Results 1 to 14 of 14
Thread: Anything else before rebuild?
-
03-19-2011, 07:45 AM #1
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- South Carolina
- Posts
- 36
Black- 98 T/A
Anything else before rebuild?
Here is a little back story on the car. When I bought it it was very hard, if not impossible to get into 1st or reverse. Shifting at high RPM was also very difficult and if I could do it it would grind. Normal driving wasn't the greatest either. Very notchy and gave a little resistance. Also the clutch engages pretty close to the floor. I was told it had an after-market clutch, but I forgot which. Monster maybe? IDK So heres what I've done...
I found a cheap ebay knock off short shifter in the trans, so I replaced it with a Pro 5.0, and also flushed the hydros b/c the fluid was BLACK! That made a BIG difference. Reverse is much easier, normal shifting felt better, first was still hard to get into but it was easier, and high RPM shifting was easier, but would still grind and wasn't that easy. I figured I'd change the trans fluid to see if that would help. Drained out the old which really didn't look that bad, but wasn't great. When I went to fill it it took just under 4 qts before it started seeping out. I figure it took about 3 & 7/8 qts. I used Advance Auto Dex III btw. That seemed to make it worse and better. At high RPMs it goes into gear easier, but grinds worse. So last night I pulled the M/C to do the drill mod. Got everything out and apart and knew right away it had already been done. Stuck a 1/8 bit in the end and it went in with no resistance. So I put it back together and bench bled it. A little side note here. When I bled the system before I did it for about a half hour and thought I had to have gotten all the old fluid out...Yeah, not even close. While bench bleeding the M/C I probably put at least the same amount I did before through it before it came out clean. And I drained the SS hose before I started! Anyway, I finished it back up and installed it. Took it for a quick spin and it felt the exact same. No improvement which I really didn't expect after seeing the mod had already been done.
Anything else anyone can think of I can try before pulling the it and having it rebuilt? I'm out of ideas.
-
03-19-2011, 07:52 AM #2
- Join Date
- Oct 2009
- Location
- The Woodlands/spring/houston
- Posts
- 2,142
pewter- 99 trans am
does it feel like the clutch isnt working properly? perhaps the slave cylinder not actin right?
-
03-19-2011, 01:21 PM #3
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- South Carolina
- Posts
- 36
Black- 98 T/A
It's hard to say honestly. This is the first F body I've ever owned. I and a 350z before and nothing about those two cars fells the same. lol
-
03-19-2011, 05:05 PM #4
I have this same problem with my car. I've replaced the clutch and slave. I've lost third gear now when I tried a high RPM shift into third. I had "resistance" going into all gears before the new clutch and slave and still have the same issue. I'm at the point where I'm looking for another transmission to rebuild because I can't have any downtime as the car is my daily driver. I know the synchros are toast in this transmission. I guess the only stuff to replace at this point are the master cylinder and rebuilding the tranny.
I've had inconsistent pedal feel the entire time I've had my car. I should have just replaced the master when I did everything else.
Anyway, hope this helps you rule out the slave.
-
03-19-2011, 05:08 PM #5
Another thing to think about with these cars is to keep the fluid clean. I use a syringe every couple weeks to replace the fluid in the master cylinder cup. Haven't noticed any improvement in shifting performance though.
-
03-19-2011, 07:12 PM #6
Clutch still grabbing right off the floor??
I had this issue with my wifes car after a clutch install. Everything was new, but it drove so poorly, very hard to shift, the clutch just wasn't coming off the flywheel enough to stop or even slow the input shaft from spinning, very hard to shift gears that way. My wife wouldn't even drive it.
One easy way to tell, park the car on flat ground. Push the clutch down and stick it in first gear. Rev the engine to 2-3,000 rpm and hold it there with the clutch pushed in. If the car tries to creep even the slightest bit, your disc isn't releasing far enough off the flywheel.
I switched over to an adjustable master cylinder so I could set the pedal where "I" wanted the clutch to grab. I prefer the clutch to grab closer to the top of pedal travel rather than the bottom. This pulls the clutch far enough off the flywheel and made shifting (especially high rpm shifting) so much easier. Just something to check.
-
03-20-2011, 08:41 AM #7
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- South Carolina
- Posts
- 36
Black- 98 T/A
Thanks Tpi and Jones. I've been debating getting the Tick m/c. Guess I could try that, then if that's not it, then go with th rebuild. fml
-
03-28-2011, 06:34 PM #8
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- South Carolina
- Posts
- 36
Black- 98 T/A
M/C will be here tomorrow. If this doesn't do it, trans will come out in the next few weeks.
-
04-12-2011, 07:15 AM #9
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- South Carolina
- Posts
- 36
Black- 98 T/A
Installed the new M/C and wow....what a difference. Wish I would have done this first.
-
04-12-2011, 07:19 AM #10
-
04-15-2011, 04:46 PM #11
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- South Carolina
- Posts
- 36
Black- 98 T/A
Tick.
-
05-11-2011, 12:30 PM #12
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Location
- Baltmore, MD
- Age
- 51
- Posts
- 3
Artic White- 1998 Formula WS6
RollOut how hard was it to replace your stock MC with the Tick unit?
How long did it take you?
-
05-13-2011, 06:11 PM #13
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- South Carolina
- Posts
- 36
Black- 98 T/A
PITA!!!
Loosen the brake booster bolts so it can move around a little to give you some room. I had to install it twice b/c my first was defective. The first time it took me about 2 hours. The second time about 45 mins.
-
05-13-2011, 07:54 PM #14
[QUOTE=Firebirdjones;2601405]Clutch still grabbing right off the floor??
I had this issue with my wifes car after a clutch install. Everything was new, but it drove so poorly, very hard to shift, the clutch just wasn't coming off the flywheel enough to stop or even slow the input shaft from spinning, very hard to shift gears that way. My wife wouldn't even drive it.
One easy way to tell, park the car on flat ground. Push the clutch down and stick it in first gear. Rev the engine to 2-3,000 rpm and hold it there with the clutch pushed in. If the car tries to creep even the slightest bit, your disc isn't releasing far enough off the flywheel.QUOTE]
I have this EXACT same problem. Uggh!
Thread Information
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Similar Threads
-
Question: LS1 Rebuild
By SilentTrouble in forum Firebird / WS6Replies: 10Last Post: 11-21-2011, 02:51 PM -
rebuild it
By rsg98Z28 in forum Manual TransmissionReplies: 1Last Post: 10-09-2009, 09:22 PM -
Rebuild or not rebuild
By JwMonE99 in forum General HelpReplies: 10Last Post: 09-15-2008, 06:57 AM -
Question: T56 rebuild...
By hec33 in forum Manual TransmissionReplies: 0Last Post: 09-03-2008, 04:57 PM -
T56 Rebuild
By ChrisH in forum Southern MembersReplies: 1Last Post: 01-11-2007, 04:30 PM
Bookmarks