Yank 3200 is locking to early in the rpms

[freaky57fast]

hey I just put a yank 3200 converter on my ws6 with 3.73s and the converter is locking up at around 2600. is there an issue in my tuning or should I get a hold of yank to see if the converter is messed up? anyone else have an issue like this before the car was fully tuned?

[2002ssslp]

Do the right thing and call Yank. They built it so they should know how to fix the problem. JMO

[Firebirdjones]

Still running a stock tune or more specifically....stock converter lockup tables?

I ask because as far as I know, that converter will only lock when the computer tells it to, and is directly related to throttle angle and speed (not rpm per say)

A stock tune at light throttle can command a converter to lock as early as 32-34 mph once the trans is in high gear, so that's not unusual. Works just fine that way if you still run a stock camshaft.

Only time converter locking may need to be tweaked in the tune is with larger camshafts to prevent surging.

For example, I prefered the stock lockup tables in my tune when I was running a stock camshaft. I don't need the converter flashing up to 3500 rpms at 40+ mph when I'm just trying to moderately excellerate, that just eats gas and creates more tranny heat that is unnecessary. The sooner it locked the better when I was just putting around town. I still got 20 mpg city driving this way.

[freaky57fast]

Still running a stock tune or more specifically....stock converter lockup tables?

I ask because as far as I know, that converter will only lock when the computer tells it to, and is directly related to throttle angle and speed (not rpm per say)

A stock tune at light throttle can command a converter to lock as early as 32-34 mph once the trans is in high gear, so that's not unusual. Works just fine that way if you still run a stock camshaft.

Only time converter locking may need to be tweaked in the tune is with larger camshafts to prevent surging.

For example, I prefered the stock lockup tables in my tune when I was running a stock camshaft. I don't need the converter flashing up to 3500 rpms at 40+ mph when I'm just trying to moderately excellerate, that just eats gas and creates more tranny heat that is unnecessary. The sooner it locked the better when I was just putting around town. I still got 20 mpg city driving this way.

Excellent sir you just answer my question the tables haven't been messed with yet test and tune is Sunday I didn't think the computer tells it when to lock. I'm a dumb ass.

[Firebirdjones]

Excellent sir you just answer my question the tables haven't been messed with yet test and tune is Sunday I didn't think the computer tells it when to lock. I'm a dumb ass.

Not at all. What you have there is normal with a stock tune while driving around at part throttle. It won't affect you at all under WOT conditions. Enjoy that test and tune session

[freaky57fast]

Got with my tuner. He fixed part of the issue. Car still breaks the tires loose at a stand still around 2000rpms am I missing something? I have big sticky nittos is the converter too tight?

[Firebirdjones]

What's wrong with breaking the tires loose? Is there something specific you are looking for or trying to do?

Nitto's aren't the stickiest tire out there, but they do last longer (mileage) than most other drag radials on the market. I could never 60 foot as well on them as I did on BFG drag radials, and even better on MT's. Depends on what you want out of a tire.

[0rion]

I thought that's what you were describing.......brake stall and not lock up speed.


See if this helps....taken from Yank's site.

3. Flash stall is the maximum your engine's torque can stall a torque converter. In essence flash stall and full stall are nearly identical. If you had a transbrake, you could find full stall by putting your foot to the floor and reading your tach. For argument sake, let's say we're testing a 3500 stall Yank ST 3500. If you had a transbrake, you would see around 3500 rpms. If your motor was at idle and then you suddenly floored the throttle, you might see slightly more (maybe 100 rpm more) stall for a half second as the momentum of the motor's internals "flashed" the converter a small bit above its true stall rating. Brake stall, on the other hand is a very subjective thing. For most, it's the highest stall you can achieve before your tires spin. This varies greatly based on many factors: Traction, gearing, brake clamping force, and engine torque. With a ST3500, I may only be able to get 2200rpm "brake stall" on the street with street tires...any higher rpm and the motor torque would overwhelm the tires. But if I was at the track with racing slicks on the starting line, I might be able to get 3200 brake stall before the motor torque overwhelmed the tires. See...brake stall is very subjective. Yank rates their converters based on their intended application. A ST 3500 will stall 3500 rpms in a stock LS1. If you had a 422 and wanted a ST 3500, the converter you received would still stall 3500 because it would be built around the torque of a 422, not a stock displacement LS1. Yank checks the stall of their converters and their competitors by using either a trasmission dyno or a "tranny tricker" in the vehicle tested. With the tranny tricker, you can place the vehicle in 2nd or 3rd gear and stab the throttle to the floor...making it easy to read both flash stall and full stall.

[pajeff02]

^^ Good info.

[0rion]

at the track on drag radials I can only get my fuddle to stall to about 2200-2300 before it starts trying to push through the brakes. I might be able to push it a little further but have never really tried for fear of pushing through the light or breaking the tires loose so I just get it to that point where it wants to start pushing and launch from there.