
Yup you can get a rusty flywheel with just moisture in the air. I had a car sitting inside a garage for 30+ years and the clutch disc was literally stuck to the flywheel from corrosion and wouldn't release I had to use some WD40 and a screw driver working around it to eventually pop it loose. Worked just fine afterwards, maybe I should use the darn thing more often, lol. The other solution was one of the best things I ever did......getting the hell outta that muggy humid climate and planting my but in the dry desert
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07-06-2015, 09:54 AM #15
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- Jun 2015
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- Minnesota
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- 30
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- 1
Monster stage 2
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